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WHAT MARJORIE SAW ABROAD 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 



BY 

MRS. DAVID GAMBLE MURRELL 

Author of The White Castle of Louisiana 




New York and Washington 

THE NEALE PUBLISHING COMPANY 

.1906 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

OCT 31 1906 

^ Copyrietit Er 

Oii.Al: . 

CLASS A XXc.i No 



5!»< ^ 






Copyright, 1906, by 
COKNELIA RANDOLPH MURRELL 



^ 



^ 



I dedicate this hooh to tHose less for- 
tunate, with the hope that its contents 
will prove a source of enjoyment hy 
bringing, in a measure, the pleasures 
described therein to their door. 



INTRODUCTION 

This little volume is only to relate wliat trav- 
elers will be apt to enjoy most, the folklore and 
a pleasant trip — a sort of help to those seeking 
information for which they might blunder 
around, and waste time, in not knowing what 
was worth while. 

Guide-books are plentiful, and useful, but it 
is a fine idea to have a general knowledge be- 
forehand; for one is often too tired, when trav- 
eling, too excited or impatient to dive down into 
the intricacies of such books more than super- 
ficially at the right time, and does not care to 
be burdened with more than what one can just 
get along with. 

Thinking of this, I wondered if tourists did 
not want a light book they could read at leisure 
before starting and gather some idea as to what 
they wanted most to see ; or if those who never 
intended going, from fear of the ocean or lack 
of means, did not wish a something which could 
keep them in touch with the outside world. 

Yet it is not intended for a guide-book — only 
a forerunner. Guide-books can be purchased 
along the way and referred to, but are read to 
better advantage later in quiet and leisure, 

7 



8 Introduction 

wlnich is almost equal to taking a second trip in 
tlie pleasure the revival imparts. 

It might be well for the youth of our schools 
to use or read this book along with their studies. 
It would familiarize them with the main parts 
of the Old World and bear rich fruit later in 
life if such a trip be taken. 

My best apology for it is the kindness with 
which my neighbors listened to my tale of won- 
ders ; they being more than usually enlightened ; 
always struggling to know the latest and best, 
which means progress. I felt as if it might 
please others, especially those who remain at 
home, and help those who know not the ropes 
when setting out, having to pick and choose the 
best — ^in the haste of sightseeing — from the 
sumptuous dish set before them. 

The Authoe. 



WHAT MAEJOEIE SAW ABROAD 



CHAPTER I 

''It is utterly impossible!" shouted Ms Maj- 
esty. ^ ^ It can 't be done ! ' ' 

''Why can't it?" inquired the Countess, 
mildly. 

** Because my business will suffer, and I have 
not the money!" said he, crossly. 

'^Make up your mind and the money will 
come," persisted she. 

No answer but a grunt. 

** Your health will suffer and injure your busi- 
ness, ' ' pleaded she. 

**My health is not so bad," he growled. 

''You have been ill at times for six months, 
and each time you have had a harder spell," 
said she. 

"I'll have to borrow the money," said he, 
' ' and it will take four or five years to pay it 
back." 

The Countess smiled to herself. She knew he 
had plenty of property. She knew no good busi- 
ness man ever kept a lot of cash lying around 
idle, and what if he did borrow? She also knew 
he made enough every year to go for the whole 
summer if he would quit speculating. He took 
a hand in every enterprise which came along, 

11 



12 What Marjorie Saw ^hroad 

just for tHe excitement of it, sHe sometimes 
thonght. Hoping to Mt a Hundred thousand — 
lie thought — or something which might lead up 
to it. 

Her efforts to get him off seeming futile, as 
soon as he got out of the way she sat down and 
wrote to the Princess and suggested a visit- 
suggested numerous ways, Delilah-like, though 
in a better cause, by which she and the Princess 
could prevail upon him to take the step — ^to go 
abroad. !^ ; ' 

The Princess had been abroad, in fact, had 
lived in the charming atmosphere of Italy and 
other foreign countries for many months, and 
was fully capable of assisting the Countess in 
depicting all the beauties and advantages of 
such a trip, besides the benefit of rest on the 
ship and the complete change. 

The Countess, on the other hand, had never 
been abroad, but had read enough to converse 
astonishingly on the subject; and, knowing his 
Majesty had great love for the beautiful and a 
high appreciation of the excellencies of life, she 
took heart and hoped to arrange matters to suit 
herself. 

So the Princess came. With her blandish- 
ments, abetted by the Countess, she had the 
dear man actually consenting to leave his busi- 
ness for four months to take a pleasure trip. Ah ! 
that was success on Her part and that of the 
Countess. 

When Marjorie, their only child, returned 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 13 

from school for vacation, she was told to help 
the household get ready for the trip. 

Meantime, the Princess had gone home to in- 
form her family of the determination, and while 
they are packing their trmiks and filling the 
valises and hand-bags with every conceivable 
article for their comfort, we have a chance to 
learn something about this quartette just about 
to visit the Old World. 

His Majesty is by no means a king, as his title 
implies. He is a plain American citizen, with 
a long tail of worthy ancestors, however, of 
whom he knew, but — unlike many — of whom he 
never boasted. Still, he had the manner of a 
lord and the presence of a somebody, always 
taking the lead in conversation and otherwise, 
and does not exactly know how it came about, 
but he was called his Majesty by the family; not 
in ridicule, nor in sarcasm, but the term seemed 
to fit, and, as I do not wish to give his real name, 
I shall call him this throughout the book. 

Strange to say, the Countess was his Majes- 
ty's wife, and yet retained her title. It was in 
this way: She always had many pretensions to 
beauty, and she had dreams for the future when 
young; for her head was held high, though her 
heart was good; her bearing, though natural, 
showed pride ; and her clothes fitted her well, she 
wearing the finest at all times which could be 
bought, if it did not exceed the limit of her 
purse. She was honest. And in her family some 



14 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

member remarked that she ought to be * ^ a coun- 
tess''; she held herself so. From that day to 
this the Countess she was. 

When she met his Majesty her world said, 
^* Here's a mate for the Countess"; and so it 
turned out, and they seemed happy forever 
after, as the folks in the fairy tale. 

Now, the Princess was a dear friend of the 
Countess ; in fact, they were once schoolmates — 
and every one knows what that means. It was 
no more than natural that she should help her 
friend out. 

The Princess was a Northern woman, but few 
would suspect it. Her father and many of her 
relations had known the Countess 's father, who 
lived in the extreme South of the United States. 
Constant intercourse had rubbed off all the dis- 
tinction of Northern and Southern, and they 
seemed like one family, so united were they. 
The Princess was some years younger than the 
Countess, but any girl who lays claim to any 
attractions at all will understand how at board- 
ing-school a younger girl admires an older, mak- 
ing the latter an idol to follow and worship; 
thus it was with the Princess. And the Countess 
returned the aif ection warmly, but not until she 
was fully developed did the Countess begin to 
call her ^* Princess." The name was given her 
by another friend as well as the Countess — 
neither knowing the other had done so. And she 
had the manner and tastes of a Princess. A 
handsome lass, the Princess, with wonderful 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 15 

sweetness and magnetism, a gay manner and a 
brave heart. She also loved the beautiful, and 
her gowns were a pleasure to see. 

Now Marjorie said, for the sake of keeping 
up the delusion, they ought to give her a title, 
or strangers might imagine she was the maid. 
The Countess chuckled, for with all her elegance 
she had a merry temper. The beautiful, win- 
some, arrogant Marjorie taken for a maid! She 
was more like a ripe, rosy, luscious peach of the 
purest quality than anything she could think of 
at that time. But Marjorie was her daughter — 
hers and his Majesty's — and mothers are par- 
tial, of course. 

Marjorie was not altogether enthused at go- 
ing abroad. She thought she ought to wait till 
she was out of school, but made no demur, as 
she was afraid it might be her only chance ; so 
she went to work with a will. She had a trunk ; 
the Countess and his Majesty had one together; 
then there were two steamer trunks — one his 
Majesty and the Countess shared together, and 
one for Marjorie. The Countess had been grad- 
ually getting ready for several months, hoping 
the tide would turn her way, and if it did not, 
she could use all she had acquired at home, she 
argued with herself, putting off the ship outfit 
till the taking of the trip was settled. Each had 
a valise and a hand-bag of good, stout leather. 
Shawls, heavy clothes (for the northern route 
is cold) , light rubbers, second-best suits, pillows 
and such articles were put in the steamer trunks, 



16 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

getting the last in New York, where they were 
for several days before leaving. In the valises 
the ladies had any number of shirtwaists of all 
thicknesses ; a nice traveling heavy suit ; a nice 
traveling black silk suit with low waist and over- 
skirt to match, and other embellishments for 
evening; a handsome afternoon waist to wear 
with the black silk skirt, and all the little addi- 
tions, particularly neck ribbons and ties, which 
make ladies so attractive, as well as the other 
necessary clothes. Perhaps you will say, *^0h, 
my, what a lot to put in one valise ! ' ' But try it. 
It gives one a great deal of comfort, going from 
place to place, and the trunks need not be car- 
ried to every point. 

The Countess thought it would be a good idea 
to put in one hand-bag all the medicines and 
whisky (needed in traveling), with the drinking- 
cup and other articles it would not hurt to get 
wet should the contents spill out. 

Marjorie dressed the camphor, the pepper- 
mint, the antiseptic — she had heard there were 
fleas and tarantulas in Italy, but did not see one 
— and other bottles in gingham to keep them 
from cracking if they happened to get all in a 
bunch in the bag, putting them as erect as pos- 
sible, steadying them with washrags (so need- 
ful), after writing in ink the name of each on 
the outside and seeing that good stoppers with 
handles had been put in. It is worth while say- 
ing that this bag was quite useful all along. 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 17 

She had embroidered her father's crest in 
gold in a large design upon his black satin ship 
pillow, and her mother's in appropriate colors 
on her satin pillow, when his Majesty came 
along and said he had no idea of making any 
such display — he was going as an American 
citizen. So Marjorie had to buy more black 
satin, making a cushion of the crested pieces 
and leaving it at home, where her father said 
was the proper place for it. On the new pieces 
she worked the monogram of each, and the pil- 
lows looked very nice. She had never liked to 
lounge much, and had made none for herself, 
of which she was very glad, as her father seemed 
comfortable without any, and she used his, 
which rested the hollow of her back when read- 
ing in the stiff deck chairs, and there were only 
two to look after. 

A hat she fortunately brought with her, 
turned up behind, she found most comfortable 
in the reclining position. Marjorie had been 
carefully bred, but she was not straight-laced. 
She did not consult, but she consulted with her 
parents. She had a will and opinions of her 
own, and had never been ^^sat down on," as the 
saying is, his Majesty and the Countess meet- 
ing her youthful and inexperienced suggestions 
as though they were worthy of consideration, 
drawing her out and leading her on, never ridi- 
culing or looking shocked, though he was pretty 
decided in his ideas of right and wrong, and 
she — ^no power on earth could get her to be un- 



18 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

true. All were of the English Church, as their 
forefathers had been, and had the faith well 
grounded in. 

At the age of eleven Marjorie once had the 
rashness to say in her parents^ presence that 
there were so many different kinds of religions, 
and so few seemed to carry out any of them, 
that one hardly knew what to believe, and that 
she would study out the Christ and try to be led 
by Him whom every one could but admit had 
followed out His own fine line of conduct. This 
resolve, this awakening to the ways of the world, 
astonished her parents. Marjorie was so merry 
all the time that no one imagined such germs 
were working in her brain. She was so ambi- 
tious, too, and inherited to a great extent her 
mother's taste in dress. After she once got her 
clothes on she never thought of them. They fell 
naturally and gracefully around her, giving her 
a chic look which pleased every one; but if she 
found a beggar entertaining she would not mind 
his clothes. 

She laid great stress on the heart and intel- 
lect, which are good to have sometimes in abun- 
dance, but which do not often run together in 
one body, or always bring happiness to the indi- 
viduals possessing them. This superiority over 
others increases the obligations to those less 
gifted. 

However, we like some for their mental ca- 
pacity, and others for their amiable qualities — 
thus runs the world away — ^until we find some 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 19 

with both attributes well blended. Presto ! the 
world looks brighter while they are with us, life 
is worth living ; we awake early in the morning 
and follow our daily vocations with cheerful- 
ness ; we have an object in life, a mutual inter- 
est, and it seems so necessary to put sensible 
boys and girls where they can find many com- 
panions and single out congenial ones for their 
intimates — it develops, it broadens, it strength- 
ens, it cheers. 

Marjorie had lived in the suburbs of a large 
Southern city, but she was not confined to this. 
Since her early childhood she had gone all over 
the United States with her parents on their sum- 
mer trips — even to Mexico and Canada in her 
later years — and altogether was very well in- 
formed and a very nice child. She was sixteen, 
but did not wear her hair in a plait down her 
back ; she wore it pompadour, with a curly mist 
on her brow, and twisted in a chatelaine behind. 
Southern girls mature early, and she was too 
tall for the plait coiffure. 

The Princess knew the Italian language very 
well; the Countess, French; Marjorie had paid 
considerable attention to German in her young 
life, and his Majesty said he could *^talk Ameri- 
can''; so they considered themselves well 
enough equipped on that score. If one does not 
have the command of languages, a little knowl- 
edge of this sort assists in one's escaping being 
cheated unmercifully at shops, led astray on 
trains and tramways or railroad cars, and en- 



20 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

ables one to have a correct understanding of 
what one sees on the way. 

His Majesty said, after he had sampled them, 
that England English was almost as hard to 
understand as the other languages he came in 
contact with. 



CHAPTEE II 

On reaching New York, from which place they 
were to take the ship, the Princess met them. 
His Majesty was not at all well at this time, and 
doubted the propriety of going, but braced him- 
self up for it with a will, knowing the sea, which 
he loved, was good medicine. 

Aftar purchasing the necessary ship outfit — 
the passage having been secured six weeks be- 
fore — and having the tags *^ Wanted" tied on 
their stateroom baggage, they went to the ship, 
where ^^Not wanted,'' on a slip of paper, was 
pasted on the trunks for the hold. All their 
baggage had the owner 's nanje on the outside. 

Details are tedious, and one day on board will 
suffice, with other incidents, as the days are very 
much alike. Having reached the ship at Hobo- 
ken piers an hour before it started, and gotten 
out their rugs, wraps, and all needful to make 
them comfortable, they were well settled in their 
chairs, which were insured to them for a dollar 
apiece, as well as their location, to the end of 
the trip, before starting. 

Their early arrival also gave them an oppor- 
tunity to watch the bustle of getting ready ; the 
departure; the receding houses; the little skiff 

31 



22 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

in wliicli the man came to give and take any 
mail; to feel to the fullest the novelty, the 
tremor of uncertainty, as one notices the ocean 
swell and views nothing but the vast expanse of 
water ahead. One feels safe, however, on per- 
ceiving the almost military rule of the officials. 

A man sits away up in a box on a stout pole, 
watching. Every hour he is relieved by another 
as the bell taps. It is fun to see one man run 
up one tall ladder to take the place of the man 
already there, and who as quickly skips down a 
second. On the upper deck the captain and somo 
trusty officers with the proper instruments are 
ever watching. No one allowed here— but by 
invitation — to disturb the tenor of their 
thoughts. Marjorie and her party were invited 
up for half an hour. Far down on the lower 
deck the steerage passengers aired themselves, 
looking cheerful enough, especially the children 
when deck passengers threw candy down for 
them to scramble for and make merry over. 

The staterooms were comfortable, though 
they thought the narrow beds hard. The sea air 
made them sleep well, spite of their hardness. 
Attached to each bunk was a railing a foot high, 
for rough weather. The top sheet was sewed 
up like a bag and a blanket tied down in it. The 
washstands shut up like a writing-desk, and 
were very convenient. In discussing the merits 
or demerits of the rooms, the Princess said the 
Countess 's room was so large, compared to hers 
and others, she thought they might have a party 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 23 

in it. The Princess liked a little party, and gave 
one later in an open place on the ship, having 
tea and cake at five o'clock. 

They were on board nearly ten days, but the 
sea was not rough much at any time, which Mar- 
jorie pretended was due to her birthday ring, a 
simple gold band with an amethyst set flat in. 
Her birthday was the 14th of February, and the 
stone was the appropriate one for that month. 
She laughingly said it had already shown its 
true worth as a talisman, she having gone in 
bathing once at Old Point Comfort, Virginia, 
and lost it in the water. Her father said he 
would look for it while she went to dress for 
lunch. At his feet a wave rolled — he had seen 
her bathing and knew where to go — and as he 
looked into the sand, when the wave receded it 
left a new set of false teeth, which he stooped 
and picked up, and was just about to turn and 
go to the office with the teeth, where he thought 
they might be claimed by the owner, when he 
observed another wave coming, and he thought 
he would wait for one more wave. And, lo! 
there was Marjorie 's ring. Imagine her delight 
with its additional value. 

It was ten A.M. when they started for the 
Old World on the ship. At eleven, still sitting 
on deck, they were served, from little cups, a 
consomme by the deck steward, his assistant fol- 
lowing with sliced cured tongue and beef sand- 
wiches. About this time the band struck up on 
deck. At one P.M. the bugle blew for lunch. 



24 What Marjorie Saw "jihroad 

This was served downstairs in the dining-room, 
in the front of the ship, and was more elaborate 
than any e very-day land dinner. 

At four P.M. lemonade and cake were handed 
on deck by the same waiters who served the 
eleven o'clock meal. At six-thirty the bugle 
blew, and all who desired retired to make ready 
for dinner at seven, when the bugle blew again, 
and the band played somewhere near the dining- 
room. 

The dinner was conducted in style. About 
twenty-four persons sat at the longest tables, 
which were three in a row, in the central part 
of the saloon. Each of these tables had four 
waiters, and the party sat at one of them. The 
waiters were gloved, and did their part admir- 
ably. The dining-room steward stood near the 
door, inside, and superintended affairs. If one 
wished, meals were sent to the room at the 
touch of an electric bell. 

The ices at dinner were usually very tasteful ; 
all from New York, enough to go and return 
with. One evening there was a pink dove on a 
green plot ; another time, two sleighs — ^made of 
cake — holding blocks of cream; and the last 
night each person had a German flag stuck on 
a pin in the cream as a souvenir, for the ship 
belonged to the Norddeutscher Lloyd. Dinner 
always lasted an hour and a half. At seven- 
thirty A.M. again the bugle sounded to awaken 
those who wanted to rise for an eight o'clock 
breakfast. Not many attended. The passen- 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 25 

gers, the ladies especially, preferred to rise at 
their pleasure. 

There were salt baths, hot or cold ; the stew- 
ardess came and went to make ready at the 
touch of a bell. Also fresh- water baths for those 
who liked them. The stewardess was very use- 
ful, helping the ladies dress, or combing their 
hair, and, as already mentioned, fixing the bath. 
There were several of them. One gives the one 
waiting on her two and a half dollars at the 
beginning of the trip, and as much again before 
getting off. This answers for the first deck 
steward, too; the second deck steward gets 
about a dollar, also the two waiters on one's 
side of the table. The dining-room steward 
gets about two and a half dollars — at least, pas- 
sengers usually give these amounts to insure 
comfort and to be free of annoyance. 

They met other vessels, which kept them in 
touch with the world, and the sight of a vessel 
was a joyful event. The whole ship halloed, 
and those who had them leveled their binoculars 
to draw it as near as possible. There were all 
sorts of surmises as to why their ship went so 
slowly; but well it was for the passengers, for 
only one became sick. Some said the captain 
had orders to go slowly because there was a coal 
strike on, and it takes an enormous amount of 
coal to go fast. Others said they thought it was 
a family ship, and slow by nature, to accommo- 
date people who did not like to be rolled about. 

The promenade deck is the greatest feature 



26 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

of a ship. "Wide and smootli, it serves as a sit- 
ting-room, lounging place, library — thongh all 
these rooms are on a good sMp such as this — 
and a street to walk on. One gets restless 
hemmed in by water only, and tramps the deck 
like a caged lion or lioness. 

There were two days of fog, and the captain, 
who was very social, disappeared. The foghorn 
blew every five minutes until the fog vanished, 
then the captain turned up again. 

One night there was a concert for the benefit 
of the sailors, the different musical guests con- 
tributing. On two occasions a portion of the 
promenade deck was covered with canvas and 
decorated with flags, while the passengers were 
at dinner, to give a ball in. The captain had it 
done as a surprise. Marjorie wondered at the 
great mugs of beer, three in each hand, each 
holding a quart, she saw the deck steward carry- 
ing to the musicians as she flitted in and out 
the dance in graceful sway. More than once 
these glasses were filled. But she did not know 
Germans and the German beer. It is good, and 
mild, and they were accustomed to it from their 
childhood. 

The captain was a genial, little, fat, blue-eyed 
man, who flirted his coat-tails as he led the 
grand march previous to the dancing on the 
nights of the balls. He was trusty, too. On his 
return to the Faderland the Kaiser was to re- 
ward him with a medal for some daring feat hQ 
had led in rescuing a ship, . 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 27 

All in all, a good ship is an excellent place to 
spend a week or two if one does not feel the 
motion too much. 

The night before the ship landed the captain 
announced the lighthouse on English soil, and 
all were jubilant. Next day they encountered 
the Needles, some natural rough stones before 
the Isle of Wight, on the way to Southampton. 

It took several hours to land from the little 
boat the passengers for Southampton were put 
oif on, as the ship went on to Bremen, Germany. 

Marjorie had risen early that morning and 
gone out to see how the land lay, but there was 
very little of it. However, she saw a glorious 
sunrise. All was gold — the sky, the tips of 
things, the water fairly dazzling, changing mir- 
rors of it; the clouds afar; the deck and all na- 
ture. The iJVive air itself vibrated with the 
golden sheen, and she fled from the glamour of 
its beauty. His Majesty felt much better, and 
discussed it with his party whether they should 
go to the Isle of Wight, some acquaintances on 
the ship. having mentioned it as an interesting 
place to visit ; but Osborne was not open to the 
tourist, and they concluded to remain in South- 
ampton a few days, stopping at the Badly Hotel. 

A quaint city they found Southampton. The 
remains of Canute's house, worked into a more 
modern one, took them far back into English 
history. The old city wall, dated A. D. 1400, 
with its tower, steps and trees, was quite charm- 



28 What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 

ing, and the ladies showed their appreciation 
of it by each taking a snapshot. 

Next day they went to Lyndhnrst, driving 
through a beantiful way and getting fascinating 
glimpses of the country as they merrily bowled 
along, arriving there for lunch. They were told 
that it was once a ducal home, now a resort, 
but charming in the extreme. Back yards and 
stables were so hidden by walls and undergrowth 
one would never be aware of their presence in 
exploring did not an upstairs window bear down 
on them. Over the south front a magnolia tree, 
then in bloom, was sprawled and twisted like a 
vine instead of having a trunk and stiff limbs. 
Here the garden was luxuriant, the tennis court 
near the house and bordered with small flowers ; 
the larger flowers and trees beyond; a hedge 
or wall all around; no neighbor's yard was vis- 
ible. 

Inside there was such an air of refinement and 
repose, Marjorie pictured to herself the old 
Duke sitting about with the family and friends, 
carriages coming and going through the hand- 
some gates on the north front; the merrymak- 
ing; the good cheer attending such commotions. 
And it was with a sigh of regret she left the 
greenhouse, bearing into the dining-room, to 
continue the drive to New Forest, where stands 
the monument marking the spot on which Will- 
iam Rufus of England fell when he was acci- 
dentally ( 1) shot by an arrow sent by his friend 
Walter. Proper inscriptions are traced on the 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 29 

triangular upright stone, and the beautiful 
trees, the stillness, the romantic aspect, brought 
the whole scene to Marjorie 's mind — the king, 
the friend, the deer, all had their places in the 
drama as she conceived it, and she was pleased 
with herself for having remembered enough of 
her English history to make it so realistic to 
her. 

Leaving this place, other sights crowded their 
thoughts, such as English villages with thatched 
roofs and tangled gardens bring. Nearing one 
house, Marjorie begged his Majesty to stop the 
carriage — she must see inside of it. 

^'Why, Marjorie, it would not be decent to 
ask those people to let us see the inside of their 
house. ' ^ 

*^0h, papa, we won't put it that way; we will 
stand outside the gate and tell them how lovely 
the yard is, how pretty the children are whom 
you see with the lady by the wild rose bush ; then 
we will admire the house, so they will ask us 
in; then we will beg leave to photo the whole 
thing, and they will be so pleased over this it 
will not seem rude," Marjorie said, as fast as 
she could, for fear of getting his assent too late, 
or after they had passed. But the carriage had 
stopped now, at the Princess's bidding, for she 
and the Countess wanted to take photographs. 
For answer to Marjorie 's entreaties his Majesty 
had looked at the Countess and Princess, who 
both signaled yes to his inquiring eyes. After 
walking around outside, and taking a picture or 



30 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

two, the three ladies were invited inside the 
gate, and did as Marjorie had said in such a 
skilful manner that they were taken even into 
the stables, where were twelve lovely Jerseys, 
each having her name hung up on a board in 
front of her stall. They were being milked by 
the man of the place. When the Princess came 
to one bearing her name she proclaimed it to 
the smiling Englishwoman, pulled it off the 
wooden peg and waltzed all around with it, giv- 
ing the other Princess a hug and a pat that 
made the gentle beast blink her soft eyes. When, 
later, they were conducted to the dairy, on the 
opposite side — the house proper being in the 
middle — the Countess said truthfully she had 
never seen so many large bowls of milk covered 
with such rich cream outside of a creamery. 
Whereupon the good woman led the way to the 
parlor and set them down to glasses of as fine 
milk as any one wished to drink. 

She showed them her cats ; her old pieces of 
china; her bake-oven; and seemed so pleased 
to have what she evidently thought was ^ ^ qual- 
ity" to make her a visit that Sunday afternoon, 
her one tooth in front was visible, by reason of 
her smile, until they had gone too far to see it. 

**The wild rose bush, on close inspection," 
Marjorie remarked as they left, *'had roses al- 
most as large as teacups, and so sweet, and the 
thatched roof was so pretty, I wish papa would 
build a little summer house at home with one." 

The Princess had secured her picture, taking 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 31 

in the confusion of flowers and vegetables with 
the children — the house in the background — go- 
ing her way rejoicing. They had gained another 
victory over his Majesty. He had sat still in 
the carriage for some little time after they had 
left him, not altogether approving of this whole- 
sale invasion of a private residence; but, either 
getting restless or getting curious to see what 
they were up to, when they disappeared in the 
cow-house, he joined them and became as affable 
as anybody, much to the good woman's pleasure. 
He gave her some coin for her trouble, and she 
made a curtsy, at the same time mumbling- 
thanks. 



CHAPTER III 

They went by train to London. ReacMng the 
station, they drove to the Victoria, in sight of 
Trafalgar Square. After freshening up a little 
they took top seats on an omnibns and rode 
round and round the city to get a general view 
of it. The next day, after a morning's ramble, 
they lunched at ^^Ye old Cheshire Cheese Inn,'* 
frequented in earlier days by Samuel Johnson 
and his boon companions. 

The party sat at the same table, and saw 
where the paint had been rubbed off the wall 
by the wigs of these wits as they leaned against 
it for solid comfort. 

A picture of Samuel Johnson hangs on the 
wall just over the end of the table where he had 
had his seat. 

One can get an idea of what these meetings 
meant for each in reading Goldsmith's ^^ Haunch 
of Venison," in which he touches up his inti- 
mates to a fine point. 

'^Ye Old Cheshire Cheese Inn" is on Fleet 
street, a little back, and entered by a narrow 
alley at the side, other houses directly on Fleet 
street obscuring it from view. One went out by 
another narrow alley on the other side. The 

33 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 33 

kitchen is upstairs, and tlie waiters halloo up 
their wants as fast as their cockney tongues can 
roll it out, just as they are said to have done in 
the days of Johnson, Burke, and the like. 

The party were told that they had the same 
lunch — cooked the same way — and that they ate 
it from the same kind of plates, and drank beer 
out of the same sort of mugs. It was fine ! The 
ham, the bread, the peas, the cheese (served in 
little oblong tin plates), the beer. So said the 
witty Goldsmith, his Majesty and party. The 
Countess and Marjorie had never fancied beer 
and would not hkve taken it an^nvhere else. 

Eight in the heart of London, almost opposite 
the A^ictoria, the Princess and the Countess 
were returning from some shopping, when the 
Princess heard some one calling her name loud- 
ly, and behold! there were some friends just 
across the street whom she had known for years 
in New York. The Countess was made ac- 
quainted, and with her family and the Princess 
was invited to dine that evening. 

They attired themselves in their traveling 
best and went over later, enjoying the company 
and a very elegant repast. On the ship the 
Princess had many admirers. One tall Saxon 
youth, claiming to have mines in South America, 
was always in her wake. He was an amateur 
bird-fancier, and when the hours began to be 
dull he brought the birds out to exliibit; so he 
was dubbed ^'The Bird" by Marjorie, who had 
a tendency to make sport of anything novel and 



34 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

humorous. She even went so far as to draw a 
picture of him stalking around the deck fol- 
lowed by his favorite fowl, whose limbs were 
something akin to his own as regards length. 
He was bright enough to get an inkling of these 
facetious side-plays, and begged the Princess to 
let him see the picture she had of him (Marjorie 
having given the drawing to her) , and she finally 
consented. 

He was as much amused at the caricature as 
Marjorie was with Mm, and drew a lovely pic- 
ture of her, with the elegant poise of her head 
somewhat exaggerated by leaving out the grace- 
ful sway which characterized her neck. 

^^A very refined rebuke," the Countess said; 
but Marjorie retorted that she ^^ could not help 
his looking like a crane," and the people hear- 
ing smiled. The fair, accomplished German was 
then known as ' ' The Bird, ' ^ and when the party 
reached London a letter came for the Princess 
containing nothing more than a lovely feathered 
bird, pressed onto a nice card, with the donor's 
address. He had offered to present her to the 
Kaiser if she would come to Berlin in her trav- 
els and let him know of her arrival; but she 
feared the Kaiser was not so easily approached. 
Still, she enjoyed the pretty bird, and no doubt 
wrote a note of thanks. 

^^The Mall, the Mall!" exclaimed Marjorie 
at breakfast one morning soon after their ar- 
rival in London. ^^We must see that. I have 
read in encyclopaedias^ and wherever else I could 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 35 

find a description of the Mall, and I must see it 
without fail. ' ' 

Being agreeable to all, on the Mall they went 
that day, driving beneath trees which border 
either side, finding Buckingham Palace at the 
end, and St. James 's Park on the left, with a nar- 
row rift of water shining among its flowers and 
shrubbery. St. «Tames ^s Palace and Marlborough 
(then being fixed up for the Prince and Prin- 
cess of Wales, it was said) are on the right, and 
many handsome dwellings of noted people were 
pointed out upon the Mall. 

At Buckingham Palace the party were admit- 
ted into the stables ; not any finer than some pri- 
vate ones they had seen in the United States, 
but much larger. In fact, they were immense, 
and built around a great court. The groom said 
there were a hundred and forty horses. In dis- 
cussing their speed with this groom his Majesty 
said it did not near come up to the ordinary 
speed of one of his horses, which so astonished 
the groom he stammered and said, ^^No doubt 
His Majesty's (King Edward's) horses make 
up for it by grace, high-stepping and beauty." 
They were beautiful, especially the eight creams 
with long tails and manes of darker hue, pret- 
tily waved; also the same number of handsome 
blacks, in opposite stalls. The state coach, 
among others, was also shown. 

The palaces are quaint and interesting, but 
not much on architecture. The grounds and 
parks about them are elaborate and immense — • 



36 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

St. James's, Hyde, Eegent and Kensington 
(where the good Qneen Victoria was born). 

On one of these park drives — St. James's per- 
haps — the coachman pointed out a dog cemetery. 
It was so crowded with flowers and undergrowth 
one could see only a few white headstones peep- 
ing through ; but tall, shapely trees were waving 
their arms above, and altogether these favorite 
dogs had quite an attractive resting-place. Mar- 
jorie said, ''The idea is so cute." 

As old as the establishment is, Tusseaux's 
wax works keep in touch with the world — the 
latest being added to enlist attention; though 
his Majesty thought they were not what they 
were cracked up to be when he failed to dis- 
cover a figure of his admiration. Gen. Robert 
Edward Lee, in that vast crowd of characters, 
ancient and modern, in appropriate costumes. 
The Princess answered that she had not noticed 
Gen. U. S. Grant there, either. 

One figure turns his head, and Marjorie 
thought she was either growing dizzy from so 
much sight-seeing, or the man was a live one 
and very impudent to leer at her in such man- 
ner. The breathing lady excited considerable 
attention — her breast heaving up and down, as 
if she were in a deep sleep, her eyelids closed, 
carrying out the deception. 

They thought the entrance steps very hand- 
some, stretching around an elegant hall, the 
Eoyal family just within the second doorway 
after one ascends ; the King standing in scarlet 



WJiat Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 37 

military attire; the Queen, in coronation robes, 
at his side, though a little apart ; the ladies all 
in Worth gowns. The Princess of Wales's gown, 
white lace with long pink velvet train — the three 
feathers embroidered all over it — ^was very 
fetching. Around the train edge, on the under 
side, a line of pink roses, their faces next to the 
f3oor, gave a delicate finish to the superb cos- 
tume. A long tulle veil fell over the back of 
her head and robes. Near this group was a fig- 
ure of General Washington, and his Majesty 
remarked, ^^The Eoyal family is in very good 
company, I am glad to see ! ' ' 

With an ecstasy of delight Marjorie and the 
Countess walked beneath the lion gate at Hamp- 
ton Court. They were both partial to beautiful 
gardens and magnificent homes. If they had 
had to give up seeing either, both would have 
preferred seeing Hampton Court to seeing the 
King. 

On the Thames, a pleasant drive from Lon- 
don, is Hampton Court — founded by Cardinal 
Wolsey and presented by him to Henry VIII, 
who viewed it with envious eyes. Marjorie 
skipped in youthful glee down the broad stairs. 
She pictured to herself the train of royalty and 
the concomitants thereof. And as she wandered 
through the innumerable rooms, whose yards 
and yards of tapestry Cardinal Wolsey spent 
so much time in collecting; saw the multitudes 
of historical paintings on the walls; the ap- 
proach to the castle; the gardens with flowers; 



38 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 

the terraces — all so enchanting to look upon — 
she said for the first time in her life she ceased 
to inquire of herself why Anne Boleyn married 
Henry VIII, though some of his improvements 
were demolished by a later king, strange to say. 

The bunches from the old arbor in the 
grapery hung down so evenly and at such regu- 
lar intervals the Countess noted at a glance how 
carefully the gardener pruned and tended. Not 
that she would, but Marjorie said she was great- 
ly tempted to reach up after the luscious fruit. 
^^It would be an unpardonable crime to filch 
fruit from so royal a vine,'' his Majesty replied, 
sarcastically, when she whispered her desire to 
him. He knew it would be the only way to get 
it. Later, the Countess was telling some one 
about it, ^ ^ and the trunk was as large as one of 
my twenty-year-old maples," she said. *^The 
vine slopes down on a trellis under a glass shed 
like the roof of a house, the lower part being 
four or ^ve feet from the ground. And there 
are shades and sashes on the roof, controlled 
by cords, to give it light, or shield it from cold, ' ' 
she added. 

On the way to Windsor the party went part of 
the time by train, then took an open carriage, 
much of the time running on the Thames. 

A small house on a sloping bank, in which 
King John signed the Magna Charta, was 
pointed out. A weeping willow hung over the 
water; a hedge, as usual, enclosed the side and 
back. In sight stood a table on the lawn, a chair 



What Marjorie Saw ^Abroad 39 

beside it, which Marjorie thought must be those 
she was told were there somewhere on the place 
and had been used by him for the purpose. 

Boating is a favorite pastime on the Thames. 
Little boats were floating here and there, jDulled 
by man instead of beast, past charming coun- 
try places showing lawns dipping to the water ^s 
edge, ornamented with graceful trees and flow- 
ers, little tea-houses and boat-houses. Then the 
hedge-rows on the way as they left the river 
were visible for some time, indicating some- 
thing unique beyond, and Marjorie stood up 
most of the drive, as they spun along over the 
smooth country road, to see the houses over the 
hedges and the real life of the exclusive Eng- 
lishman. They were like other homes abroad — 
the hedges serving to lend an air of mystery, 
as of the unknown and unseen, to those beyond. 

Approaching Windsor, they noticed it stood 
on a height, and soon entered what is called the 
Long Walk, an avenue of elms, a double row 
three miles long, at the end of which, facing 
the great gate of the castle, on a rise of ground, 
stands an equestrian statue of George III 
(grandfather of Queen Victoria). Coming out, 
Marjorie thought she counted ^ve rows of elms, 
but the Princess said four were enough. They 
appealed to his Majesty, but he said he had not 
noticed, as he was trying to catch a glimpse of 
Frogmore (Queen Victoria's handsome tomb) 
all the way. The party had a flitting view of 



40 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

it going in, but it was so hidden by trees it was 
tantalizing to get a view of it. 

The castle has a town of the same name at- 
tached. The castle itself is immense. It ram- 
bles aronnd, in and about a great space, having 
courts with flowers and fountains. 

The Eoyal family live in the front rooms 
when there. Spread before one is a beautiful 
garden, and an orange porch beneath a parapet 
guarded by cannon; red-coats stand on duty 
near the Royal apartments. 

Marjorie got interested and thoughtlessly 
strayed ahead, out of hearing distance, and the 
guide, who was conversing with his Majesty, 
said, ^^Ah, ah! she is going too far," in a 
troubled voice. But his Majesty rattled some 
coins in his pocket, and the guide quickly added, 
' ^ But she is too young to do any harm. Let her 
alone. ' ' 

So Marjorie wandered on, it seemed, to her 
heart's content. She examined the big cannon 
in front; she looked over the parapet; she saw 
the garden (laid out in walks and many beds of 
flowers) was led down to by a bold flight of 
marble steps embellished at the foot by two 
white stone elephants, which she afterward 
heard came from Lucknow, in India. Opposite, 
another marble ascent led up to the castle front. 

After satisfying herself somewhat, though 
she longed to enter the beautiful garden and 
pick a few flowers, but which instinct forbade 
her doing, she retiirned to her father^ who w^s$ 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 41 

still talking to the guide. Seeing lier, he told 
her when she came np that the guide had said 
she had gone too far. He did not think she 
really had ; he thought the guide a sharp fellow 
and was trying to get a little extra. 

Turning to the guide, she apologized to him, 
adding : 

^'We Americans go as we please. I did not 
know, and would have gone farther, but, think- 
ing I heard some one calling me, I turned, and 
as I did so my eyes rested on those red-coats, 
who looked so still and martial I feared they 
might fire. I would not mind bribing you, ' ' with 
a smile, ^'but I have conscientious scruples 
about bribing soldiers. They must do their duty 
as it is laid out for them" — slipping a coin in 
his hand, which he accepted with a bow, her 
father staring at her while she made her well- 
timed speech. 

Her father had called out to her when the 
guide protested, but when he relented the for- 
mer looked away by the time Marjorie thought 
she heard him, and she went on. 

The Countess and the Princess had gone to 
the North Terrace, and were soon joined by his 
Majesty and Marjorie. Far away they could 
see the outlines of the chapel at Eton, and the 
churchyard which inspired Gray's Elegy. 

They went up to Caesar 's Tower, at the other 
end of the castle, for some of the buildings were 
there during that administration. In the very 



42 What Marjorie Saw lAhroad 

top was a prison, with only narrow slits in tlie 
wall for light and air — a gloomy place indeed. 
So-called heretics, the party were told, were tor- 
tured here with thnmb-screws and other hor- 
rible instruments. The Princess shuddered. 
His Majesty said he could but more admire the 
strength of character history acquaints us with 
of those who withstood all, after he had seen 
this place. 

A cannon up here — long since unused — once 
guarded the bridge in sight across the Thames. 

The party had to climb ladders and go 
through dark, narrow places to reach this height, 
and the Countess said she was pleased to be 
down again, after hearing about the terrible 
tragedies enacted up there in the dark and out 
of hearing. 

In aboufc what seems the center of the castle 
is a large open space, the Round Tower in the 
midst. The elevation on which the Tower stands 
is the site of the legendary Round Table of King 
Arthur and his Knights. Marjorie imagined 
them pulling their horn spoons from their belts 
and falling to, after the manner of their day. 
It is an immense place of itself, and doubtless 
could hold out a long time against an enemy if 
he could succeed in passing the outer castle 
walls. It is pierced with holes for cannon. His 
Majesty said there was no telling what was in 
that fortress. One can imagine great prepara- 
tions for an extended siege, secret passages of 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 43 

escape, if all other efforts failed, or under- 
ground communications with the outer world. 
It looked so grand, so strong, so satisfactory ! 

St. George's Chapel at Windsor is akin to 
Westminster Abbey in point of interest. Some 
of the show places they missed at Windsor be- 
cause it was not the day. One is ever losing 
time finding places closed in traveling, and if 
one misses the day for opening one has to wait 
for the next. It is not only pleasure, but some 
work to travel well. When the members of the 
party missed anything they said they would take 
that in next time they crossed. Monday is al- 
ways cleaning day, so tourists had better amuse 
themselves some other way on that day. 



CHAPTEE IV 



^^Why^ mamma/' cried Marjorie, ^Hhe Tower 
of London is so large it is almost a village ! ' ' 

Like other used buildings of long standing, 
having been added to, as the needs increased, it 
is not a tower, but many towers. Entering the 
castellated walls through several strong gates 
or doors, there is the gun carriage on which 
Queen Victoria was carried to her burial. Here 
his Majesty met a friend whom he least expected 
to see, and of course they must have a chat, then 
proceeded to climb the tower where the little 
princes were murdered by several ruffians to 
make a place for Richard III. Marjorie remem- 
bered them in history — she remembered them 
at Tusseaux's Wax Works; whether from hor- 
ror or lack of air, she rushed back, down the 
narrow, winding, gloomy stairs (hardly two 
could go abreast), after attaining a dozen steps, 
telling her father, who was at her side, that she 
could not stand it, and went outside, where the 
guard told her the party would come out; but 
his Majesty came after a little and told her she 
was missing too much. The guard had told him 
where to find her, and had recommended her 
meeting him on the other side. At very few 

44 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 45 

places abroad, when one is sight-seeing, do tour- 
ists come out the way they enter. Taking cour- 
age, she returned when her father told her she 
would not have to go all the way up to the 
Princes' tower. Passing up the stairs again, 
she noticed a cord across those she had not jjre- 
viously reached. At this point her father, going 
ahead, entered a door at the left instead of con- 
tinuing to climb the stairs, and she thought she 
saw wonders in the different apartments. One 
suite was used by Henry III often as a resi- 
dence. Here are now many warlike weapons 
and coats of mail which people who valued their 
lives wore in that age. Without doubt every 
man carried a concealed dagger, and could hit 
straight to the mark along the narrow walled- 
up stairs and passageways in "ye olden tyme.'' 

Entering a large court, after leaving this 
tower, they saw a stone slab marking the spot 
where Lady Jane Grey was beheaded an hour 
after her husband had met a similar fate on 
Tower Hill. They went up into the Beauchamp 
tower, where the guard said she had been con- 
fined with many others. In her innocence she 
was persuaded to be queen against her will. 

The beef-eaters or keepers of the Tower still 
wear their frocks, boots, trousers and caps as 
they did — one told the Countess — when Henry 
VIII lived. He said Edward VI first, and then 
corrected himself. And the black ravens still 
croak on the rail of Beauchamp tower as they 
did when Lady Jane, refined, delicate and tal- 



46 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

ented, went to her ghastly fate. Many others 
met a similar fate here, for no greater provoca- 
tion, perhaps. 

Marjorie told the Princess, when they were 
out of hearing, she supposed they were called 
beef-eaters because they had seen so many 
bloody murders. His Majesty's comment was: 

' ' The armor, the shields, the ponderous war- 
like implements of different ages, preserved 
here, show humanity's weakness — ^love of 
power, without the greatness to use it right. '* 

^'Yes,'' said the Countess, *^when I view the 
beautiful monuments and paintings done by 
great and good men in memory of the Creator, 
the Saviour, and the angels, and see magnifi- 
cent shrines in the great churches to their honor, 
I wonder why so few seemed to understand the 
Saviour 's wishes or tried to follow them. Other- 
wise, there would have been no need of such 
weapons; such bloodshed; such waste of fair 
humanity; such grief -stricken relatives left to 



mourn. ' ' 



^^Even now it is said,'' rejoined the Princess, 
^^that the jealousy of European nations pre- 
vents Christians from owning the Holy Sepul- 
cher, the desire for which prompted the Cru- 
sades." 

Out of the Tower walls into the open air their 
thoughts took a more cheerful tone. 

At St. Paul's they got in about the time of 
afternoon service, at four- thirty, which was held 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 47 

in the main aisle, or nave, as tliey call it, the 
choir behind this, and embellished with much 
handsome carving. Indeed, all over Europe the 
choirs are grandly carved and most conspicuous. 
The altar at St. PauPs is surmounted by ''The 
Ascension," in marble; ''The Madonna and 
Child" lower down, in marble; "The Lord's 
Supper," in marble relief, below this. As the 
procession of priests and choristers filed in they 
were preceded by a beadle, a priestly-looking 
fellow in a black gown and bearing a long staff. 
He opened the gate for the imposing train to 
enter with an obsequiousness which enlightens 
a stranger as to the standing of the clergy in 
England, then closed it again, remaining out- 
side the gate. He opened it again for the offi- 
ciating minister to niount the lectern outside 
the chancel railing, escorting him to the foot of 
the steps, closing the gate, then opening it again 
when the reading was finished, again closing it 
when the minister had passed through — this 
being done twice, the service requiring two read- 
ings — and once more when the service was over. 
So one can understand that there was much 
ceremony at this short service. 

When the King and Queen are present, which 
perhaps is seldom or never, the Princess was 
told that they took seats on the front row of 
chairs — there are no pews, only rows of chairs 
in the nave immediately facing the choir and 
altar. The church is so large they are not really 
necessary, as enough chairs are there for daily 



48 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

use, and can be easily taken away for great oc- 
casions. 

Marjorie marveled at there being no special 
seat for the rulers in many of the great 
churches; but the Countess said she supposed 
they did not care about it, as they could have 
whatever they wanted, and perhaps preferred 
to confine themselves to the church they liked 
best, just as the rest of humanity did. But Mar- 
jorie insisted that they ought to have them 
through courtesy, in case they wanted to go in. 

In the basement, under the dome of St. Paul's, 
Lord Nelson is buried. Later, the party saw in 
the Louvre at Paris the fine painting by Turner 
where he is represented as receiving his death- 
wound on the battleship; and in Trafalgar 
Square, near their hotel in London, they daily 
saw the great monument to his memory. The 
black and white sarcophagus in which he rests 
is said to have been designed for Cardinal Wol- 
sey, but was sold during the Commonwealth of 
Cromwell, before it was finished for the Car- 
dinal's bones. 

On going to Lambeth Palace, where the Arch- 
bishop of Canterbury lives, and where the great 
Church Councils are held, it did not happen to 
be the day for it to be open to the public, and, 
time being valuable, each one tried to persuade 
the doorkeeper to let the party in^ — all to no 
avail. Finally, the Countess, remembering two 
bishops whom she knew, and who had been to 
one of these councils, asked the man if he had 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 49 

ever met the Bishop of Z , calling his name, 

or the Bishop of Y , calling him by name. 

*^Ah! I know them well. He added quickly: 

^ ' The Bishop of Z spent two weeks with the 

Archbishop of Canterbury, and so did the 

Bishop of Y ." And he was so delighted 

to know some one who may recently have seen 
them he let the travelers in, after asking his 
Majesty for his card, to make sure of his iden- 
tity, perhaps. They looked at the pictures, the 
libraries, the council chamber ; and his Majesty 
thought he saw one of his big ancestors hang- 
ing on the wall in a bishop's gown. Their names 
were alike and they hailed from the same place, 
but, not having personally known this ancient 
prelate, he took it for what it was worth. After 
seeing what there was to be seen, the Countess, 
on leaving, asked the keeper what she must tell 

the Bishop of Z , whom she might see any 

time in the United States. 

^ ' Only tell him that you saw Harker, ' ^ he re- 
plied. 

His aspect toward the party was quite 
changed when he found they knew bishops, such 
is the effect of a title on the Englishman. Mar- 
jorie told her father that was why she wanted 
to put their crests on things, to make traveling 
easier, and that she had heard that discussed. 

Harker was so polite, so learned, so intelli- 
gent, his Majesty was afraid to fee him on leav- 
ing; but the Princess, who had been to England 
before, said she heard Harker dropping his 



50 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

'^h's,'' wMch no literate ever does, and she 
langhed at Harker losing Ms crown. His Maj- 
esty wanted to send it to him by mail, but time 
is precious in traveling, and when things are 
not done at the time there seems no other time 
for them. His Majesty seemed worried over it, 
so they all suggested that he send it the next 
time one of the Bishops went over. 

One night the Countess, wishing to rest, and 
remaining at the Victoria, Marjorie, his Majesty 
and the Princess went to the theater in London 
to see an equestrian display. There were most 
beautiful feats of horsemanship. In the last act 
a torrent of real water rushing down a make- 
believe mountainside into a real river of water 
actually washed away a part of the bridge 
across it; a man was holding to a tree above in 
the wake of the mountain torrent, when a coach 
full of people came tearing along with outriders 
over the bridge, which they did not perceive, in 
their haste, had been wrecked at the other end 
until too late. Coach, coachman, occupants and 
attendants were carried over in grand melee by 
the excited horses, they plunging and rearing — 
all scrambling in the water for life in such a 
realistic way it seemed a horrible disaster in- 
stead of the finale of a play. All were borne out 
underneath somewhere, keeping up the delusion, 
the audience at the highest pitch of wonder and 
admiration till nothing was visible but the 
wreck, when the curtain fell. 

His Majesty thought it must be expensive 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 51 

business getting their clothes so wet night after 
night, to say nothing of the colds they must 
catch, as well as the danger from being mixed 
up with so many excited horses. 

Marjorie said it excelled anything of the sort 
she ever saw, except when they made it rain in 
a play in the City of Mexico, though it was an 
ingenious Yankee invention, which she did not 
imagine the English touching in any way. 

The party thought it would be very conven- 
ient if there were street cars in London. Omni- 
buses take their places, but these have regular 
stations where one has to get on and off, and a 
lack of familiarity with their routes is very em- 
barrassing. The party used the hackney car- 
riages or a hansom, at about a shilling a ride 
for two. If they went an hour or more they 
were confined to a stipulated sum. 

The ladies did not like the tea they had to 
drink in England, and later advised their 
friends to take it over with them, if they liked 
a particular brand, or any other brand than 
black. They hunted around for the kind they 
liked, after being informed by the hotel that it 
had none, but in vain. *^ English breakfast tea 
prevails all over the kingdom," the Countess 
said. 

They congratulated themselves on having 
taken their soap. The Victoria Hotel adver- 
tised itself as very generous in giving the occu- 
pants Pears' soap without extra charge. It ivas 
very nice to have it at hand. 



52 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

They enjoyed the beautiful cats they saw 
everywhere in England, and his Majesty was 
no little astonished to see women walking the 
streets with a cowhide in their right hand (rolled 
up and handy) for use on a poor dog they had 
along, he supposed, as he saw no other use for 
it; and it seemed to excite no wonder except 
among strangers. 

Westminster Abbey, as far as was practicable 
under the preparations before, and the demol- 
ishing of temporary structures afterward, ow- 
ing to the coronation, was enjoyed thoroughly 
by a man of his Majesty's culture. Before going 
through, Marjorie met one of the girls who had 
been an acquaintance on the ship, crossing, and 
asked her politely if she were enjoying every- 
thing. She answered : 

^ ^ Yes ; we have just come from Westminster 
Abbey.'' 

'^It is such an interesting place I suppose it 
takes some time to go through, doesn't it?" in- 
quired Marjorie. 

^'Oh, no," replied the girl; '^we walked all 
through in fifteen minutes." 

Marjorie told the Princess of it. The Prin- 
cess said: 

' ^ That is just what I would expect from that 
source." 

*'She must have galloped through," Marjorie 
added, laughing. 



CHAPTER V 

In discussing the coronation of Edward VII, 
his Majesty said in his country he was as good 
as a king, and that he did not care to bother 
about seeing one crowned. The Princess said 
the same. The Countess said she had not the 
slightest objection to seeing the coronation, but 
did not like to sit so long in a strange place in 
such a jam. There was a family tradition that 
the Countess was descended from kings. Mar- 
jorie, the only plebeian among them, as far as 
titles are concerned, said she saw no reason on 
earth for not going ; that the Sovereign of Eng- 
land was the only one on earth ever really 
crowned properly; that she was eager to go, 
and, as Sir Martin had offered to get them 
places, that she ivas going. And she thought it 
was her papa 's duty to go and see her through. 

Sir Martin was a cousin of a cousin of Mar- 
jorie's in the United States, and lived in Lon- 
don. When it was decided that his Majesty and 
Marjorie were to go the latter was enchanted. 

^^But you will miss the procession," said her 
father; ^^that will be as good as the crowning, 
and we would not have to be housed so long." 

'*Bah!" said Marjorie. **I saw the golden 
coach at the Buckingham stables and inspected 

53 



54 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

the beautiful frescoes all around it ; made faces 
at those four grotesque images standing out 
from the corners and wondered why they were 
there, and would recognize the long golden car- 
riage-tongue anywhere. I saw the cream horses, 
and the fine harness and trappings hanging up 
in the glass cases all around the harness-room, 
and can imagine the rest — only some postilions 
in livery and the Yeomen of the Guard or beef- 
eaters I met at the Tower and some troops. The 
best will get inside.^' 

^^You are bent on going,'' her father said. 

I won't say how long they waited in Westmin- 
ster for the great event. Some said one had to 
sit for hours. It was some time, however; but 
that Saturday evening when Marjorie got back 
to the hotel her eyes glistened, and she forgot 
her fatigue telling her mother and the Princess 
(who condescended to listen — very attentively, 
however) how it all impressed her. Her father 
went to his room to rest. Sitting in her own 
room, with the Countess and Princess for audi- 
ence, she began : 

^ ' First the plain clergy came in, in white, with 
long sticks like the beadles carry; others in red 
and purple ; Canon Duckworth with the crown ; 
the King's household; the Union Standard, and 
the highest officials of the church and state, 
wearing ermine capes and long velvet trains. 
Then the Queen ! ' ' Here she clasped her hands, 
and continued: ^^She had on what seemed to 
be a lace princess dress, with long, diaphanous 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 55 

angel sleeves ; a long golden train ; lengthy lace 
veil floating back from lier face." Digressing, 
she said, ^'I would look well in that, too." 

Both agreeing, she proceeded : 

^^The nobles, bareheaded, bore what they call 
her regalia — the crown and scepters — ahead of 
her; intermingled were pages bearing these no- 
bles' coronets on cushions. Pages held up the 
Queen's heavy train. The Mistress of the Eobes 
(the Duchess of Buccleuch) ; the Ladies in Wait- 
ing; Women of the Bedchamber, and Maids of 
Honor accompanied her. All these ladies were 
in low neck, and gowned differently, except in 
regard to the long, sheer, white veils and 
sweeping velvet trains. Troops stalked at 
the side. Then came Earl Eoberts with the 
second sword; Viscount Wolesley with the 
third sword; others; the Lord Mayor; others; 
Lord Londonderry with the sword of state; 
the Duke of Marlborough with St. Ed- 
ward's crown. At last, Kinoc Edward VII 
himself,, accompanied by the Bishop of Dur- 
ham and other bishops carrying the rest of his 
regalia; he in ermine and long purple velvet 
train held up by pages; a troop of guards at 
bis side, with plumed helmets on. The King 
took a seat in a chair in the choir at the right 
of a blue velvet dais, reserved for the homage. 
The Queen seated herself in a chair opposite 
him, on the left. The Archbishop of Canterbury 
stood behind the coronation chair (in front of 
the altar) and proclaimed the King amid cheers 



56 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

and ''Grod save the King''; the trumpets blew. 
He and the Queen then moved nearer the altar 
to other chairs, keeping on their respective 
sides. Presently the King was escorted to the 
altar, kneeled, bareheaded, before it, and with 
his right hand on the Bible promised to do his 
best; then went to the coronation chair, where 
a cloth- of -gold canopy was held over him. The 

Earl of Eosebery (Mr. J 's friend — Mr. 

J was a friend of her father) was one of 

the bearers. Under this they anointed him with 
oil from a golden spoon, as Saul was anointed 
in olden times. They put some vestments ou 
him as he stood up, and a girdle, touching his 
heels with a golden spur. There was great cere- 
mony with swords — every man carrying a part 
of the regalia presenting it to the Archbishop. 

^ ^ The King standing, they put a cloth-of-gold 
mantle on him. Sitting down again, a glove was 
put on his right hand, the scepter of the cross 
in it, the dove scepter in the left, different lords 
of high birth helping in the doing of each act. 

As the Archbishop laid the crown on the 
King's head each peer put on his coronet, so 
that there was all at once a great flashing of 
jewels. A button was touched, and the whole 
Kingdom and Empire of India knew their King 
was crowned — in spite of the witch's prophecy. 

^* After the exhortation from the Archbishop 
and a blessing, the King, the Queen and attend- 
ants went to the widest part of the church 
(where the nave and transepts meet) and as- 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 57 

sembled around tlie steps of tlie blue velvet dais, 
where two great state chairs were; the King 
first, with his attendants, seating himself on the 
right; the Queen on the left, with hers. Here 
the peers did homage with their coronets off. 
So each in turn, the King first, his subjects later, 
do homage to a higher power. Each peer knelt 
on a cushion in front of the King after ascend- 
ing the dais, in order, according to his rank, one 
at a time, the Prince of Wales first, each kissing 
the King on the cheek and touching his crown in 
token of fealty. But the King grabbed the 
Prince of Wales and gave him a hearty kiss. 
Wasn't that sweet of him!" And both smiling 
encouragement, she said: ^^ Don't you suppose 
he thought it hard to be a king, and, knowing 
what his son had to look forward to, had a sym- 
pathy for him?" 

^ ' Perhaps so, ' ' her mother replied ; ^ 'but most 
people think it worth the trouble. ' ' 

The Princess, very democratic in her views, 
said she didn't, and Marjorie resumed: 

** During the homage an anthem floated out, 
the trumpets blared, and ' Long Live the King ! ' 
was joyfully cried out. 

''Then the Archbishop crowned the Queen, 
who went to the altar with her ladies and the 
four peeresses. Duchesses of Montrose, Suther- 
land, Portland, and Marlborough, who carried 
a golden canopy over her, the pages holding up 
her train. As the crown touched the Queen's 
head all the peeresses put their coronets on. 



58 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

''The Queen and attendants returning to the 
dais, she, in passing the King, made a bow of 
homage surpassing everything I ever saw for 
grace. 

''The King and Queen receiving the sacra- 
ment at the altar, ' Glory be to God on high' was 
sung, and the Eoyal party went behind the 
screen to the tomb of Edward the Confessor — 
I afterward heard — and changed their robes for 
darker ones, returning and marching on out, 
still wearing crowns and holding scepters. 
Troops lined the way outside, and there was 
such a crowd I wonder I am alive. And the 
poor King! — he must be so tired, he had so 
many unusual functions to go through with. ' ' 

"How did you find out so much, Marjorie T' 
said her mother, who would not interrupt her 
till she had finished, but sat breathless, wonder- 
ing at her knowledge. 

"Why, I asked people, and I gathered much 
from those talking around me. I knew Earls 
Eoberts and Wolesley and others from their 
pictures — ^you know, I have been watching these 
things closely, to enjoy the coronation fully 
when the time came, and t/oii have enjoyed the 
telling of it, too, in spite of your democratic 
feelings," she said to the laughing Princess. 
"And papa secretly thinks it was fine! I am so 
glad I went!'' And she jumped onto her bed 
for a little rest before dinner, saying she would 
tell them more when she thought of it. 



CHAPTER VI 

Leaving their trunks at the Victoria until 
their return from London, with valises and 
hand-bags they took the train for Leamington, 
a tjipicsl English town; in fact, it is called the 
English Spa — the water has so good a reputa- 
tion. It is only a few hours ' run from London. 
Marjorie said it was a place to spend a month 
in, if one had time. She longed to sit in the 
hotel garden on sunny days and dream and rest 
to her heart's content under the shade-trees and 
among the flowers ; but she did not remain long 
enough for the sunny days. 

It was damp and misty the few days they were 
there, and when Marjorie asked for a fire she 
smiled when she saw the little bundle of tree 
twigs the maid brought in to kindle it with. She 
had heard that, owing to the scarcity of forests, 
foreigners utilized all the prunings of the trees ; 
but these looked as if they were cut from bushes, 
and she felt quite sure the fire would go out, 
which it did. Ringing to have it again started, 
she saw the maid come in with two little bundles 
of the same sort, neatly tied, which were evi- 
dently kept ready for the purpose. She won- 
dered if the maid would find it easier to use 

59 



60 What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 

American kindling, and would not be as glad 
as herself to have a few stout sticks to hurry the 
smoking fire ; but where ignorance is bliss it is 
folly to be wise, so she did not tell the maid 
about American kindling. The travelers came 
here only as a starting point to Kenilworth, 
Coventry, "Warwick and Stratford. 

They stopped at the Eegent Hotel, one of the 
old-time hostelries, containing antique furni- 
ture, old-style beds, with testers half over and 
curtains at the back and side, and a bell-cord in 
reach. The beds were high with feathers in- 
stead of springs ; the washstands were so large 
two basins and pitchers, and the accessories, sat 
very comfortably on them. Candles were used 
in the bedrooms. The maids said ^ ' Thank you' ' 
when you demanded anything of them. There 
is no such humility in America or the United 
States, except in some old slave darky's manner 
toward her **ole Miss." 

A short drive from. Leamington brought the 
party to Kenilworth, which is fast dropping 
away; but the ruins are still of interest, ever 
associated with the capricious but great Queen 
Elizabeth and her favorite, and closely con- 
nected with Sir Walter Scott 's sad but beautiful 
romance of Amy Robsart. Not knowing it would 
later be questioned, Marjorie said it was a pleas- 
ure to realize that she had actually tread the 
same ground that lovely Amy had, and called 
her name many, many times to make the echo 
peculiar to the back part of the premises. Amy's 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 61 

pictures are seen in show-windows of stores. 
At Coventry, reached by another drive from 
Leamington, was seen the effigy of ^'Peeping 
Tom, ' ' a pipe in his mouth, looking from an 
upper window, just as he had done when Lady 
Godiva bravely walked through the city to re- 
lieve the people, long, long ago, with no clothing 
except the glory of her hair. The poem of Ten- 
nyson has made the story too well known to 
repeat, but not every one knows that ^ ' Peeping 
Tom" is still there. 

At the Craven Arms the party took lunch, and 
returned to Leamington, setting out next day 
for Warwick by tramway. 

The Castle of Warwick is one of the fine old 
English country seats kept up and occupied at 
times by the duke of that name, descended, they 
were told, from Warwick, the man called the 
**King Maker" in history. Our tourists, enter- 
ing the gate of the grounds, which rise here, 
found themselves between two high banks of 
stone, covered mostly with ivy, and the graveled 
road wound round and round, it seemed, nearly 
a quarter of a mile. Suddenly, at a turn, the 
castle burst upon them ; the disused moat, long 
since dry; the great iron portcullis up, which 
they walked under, into a large oblong court, 
turned to the left, and touched the bell. The 
family was absent. A keeper appeared and led 
the way upstairs, ushering them into a long hall, 
the first part of which had family portraits ; the 
other was literally covered with armor and rel- 



62 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

ics of all sorts. From liere they passed into 
Lady Warwick's boudoir, all white and gold, 
with famous people on the walls, among them a 
little portrait of Bluif King Hal when a child. 
The Princess whispered to Marjorie that it was 
hard to realize that young thing growing into 
the unscrupulous ogre that he later became, 
though he was not good-looking then. 

In Queen Anne's room, following the above, 
was some of her furniture. The covers on the 
bed and chairs were elegant, but much worn. 
After this, a series of rich parlors ; at the front 
end, a library of immense size — a huge chimney 
here for log iire, though one saw steam heaters 
about. Near a large window, with seat across 
it, was a tremendous iron pot with feet, said to 
have belonged to the '^King Maker." This 
Marjorie thought was large enough to feed a 
whole regiment. 

From this window one sees the sweet Avon 
flowing by with a gentle murmur under over- 
hanging shrubbery. This, with large, graceful 
trees and the undulating landscape, charm the 
artistic eye and raise the poetic soul to realms 
of ecstasy unknown to those of less delicate 
timbre. The visitors were breathless with de- 
light. The courts seem simply grass plots. The 
castle, like most castles, rambles around indis- 
criminately, meeting at various places, forming 
the courts; the sides often forming the wall to 
the place ; the outlines of the moat, where visible, 
filled with undergrowth. The flower garden 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 63 

seems to be on the side opposite the Avon, for, 
leaving the building and going across a lawn, 
they reached an arch in the wall of the castle 
proper, which showed a handsome terraced 
walk, with groups of trees and shrubbery, then 
the flowers, with fountains and statues (lions 
and human figures), were spread in luxury be- 
fore one. 

In the greenhouse, facing this, stood a great 
ancient vase in stone, carved and brought from 
Rome, the great storehouse of antiquity. 

At the town of Warwick, situated right at the 
entrance gate, is an old hospice where twelve 
veterans secured a home in the early days, 
which, having fallen into disuse, was revived by 
Leicester, in remorse, Marjorie thought, for his 
treatment of Amy, and other delinquencies, per- 
haps. Here the party shook hands with a vet- 
eran of Balaklava. He was in a comfortable 
room, with a wife and a cheerful fire, and 
seemed good for some years yet. 

Twelve veterans were here. The chapel, 
long ago dismantled, is converted into a coal- 
house, and each one has his coal bin and a key 
to it. Each has his particular row of pease or 
other vegetables, and the garden is a charming 
place in which to wander. 

Eeturning to Leamington, they drove over to 
Stratford and stopped at the Eed Horse Hotel, 
where Washington Irving stayed. A room is 
set apart on the ground floor near the entrance, 
called his room. It contains his portrait and 



64' What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

other mementos. A kinsman of his Majesty had 
traveled with him and Sir David Wilkie, and 
the party felt a deeper interest in it than they 
might otherwise have done. 

Shakespeare's home — a half -timber house, in 
a straight line from the hotel — ^was the first 
place they visited. It is not directly on the 
Avon, but a pleasant walk from it. It was a 
great pleasure for them to see the very room 
he was born in, to look through the little win- 
dows from which his childish eyes must have 
caught some of the glint storing up and accu- 
mulating in that mighty brain ; to see the stairs 
he pattered up and down, night and day, and the 
portrait of him, considered the, truest extant. 

Marjorie bought souvenirs all the way as she 
returned to the Red Horse for luncheon. 

Afterward the party drove out to Anne Hath- 
away 's cottage, in the suburbs. She was some- 
what of a belle, it seems, and Shakespeare was 
not her only admirer. She had pleasant rooms 
to entertain her friends in. The hedge at the 
side, the flowers near the house, the vegetables 
beyond, the thatched roof are charming to the 
eye. Inside it is very cozy — old blue china 
abounding on the shelves, great fireplaces with 
seats inside. Marjorie and the Princess each 
sat on opposite sides of the chimney as they 
went in the rooms, chairs being placed conven- 
ient here to show the old style. They wondered 
how the Bard of Avon entertained her — if he 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 65 

told her of his ambitions, or if he only talked 
nonsense to her. Up a winding stair two little 
bedrooms are shown, one containing the bed 
Anne was born on and holding the bedding then 
used. It is a carved, four-posted bed, with tes- 
ter above. Marjorie said it was just like one 
her great-grandma owned. 

Passing the flower-bowered home of Marie 
Corelli, they drove to the school of King Ed- 
ward VI, where Shakespeare sat and learned, 
and where he saw the first play. It is still used 
as a school, the old, worn, whittled desks also 
there; but Shakespeare's desk has been taken 
away — only the spot indicated. 

The Church of the Holy Trinity is beautifully 
situated on a rise of the Avon's bank. It is ap- 
proached by a walk under an avenue of lime 
trees, in an old-fashioned graveyard surround- 
ing the church. Inside, on the left, within the 
chancel, lies all that is mortal of this remark- 
able man. There were other tombs within, but 
none inspiring such interest. 

Taking a small steamboat, run by a m.an and 
his little boy by means of a small boiler in the 
center, the party glided softly along the Avon, 
alive with other boats ; bordered by trees ; over- 
looked by charming homes with sloping: banks ; 
the Park; the beautiful Shakespeare Memorial 
Building; and animals loitering on the e^reen. 

The artistic sweep of the bank at The Holy 
Trinity one sees looking up at the trees, the 
branches of which hang over the wall and 



66 What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 

shade the river walk just beMnd; the old mill 
on the opposite side; all, all are entrancing; and 
the Conntess still says : 

^ ' Never can I forget the Avon, the peace, the 
life, the charm, and, above all, the many asso- 
ciations with Shakespeare. ' ' 

The Shakespeare Memorial Building contains 
much of interest pertaining to him and is worth 
a thorough inspection. 

A bisque bust of Shakespeare which Marjorie 
bought at a shop near his birthplace was 
wrapped in soft paper and put in her hand-bag 
as her especial charge. If the bag happened to 
fall, other than lightly, under any one else's 
supervision, in the hurry of travel, she would 
grumble about somebody trying to kill her 
Shakespeare. It had to be purchased rather 
small to get into the bag, but the valises were 
handled by too many to be strictly safe ; besides, 
all except his Majesty's were stuffed pretty 
tight ; the Countess was putting some of her ac- 
cumulations in, and it was not so very empty, 
after all. His Majesty predicted he would have 
to get another before long, and thereby add to 
his burdens. Marjorie and she replied that there 
was no use going abroad if one could not bring 
back some mementos, and, having two against 
him, he subsided. 

After one leaves England every pound of bag- 
gage is charged for, except what is taken in 
valises and hand-bags along with one in the car ; 
so one is weighed down with small baggage 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 67 

(which accumulates from day to day) in every 
train to the end of the journey. 

As to Oxford, which they had now reached, 
Marjorie of course knew something, but was not 
prepared for the numerous handsome colleges 
scattered over the city. The guide told her there 
were about twenty-four of them. Each one she 
saw seemed large enough for a university itself. 

The main one, or the newest, perhaps, is the 
Magdalen, confronting the clear, shallow, peb- 
bly Cherwell River, a stream which looks about 
thirty feet wide at this point, and is crossed by a 
rustic bridge. It seemed like a palace, with its 
buildings running around courts, its statues, its 
flowers, and its sweet, silent places for thought- 
ful students and others to stroll in. A long walk 
attained by the bridge mentioned is pre-emi- 
nently a fitting place for a student. Opposite 
the building it stretches along the lovely Cher- 
well beneath a row of trees, so mingling their 
branches above as to form a delicious shade, 
with seats here and there, then sweeps away off 
to a dim distance, amid curves of green beauty, 
through a bright meadow of light and life. They 
also went through one of the older buildings, 
containing, among other items of interest, a 
statue of the poet Shelley — he whom they ex- 
pelled for the audacity of his belief, but whom 
they now honor in this way. 

Marjorie had always had a regret for ^^poor 
Shelley,^' as she called him, in her romantic 



6S What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

view of life, and was pleased to know that his 
genius had been recognized in so marked a man- 
ner. ^^He was forgiven as The King on High 
may forgive, ' ^ she said nnder her breath. 

Keturning to London, they remained a few 
days to rest from so mnch junketing around. 
The Countess said she had a little housekeeping 
to do; that is, the arranging of the trunks, a 
little mending of gloves, and other articles 
which needed tidying up a bit, before going on 
the Continent. Yet these did not occupy the 
whole time — there were too many interesting 
places to visit to allow them to. 

All the party went once to the National Gal- 
lery in London, but his Majesty went every op- 
portunity he had, so great was his love of art. 

Piccadilly Circus was a curious place to Mar- 
jorie, and she always craned her neck when they 
came to it to see if she could tell exactly how it 
was shaped, the houses went round in such a 
peculiar way. 

At Leamington his Majesty got acquainted 
with two young men he found in the parlors at 
the Regent, where the party assembled in the 
evening. From their conversation the young 
men seemed to have traveled considerably, and 
he, asking them for information as to his route, 
received very civil answers. We shall call them 
Ealph Duke and Peter Smith. They were from 
near Beaumont, Texas. 

Ealph was quite fine-looking and youthful in 
appearance, while Peter seemed a little older, 



What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 69 

perhaps because his complexion was not so fresh 
as that of the other, and he had such a peculiar, 
interesting face. Marjorie said it called to mind 
some squashes she had seen — a little nubbin 
here for a nose and a little projection there for 
a chin. Ealph's good looks made a striking con- 
trast, and, if he had ever thought of it, he had 
chosen wisely in this particular. But Peter was 
neat in his apparel, even stylish. He was witty 
and had a flattering manner, which gave him 
the entree wherever he chose to appear. 

The Princess remarked aside to Marjorie that 
Peter was '^ great fun,'' and that she would not 
mind having him all the way. Ealph's father, 
and Peter's, too, in a measure, had speculated 
successfully in oil at the time of the great excite- 
ment at Beaumont, and the former had sent 
Ralph, for whom he was very ambitious, abroad 
to see the world, but especially to hunt up, some- 
where in Ireland, a title concerning which he had 
the proper papers, and which would make him 
and his heirs the Earl of Rosscommon, if he 
took the time to establish his claim. 

The father was a pompous old man, while 
Ralph thought the United States good enough 
for him without a title; and being, for this rea- 
son, in no hurry to investigate, he and Peter 
went all over the country, even to Russia, Tur- 
key and Egypt, intending to take in Ireland on 
the return; but he caught a glimpse of Marjorie 
in the garden at dusk one cloudy evening at 



70 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

Leamington, and when Peter appealed to his 
honor and everything under the sun — ^they had 
been there long enough to do the place — there 
was no getting Ealph away, so he thought he 
might as well make the best of it. Finding the 
Princess and her party very entertaining, it was 
no trouble to do so ; for, after conversing with 
the young men a while and adroitly drawing 
them out, his Majesty had a very good opinion 
of them and introduced them to the ladies. 

Peter was of good family and Ealph, as we 
see, well born, and had always been well-to-do. 
He had gone to college, like other young men of 
means, so he was already accomplished when 
he started abroad. His father was born in the 
United States, but his grandfather was the 
younger son of an Irish peer, and had impressed 
his son with the dignity of his lineage. When 
the title came to him the property was so in- 
volved it did not enable him to assume it, and 
he was not in a position to do so on the proper 
scale until his recent success mentioned. 

In conversing with his Majesty, Ealph men- 
tioned the names of some mutual friends, and 
the meeting with the young men turned out to 
be a pleasant coincidence. In telling of their 
return trip across the English Channel, Peter 
said the boat rolled so over the high waves the 
passengers were lurched about every way, and 
that a red cravat he had on getting wet, the dye 
ran all over his shirt front, making him look 
for a time as if he had been in a sanguinary bat- 



What Marjorie Saiv "Abroad 71 

tie. Hearing this, the party did not look for- 
ward to a pleasant trip on the Channel. 

When his Majesty's party left Leamington 
the two new acquaintances bid them farewell 
with proper ceremony, and two exquisite 
bunches of flowers were sent — one to Marjorie, 
the other to the Princess — and a tempting bas- 
ket of fruit to the Countess and his Majesty, 
from which fluttered their cards as our tourists 
proceeded to show their appreciation of these 
gifts. 

The Princess said she did like to meet South- 
erners — that they never did things by halves. 

Marjorie, for the first time in her life on an 
interesting occasion, was silent. Perhaps she 
did a deal of thinking. 



CHAPTER VII 

At Newhaven they crossed tlie Engiish Chan- 
nel for Dieppe, Prance. The latter is a fashion- 
able watering place. As the boat moved slowly 
in the travelers felt entirely cnt loose from home 
at the thought of hearing only French at every 
turn. 

The monopoly of a foreign tongue gives a 
helpless feeling at first, and the person who 
speaks several languages with ease is the one 
to be envied while traveling. But Cook's man, 
with ^X'ook" on his cap, is usually at the sta- 
tion, and will give information. 

His Majesty and family wanted to stop at a 
pension in Paris to see what it was like. The 
Princess knew of one in the heart of the city, 
where there was little or no noise at night, and 
here they stopped, not more than a few blocks 
from the Champs Elysees. Marjorie said it was 
very nice and homelike. Everybody sat at a 
long table at once, at lunch and dinner, and got 
acquainted. It reminded one of a big boarding- 
house. Breakfast was taken as one wished it. 

His Majesty lost time, though; all the hus- 
bandless ladies called on the men to do what 
they did not know how to do for themselves, 

7^ 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 73 

Cook's office has a bureau of information, gratis, 
and it is not so difficult to manage when this is 
found. The Countess thought the pension good 
for a change. One got more with other people 
who were traveling, and could exchange ideas, 
as most of the boarders were English-speaking 
people, some going the way around and others 
returning. The Princess liked one social way 
they had at the pension — after dinner those who 
wished it could retire to the parlor and pour out 
a cup of tea from a nice tea set, which was quite 
refreshing after the day's excursions. After 
chatting a little, the many scattered, while some 
remained till bedtime. 

The Countess's room was a very good one, 
but she discovered, after she had slept in it one 
night and gotten more familiar with its details, 
that there was another door than she had count- 
ed on. On first entering the room, just after her 
arrival, she noticed a brass knob, but, in the 
hurry for lunch, thought it some bell arrange- 
ment. On investigating, later, she found what 
at a glance she thought to be only the joining 
of the wall paper, near it, to be the outlines of 
a door. There was no key, nor any place for 
one. Opening it, she found there a passage with 
a window looking 'way down into a narrow, dark 
court, and farther on, at the end of the passage, 
a door. Finding this door locked, she felt reas- 
sured, though she wished she had found a key 
in it; and the wall-papered door not locking, 
Marjorie went in every night and piled some 



74 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

furniture against it, before her mother retired, 
as a precaution against invasion. The deep, 
dark court, more like a well, suggested the sin- 
ister days of mediaeval times. 

On the Continent many hotels are modernized 
castles or palaces, and it is thought by some that 
the nobles made these secret places as means 
of escape during the wars with each other and 
different nations. At hotels there is always a 
place or a small room set apart near the en- 
trance, called a concierge, where a man or a 
woman stays and keeps the keys. The man in- 
variably has a pair of keys crossed on the lapel 
of his coat where a boutonniere might be worn 
by another man. 

Paris has plenty of street cars, called trams. 
They are clumsy-looking affairs of two stories, 
and the party, not being familiar with the 
routes, preferred the hacks, at a franc and fifty 
centimes for two, and twenty-five centimes for 
the coachman, making altogether thirty-five 
cents of United States money. They are similar 
to the hackney carriages in London. They can 
be hired by the hour also. Soon after their ar- 
rival the party hastened to the Place de la Con- 
corde. It is a great, paved, open space, with 
fountains, statues and lights. In its center is 
the Egyptian obelisk, and around the statues of 
the eight principal cities of France. That one 
representing Strasburg, and taken by Germany, 
is draped in mourning wreaths from day to day. 
Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were executed 



What Marjorie Satv Abroad 75 

where the obelisk now stands. Facing the Place 
de la Concorde, a little distance off, is the Made- 
leine, a grand cathedral. On one side of the 
Place de la Concorde is the Champs Elysees, a 
wide street bordered with sidewalks, between a 
double row of elms and limes, flower gardens, 
pavilions and seats, nearly clear on ont to near a 
highly ornamented stone arch called the ''Arch 
de I'etoile du nord," because the streets radiate 
from here, where one enters the Eue de Bou- 
logne, or "Bolun" (as the Frenclnnen call it) on 
to the Bois de Boulogne, a wooded place of many 
acres, containing lakes, islands (joined by pretty 
bridges to the mainland), tea-houses, and woods 
so dense one really imagines at times that it 
must be in the forest, where there is a farm- 
house — ^belonging to the park — a show place, 
where one can alight and get a glass of milk. 

On the other side of the Place de la Concorde 
are the Tuileries gardens, a long, large, partly 
enclosed stretch of trees, flowers, fountains, 
marble figures of many kinds, shady nooks ; then 
suddenly a luxuriant vista of flowers appears — 
and beyond, the Arc de Triomphe. 

The English coachman sarcastically said Na- 
poleon I had prepared it to take the English 
under, and seemed naturally elated that it never 
happened. 

In traveling on the Continent it saves time 
and worry employing English-speaking people, 
if they can be had, though the Englishman re- 
ferred to beat his Majesty out of a dollar in re- 



76 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

turning change, because he perceived he was 
not exactly familiar with the country's coin. 
After this his Majesty invariably studied the 
coin when he changed countries. 

Beyond the Arch of Napoleon, just mentioned, 
is the Louvre, now used as a storehouse for 
works of art, and one wonders at the number of 
rooms tilled to repletion. The real Venus de 
Milo is among the beauties there; the Apollo 
Belvedere, copy of that at the Vatican; Cupid 
and Psyche, after Canova (celebrated Italian 
artist, born 1757 A.D.) ; the Eenaissance collec- 
tion, and so on a^ infinitum. 

The Venus de Milo was found (1820) by a 
peasant at Milo, an island in the archipelago, 
and is attributed to a pupil of the Greek sculp- 
tor, Scopas (380 B. C), and contemporary with 
Philip of Macedon. The arms are missing, but 
no one dreams of attempting to supply them. 
The Apollo Belvedere is in better condition, and 
is a symbol of manly excellence in every par- 
ticular, as it should be with one who was one of 
the leading heathen gods, set on a pinnacle to 
worship. 

Cupid has pointed wings, and is bending over 
Psyche, who herself is reclining somewhat. The 
latter, in mythological lore, was a mortal and 
the daughter of a king. She was so beautiful 
she thus incurred the dislike of Venus, the ac- 
knowledged Queen of Beauty, who sent her 
son Cupid to make Psyche enamoured of an 
unworthy person; but Cupid fell in love with 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 11 

her Mmself and introduced lier to tlie Graces. 
Tliey lived in a fairy palace, and she was 
under a vow not to look at him with 
mortal eyes; but, abetted by her jealous 
sisters, of whom she had two, she lighted a 
lamp for the very purpose ; a drop falling on his 
face awoke him, and he left in anger. He was 
imprisoned by his mother, who searched for 
Psyche to punish her. She inquired of Juno 
and other powerful goddesses, but in vain ; then 
she appealed to Jupiter, who sent Mercury after 
her. Venus put Psyche through many hard- 
ships, which she accomplished. The last one 
was to get a box from Hades ; but alas ! her curi- 
osity caused her to raise the lid, and the fumes 
suffocated her. Cupid, having gotten out of 
prison, happened along, and restored her. He 
asked Jove to allow them to marry, which he 
did; and Psyche, quaffing a potion presented to 
her, after the manner of the gods, became im- 
mortal. This is all very mythical, but the 
beauty of conception in the ancient hy|3erbole of 
thought, and the attractive design, are worthy 
of distinction. 

The talking basins, two red stone affairs 
nearly as large as a moderate-sized room, and 
elevated on a pedestal, carry the human voice 
from one to the other across a long hall. The 
guide said that they were called preaching ba- 
sins, and that they came from Greece. The min- 
ister talking near either one, the congregation 
could hear more distinctly than otherwise. The 



78 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

party had some very amnsing conversations 
over the basins. Marjorie said they were better 
than telephones. 

Being a rainy day, they took luncheon at F. 
Jammet's, 8 Eue de Valois, Palais Eoyal, not 
far from the Louvre, and returned to finish the 
day. 

On the Champs Elysees there is an ever-vary- 
ing scene. Automobiles of yellow, white, red 
and blue, and of every description and shape, 
go flying by; omnibuses with people inside and 
on their roofs, little winding stairs going up to 
them ; carriages, all styles ; and people innumer- 
able, afoot or sitting on chairs under trees, mak- 
ing merry — some even with their sewing. And 
children of all ages are playing about, tended by 
nurses in fancy caps with long streamers. Some 
of these caps were all white; some had a coronet 
of ribbon in Roman colors ; some all black and 
tied in a wide bow large enough for a dress 
sash, nearly covering the whole head and stick- 
ing out at the sides. One has to be alert in cross- 
ing the Champs Elysees to keep from being run 
over; the party getting run over gets sued, 
which adds to the difficulty. Friends seem to 
use the shady parts as a reception place in the 
afternoon. One sees a small crowd increase to 
a large party, seated (at four sous a seat), and 
jabbering French in a wonderful fashion. 

From the great Alexander bridge which 
crosses the Seine, and which is grandly adorned 
with golden-winged horses and statues, they 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 79 

walked down a great marble stairway, of whicb. 
there are two, bearing down from the bridge to 
the water \s edge on each side of the river — 
guarded by white stone lions. Here they took 
a small steamboat to Sevres, where the costly 
china of that name is made. One little cup and 
saucer was priced at twenty-five dollars. The 
buildings and premises are not unlike those of 
a small palace in appearance and quality. 

The Seine is very attractive. The edges 
curbed, fine buildings on the bank, pretty slopes 
in front, and boats going under the many, many 
bridges, decorated with statues of Tritons, 
water nymphs, and every conceivable figure. 

The Madeleine is one round of elegance. Ser- 
vice was going on when the party happened 
in, and, as well as one could see for the crowd, 
Marjorie said the whole edifice seemed of carved 
marble, and that the outside resembled the Pan- 
theon, which she had seen driving around the 
city. The beadle was as tall as a giant and 
finely dressed in red-and-gold coat, with black 
knee breeches, black stockings, and low shoes 
with large buckles, and a black hat with a red 
feather, and gold trimmings. He carried a long, 
handsome wand, and was imposing, but his Maj- 
esty thought he would be more appropriate in 
a place of amusement ; yet the elegance of him 
was in keeping with the other accompaniments. 

The Cathedral of Notre Dame is full of great 
gray-stone columns forming arches above, but 
these columns are not in line. Around the side 



80 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 

are alcoves with altars adorned with marble fig- 
ures of saints, each barred off by a railing and 
gate. A marble monk in one of these alcoves, 
or rooms, or chapels, whatever they are called, 
has such well-designed lace on his gown that 
even when Marjorie touched it she found it dif- 
ficult to believe that it was not real. 

The main altar has beautiful, life-size white 
statues representing the Virgin Mary and 
Christ after His crucifixion, and a French king 
on either side, which Marjorie took for Louis 
Xin and XIV, but told otherwise. 

The choir — as it is in all the cathedrals — fine- 
ly carved in dark wood, occupies each side of the 
space directly in front of the altar. 

The Grand Opera House in Paris is thought 
to be the largest in the world. The party saw 
here the beautiful opera of ' ' Lohengrin, ^ ' which, 
of course, was elegantly rendered. 

The Princess said this was what she called 
traveling for pleasure. 

Outside the stage and auditorium there is a 
collection of halls, upstairs and down, and a gal- 
lery in front, looking over the city, thronged 
with the audience between the acts. His Majesty 
and Marjorie went exploring, and lost their way 
around the building among the labyrinth of pil- 
lars and network of stairs ; but a gendarme put 
them right. 

Of course, each lady of the party had to have 
one dress, at least, made at Worth's or Red- 
fern's; so they sent his Majesty off by himself, 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 81 

as lie naturally cared nothmg for these places, 
and took these establishments in. It seemed to 
be the dull season at Worth's, and they had 
more time to exhibit their finery, which gave the 
ladies ample opportunity to select something an- 
swering to their purses and their inclinations. 
Worth would undertake nothing under a hun- 
dred dollars. What a number of handsome 
rooms, and what a retinue of well-dressed men 
and women, in the house's employ, were stand- 
ing about! The skirts were paraded by a tall 
girl, who was not particularly in a hurry to take 
them off, they were so swell and becoming. The 
waists were brought in on models. 

Marjorie selected the "sweetest gown in the 
world," she said — blue and pink. 

At Kedfern's it was later in the day when they 
entered, which, perhaps, accounted for more 
people being there than at Worth's. The Coun- 
tess and the Princess ordered gowns here. All 
were to be ready for them near the end of their 
stay, as the trunks were to be packed and 
shipped to Florence. Going through the moun- 
tains and lakes of Switzerland and Italy they 
would not need more than their hand-bags and 
valises could supply. They went to many stores, 
but the Magazins de Louvre was the ladies ' fa- 
vorite shopping place. Here there were very 
courteous English-speaking clerks to attend to 
one's wants. 

At the Place des Invalides the party saw the 
great red sarcophagus of Napoleon I, in a ro- 



S2 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

tunda under the gilded dome, with many grand 
marble figures around it. In the rear of the 
chapel, and adjoining the tomb, the inscription 
in French to bury him on the Seine, among the 
people he loved, is touching. And no doubt they 
did and do love him, for a French lady told the 
Countess it was his great love for humanity 
which inspired him to endeavor to unite the 
whole world under one government. 

The Countess had thought it a love of power, 
of adulation, and could not imagine any sensible 
person thinking otherwise. The lady being a 
very accomplished one, the Countess was aghast 
with astonishment. 

Ah, she thought, would he have divorced the 
wife he loved so well, would he have been so 
anxious for an heir, had ego not been his watch- 
word? But the decided views of the French 
lady silenced her. Yet not till she went to 
France, went to Versailles, to Fontainebleau, 
to the Grrand Trianon and other places did she 
realize the unparalleled brilliancy of the man 
in acquiring so much for himself. The beauty, 
the luxury of these places, the wealth — it cannot 
be told. 

At Versailles, the trees ; the fountain (by the 
entrance gate), a great basin reveling in beauti- 
ful and grotesque figures showering water ; then 
a long walk up hill, gently sloping, with a line 
of artistic smaller fountains either side, between 
a mass of trees ; the garden proper, containing 
lake after lake, led down to by broad stone 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 83 

steps; other fountains; other trees leading — in 
beauty of statuary, terraces and flowers — one 
cannot see where. In the Royal Court is an 
equestrian statue (looking toward the gate) of 
Louis XIV, who built the palace mostly. Within 
the palace is most gorgeous. La Galerie de 
Glace, a marvel of beauty, in mirrors and win- 
dows, the bedroom of Louis XIV, testify to its 
greatness and the wit of Napoleon in obtaining 
all for himself. 

By ^^ Galerie'' is meant a long, wide room or 
salon. The room is shown from which Marie 
Antoinette escaped by a door in the wall which 
led down to a private stairway. The door no 
longer has a picture in front of it, as it is usually 
represented. 

The fountains at Versailles play only on the 
first and third Sundays of each month, from 
May to September, so it is best to wait for these 
days, if one can do so, to see the place in all its 
glory. 

At the town of St. Cloud, on the way, some 
halted and walked around to where the palace 
of the same name once stood — now only a mem- 
ory — ^which the park and gardens keep fresh for 
the tourist. It was very steep, up-hill business 
getting on the heights in town, but the exceed- 
ingly beautiful view was the reward. 

One can go by boat to St. Cloud on the Seine 
and return by tramway to Paris, getting off at 
the Louvre, but the party found it convenient 



84: What Marjorie Saw Ahroa 

to drive, as they wanted to take in as much as 
possible during the day. 

After St. Cloud, the Grand Trianon, erected 
by Louis XIV for Madame de Maintenon, was 
explored — a luxurious palace and grounds, not 
far from Versailles (which came last in the 
day's routine). 

Outside the palace gate of the Grand Trianon 
state coaches, royal sedan chairs and the golden 
coach of Charles X were exhibited. The Petit 
Trianon, not far off, is where Marie Antoinette 
played the dairy maid when the trammels of 
royalty became too irksome for her gay nature 
to bear. 

Having arrived at Versailles and taken lun- 
cheon in the town, the party were standing 
about waiting for all to assemble for going to 
the palace, when Marjorie was accosted by an 
old woman, who showed her some views of the 
principal places in France by making her look 
through the centers of some pretty blue violets 
and red roses fastened on the end of a cravat 
pin. She thought she had stumbled upon some 
very pretty souvenirs and picked out a dozen 
or more, each with a different view — they took 
so little room and were so cute and delicate- 
looking; besides, the pleasant surprises her 
friends would have, when she presented them, 
on discovering there was a picture within the 
petals. 

Eeturning from the day's trip to Paris, the 
fortifications, which were very much in evidence, 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 85 

were the subject of discnssion by the party. 
They actually seemed forbidding in a time of 
peace and jollity. 

Fontainebleau is quite a little journey from 
Paris — about forty miles. A tramway or drive 
leads to the palace from the station. Our party 
chose the drive. Handsome outside steps make 
the appearance of the palace very elegant as one 
approaches. These are of stone, and have a nice 
railing. They curve as they ascend, and are 
joined by a porch in front of the palace. The 
ascent is so gradual it is no effort to go up and 
down. The Countess thought them the loveliest 
she had ever seen. 

However, the party entered through a door 
under these steps, getting to the second story by 
a broad flight of inner stairs, and came out by 
the outside. Palace steps are usually inside the 
building, which adds to the latter in a great 
measure within, but a pair of handsome outside 
steps are so embellishing to a facade. As far as 
the furnishings are concerned, Fontainebleau 
seems to suit the tourists more than the other 
palaces. Eoom after room rival one another in 
grandeur; ceilings frescoed in every conceiv- 
able manner ; framed in Cupids and elegant fig- 
ures, stretching out and hanging in relief. 

The salon of Henry II has no furnishings, but 
it needs none. The whole room is literally cov- 
ered with gold and works of art in fresco and 
mural decorations. It has a study in itself for 
days. 



86 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 

The Countess wondered where the money 
came from to produce these wonders. The 
French lady before mentioned informed her that 
art was not so costly then as now. Perhaps 
there are fewer who can do it well at present, 
and there may be less demand for it. Francis I 
started the im_provement and others added to 
its elegance. The Galerie de Francis I is grand- 
ly adorned in allegories by Eosso Rossi. Andrea 
del Sarto, Leonardo de Vinci and Benvenuto 
Cellini executed many of the decorations for 
Frances I, who spent great sums on it. The 
Salle de Conseil was decorated by Boucher. 

Napoleon I made Fontainebleau a sump- 
tuous place to dwell in. The floor of his recep- 
tion-room is elaborately inlaid and contains no 
rugs to conceal it. Where there is no tapestry 
in the palace the walls are gilded. There are 
mosaic tables in exquisite patterns, mirrors, 
dressing-rooms, with bath for the Queen or Em- 
press Josephine, and great state beds, with 
rich hanging;s in silk brocade and gold. The 
bed of Napoleon I stands sideways against an 
immense mirror in the wall. Whichever way 
he turned he could see all around him. The 
room is red and gold — monarchs' favorite 
colors. 

The throne-room is red and gold. The chair, 
on a dais under a handsome red and gold can- 
opy, has a large gold ^^N'' in the center of the 
back. Crystal chandeliers hang from the ceiling. 

The rooms he put at the disposal of Pope Pius 



What Marjorie Saiu Abroad 87 

VII when he made him prisoner for discounter 
nancing his divorce from Josephine are large 
and exquisite in the extreme. The tapestry on 
the walls and the carpets match the furniture 
and are in beautiful taste. If they were so when 
the Pope used them, he could not have had so 
bad a time^^ — and it seems they were. 

After lunching they drove through the beau- 
tiful woods of Fontainebleau, which the coach- 
man was so proud of they could hardly induce 
him to return and drive back to the station in 
time to catch the train. The woods are fifty 
miles around, and are the handsomest in la belle 
France. 

Marjorie said she must see Pere Lachaise — • 
that it was such a quaint, peculiar name it must 
be interesting. It was a long drive from the 
heart of Paris to this abode of the dead, but the 
tomb of Abelard takes the fancy of youth, and is 
here. After a long walk and a search they found 
it — two figures stretched at length under a 
Gothic pavilion made of fragments from the 
convent of which he was abbot. 

There was no grass or leaf in reach that Mar- 
jorie could pluck as a memento. A high, black 
iron fence shielded the plants from invasion, so 
she reached under and took a pebble. 

At all the places she had been she had man- 
aged to get a flower or leaf — even a blade of 
grass was better than nothing. Her father, to 
tease her, called it ^ ^ filching, ' ' much to her dis- 
gust. She thought it enterprising to have a 



88 What Marjorie Saw "Abroad 

collection of European flowers and leaves in Iter 
herbarium, and said so few people took the 
trouble her little assortment did not make any 
ravages whatever. When the keepers saw she 
wanted them they gave them to her, attracted 
by her beauty and naivete; and she sometimes 
found them on the ground, or got wild ones. 

In Pere Lachaise there are walks as in other 
cemeteries, and in places there is dense shade. 
The tombs are close together, and walking up 
the roadway from the entrance there is a sudden 
rise, in which marble steps lead up to a chapel, 
where only those go in who wish to pray for the 
souls of their dead; but the party was allowed 
to stand in the door and look about quietly from 
that point. All in all, Pere Lachaise is a solemn- 
looking place, but fascinating from its weird- 
ness, and grandly immense. In the northeast 
corner is the Mussulman burial-ground — the 
''Four Crematoire," with two huge chimneys 
erected for burning the bodies, and compart- 
ments for receiving the ashes. 

The Pantheon, a sort of Temple of Fame, is 
beautiful inside with mural decorations, and is 
the abode of rest for many who attained celeb- 
rity. It was once a church, and is now sometimes 
called St. Genevieve. Large paintings of her 
on the wall are very handsome, among others. 
The outside is a little similar to the one at Eome, 
but, of course, not so large or so celebrated. 
Inside, an artist was sitting at the right, sketch- 
ing a mural scene of sheep in a pasture. His 



What Marjorie Saiu Abroad 89 

Majesty, hoping to get some light on the subject 
of the decorations, accosted him. Chatting with 
him, he found the Frenchman very agreeable 
and unusually well informed and intelligent, 
and finally made an arrangement to meet him 
at his house, after exchanging cards with him. 
Marjorie said she would like to go, too. Next 
morning the two got in a cab and soon found 
themselves in the neighborhood of the direc- 
tions. They alighted and entered a gate which 
led to an archway, under which seemed a long, 
stone, two-story house, with a nice hedge in 
front of it, and another along a fence (adjacent 
to the sidewalk) , a pebbled walk between. Going 
a little way under the arch, they saw a bell, with 
directions to ring. Touching it, what seemed to 
be an old gardener came along, and his Majesty 
showing him the Frenchman's card, they were 
taken a little farther back through a pretty gar- 
den filled with beds of flowers and pebbly walks 
till they came to what seemed a little two-story 
house with a large, tall, one-story room at the 
right. Leaving them here, the man went on his 
way. 

Marjorie touched the bell, and pretty soon a 
little lady opened the door and invited them into 
what an American would call a reception-hall. 
A stair from here led to the rooms overhead. 
There was another room on the first floor, 
back of the stairs, in which Marjorie imagined 
that light housekeeping was carried on ; for, as 
soon as the lady had informed the artist (her 



90 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

husband), after introducing herself, that there 
were some people to see him, she went into the 
little room mentioned and brought out a pot of 
tea, and placed it on a little table which she had 
already set out for her breakfast, and invited 
his Majesty and Marjorie to partake. It was 
then nine o'clock, the engagement having been 
set for that time, and, to keep it, his Majesty 
and Marjorie had had an early breakfast. They 
thanked her kindly and declined ; but it was very 
fragrant, and Marjorie was half-way sorry she 
had not accepted, for it was a little chilly. 

The lady proceeded to drink her tea, after 
putting in a lump of sugar, and munched a piece 
of bread from a Japanese bread tray, talking 
art all the time in a graceful, refined way till 
her husband came down. 

Perceiving that he had not yet breakfasted, 
his Majesty begged him not to wait, so his wife 
poured him a cup of tea; but they were all so 
interested in art the tea was nearly cold before 
he fairly got it down. When the empty teacup 
was set aside they all went into the large glass 
room, which proved to be the studio, and began 
to talk art in earnest. 

The sun flooded the room, which looked out 
upon the flower garden before described, the 
back giving a sweet view of the neighbors ' tiny 
yards ; and altogether these two lived up in the 
clouds, and loved art for its own sake. 

The wife said they sometimes took dinner in 
the garden, which Marjorie thought must b^ 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 91 

lovely. The two had traveled everywhere in 
the United States, even in Mexico, and knew 
Europe as well, if not better. Marjorie thought 
they were the most entertaining and refined peo- 
ple she ever saw. Both spoke English with so 
little accent it would not have been noticed if 
they had not announced the land of their birth. 
They had lived some time in New York. He said 
that Paris was now the seat of art; that Paris 
was the place for an artist to begin (they were 
rather young people) ; that if one wanted only 
the wing of a chicken one could buy it; that if 
one wanted a silk hat to wear to a wedding or 
to a funeral one could rent that; even a pair 
of gloves, a coat, anything, from the smallest 
detail up, and that there were one hundred and 
fifty thousand artists in Paris, many needing 
just such accommodations. 

Marjorie said, innocently : 

*'I wonder they all don't get together some- 
times and have a feast." 

The artist replied that no doubt they would 
enjoy very much having one, but many of them 
were usually too poor to indulge. 

Now, his Majesty was hospitable, and any- 
thing concerning art appealed to his affections. 
He invited the artist and his wife to take lun- 
cheon with the family at the pension next day. 
The former replied that his wife had an engage- 
ment to lunch with a countess, but that he would 
meet his Majesty at the pension next morning 
and go with him to the Louvre, and in the after- 



92 What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 

noon slie wonld join them at some interesting 
place lie had thought of. 

Marjorie said she was not going to let her 
papa go to the Louvre with a strange man none 
of them knew anything about — that was her 
real reason for going to the artist's home with 
him ; but she felt it was perfectly safe, now she 
had been introduced, and only got that up as an 
excuse to go to the Louvre. 

When the artist arrived next day, about ten 
o'clock, Marjorie and his Majesty were await- 
ing him. He said something had turned up to 
keep him from lunching with them, but he still 
could accompany them at once to the Louvre, 
and meet them with his wife at an appointed 
time and place in the afternoon. 

The Countess and the Princess were going 
elsewhere, and when his Majesty saw them in 
the cab, another was called, and the three went 
off to the Louvre. His Majesty had already told 
the Countess not to expect him to luncheon, that 
they would take it where they happened to be. 
In an hour or two the artist left them, and when 
they met him again, where he and his wife had 
appointed, they found that the wife was an ar- 
tist also. At times the four walked together 
and talked, then the wife and Marjorie would 
discuss things together. In a little while they 
got to knowing each other quite well, and Mar- 
jorie asked her if she had had a pleasant visit 
to the countess. 

*^0h, she is an invalid," the wife said, *^and 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 9 



o 



has never been in this place ; so she gets me to 
keep her informed on art matters, she loves art 



so.'^ 



That evening they parted, but Marjorie 
thought it was a delightful little peep into artist 
life, and wished them much prosperity in the 
future. Her only regret concerning them was 
that they did not believe in the Saviour. Mar- 
jorie was always interested in people's beliefs, 
and an opening for investigation on this subject 
was given in this way : 

The lady mentioned that in church architec- 
ture the figures became more and more ethereal 
as they went up — the saints first, the angels still 
higher, then the Saviour or the Virgin (in the 
Eoman Church). 

Marjorie then asked her what her belief was. 

^ ' I am not hampered by beliefs, ' ^ she replied. 

It is perhaps useless to say that Marjorie was 
shocked ; but the lady artist seemed a good little 
woman, and Marjorie hoped she might repent. 

The artist gave his Majesty many pointers 
on Paris and art at large, and the latter felt re- 
freshed and entertained in having met him. 

In driving about Paris his Majesty was de- 
lighted to see an equestrian statue of General 
Washington. 

He wanted to go in the sewers, but every one 
protested. AVhen he wanted to know why, the 
Princess said: 

* ^ You might get malaria down there, and we 
could not fiinish our trip.'' 



94 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

**It is very clean there/' lie replied. 

^^But," said Marjorie, ^^you might get 
drowned- ' ' 

^ ^ They are too careful for that, ' ' he replied. 

'^Well, if you go, I go,'' said the Countess, 
^ ^ and I do not care to go. ' ' 

^^That settles it," said his Majesty; so the 
poor man was routed again. 

They drove through the Latin Quarter, which 
Du Maurier has described so thoroughly, and 
he was somewhat appeased, but he grumbled out 
that the next time he went abroad it would be 
alone. They laughed at this thrust — they were 
all in one large carriage together this time^ — and 
told him he would have to learn French, German 
and Italian before he could do it as pleasantly 
as he was then, for even then he had not long 
since been heard to say that he was ^ Hired 
wrestling with foreigners," and he would nor 
go to Eussia and Austria because no one in the 
party could speak the languages. He had used 
the common idiom 'Wrestling" to make it more 
forceful. His Majesty was brave enough — he 
could not get things too exciting for him. When 
he proposed to go up the Eiffel Tower all ex- 
claimed in the negative, and said that they had 
seen all they wanted from the heights at St. 
Cloud. 

Each day he seemed eager to ascend in a bal- 
loon he saw floating as he happened to be in 
the Champs Elysees; they protesting and de- 
clining, he boldly said he was going alone. But 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 95 

immediately after this decision lie heard of a 
party who had gotten "stuck" up in the air 
overnight in the balloon, and he allowed himself 
to be dissuaded. Not that he would really not 
appreciate the experience of spending a night 
up in the purest part of the city, but time was 
valuable. It would take that much from the 
Louvre, in which he delighted. 

The garden of the Luxembourg is fascinating, 
and the Jardin des Plantes and Jardin d 'Accla- 
mation are especially enticing, the latter border- 
ing on the Bois de Boulogne. 

The Countess saw the gardeners working 
among the beds in one of the prettiest parts of 
the Jardins d 'Acclamation, and told the coach- 
man to stop and let her see the flowers. 

As she did so she bowed politely to the gar- 
deners and told them in French how well they 
kept them. In a few minutes a lovely bouquet 
was gathered by one of them and presented to 
the Countess. Marjorie and the Princess, com- 
ing up behind in their cab, looked quite envious. 
After teasing them a little, the Countess gave 
each a share. 

The new Hotel de Ville is probably the finest 
Eenaissance building in the world. The west 
facade is a beautiful example of sixteenth cen- 
tury architecture, with Corinthian columns, and 
fine pavilions in the center and at the corners. 
Niches hold statues of celebrated Parisians. It 
is situated between the Seine and Rue de Rivoli 
at the east end of the latter. The east side is 



96 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

very handsome, too. It is a sort of town hall, 
and there are different salles for the different 
departments. The Salles des Fetes, and large 
salon, on the first floor, are used for dinners, 
feasts, receptions, and the like. The staircase 
leading to this floor is exquisite. The decora- 
tions in the buildings surpass any in France. 
The best of Parisian art has been lavished on it. 
Elysees Palace, the President's residence, is 
very handsome and overlooks the Champs Ely- 
sees. 

St. Denis, four or five miles from Paris, is 
interesting for being the burial place of nearly 
all the French kings. The abbey was founded 
by Dagobert (628-638). It was pillaged several 
times during wars, and during the Eevolution 
(1793) it was devastated in a measure — the 
bronze tombs melted, the graves desecrated ; and 
not till the reign of Louis XVIII were the scat- 
tered remnants returned. Later, during the 
reign of Napoleon III, the abbey began to as- 
sume somewhat its original appearance. In the 
chapel of the nave are the tombs of Louis XII 
and Ann of Brittany, Henry II and Catherine 
de Medici — the last named a masterpiece, and 
one of the finest tombs of the Eenaissance. The 
crypt has the body of Louis XVIII in the center. 
Louis XVII and Marie Antoinette were taken 
from La Madeleine Cemetery and lie in the 
Bourbon tomb here. 

When the party left England, Ealph said 
while it might be great fun in time to be an earl 



What Marjorie Saiv 'Abroad 97 

— that is, when he got old and had nothing else 
to think of — now he wanted to enjoy life; so he 
waited restlessly for a little time to pass. Then, 
a day or so before the party were leaving Paris, 
he appeared on the scene, accompanied by Peter. 

*'How are you going to find them, now you 
are here, and how do you know they have not 
leftr^ said Peter. 

^^Whom do you mean by ^them' and HheyT' 
returned Ealph. 

^^Well, 'her' and 'she,' if I must be explicit." 

Ealph glowered at him for the first time in his 
life. 

''If you are going to be so testy, I'll give in 
and be silent, ' ' laughed Peter. 

' ' Fiddlesticks ! ' ' muttered Ralph. ' ' You know 
as well as I do where they are and how long they 
meant to stay. ' ' 

Now, Peter was more touched with the Prin- 
cess's channs than he cared to admit. This little 
rift gave rise to a tacit understanding on the 
subject later, for matters went quite smoothly 
afterward between him and Ealph, and sunny 
France beheld them once more. Marjorie and 
the Princess were found and never seen without 
flowers now. 

Ealph was in somewhat of a pickle. Up to his 
return to London he had written to his father, 
in the United States, in glowing terms of his 
delightful tour, and also intimated his intention 
of an early journey to Ireland. 

Finding himself in France again instead of the 



98 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

Emerald Isle, lie actually did not know what ex- 
cuse to give, and put off writing altogether to 
his father, to whom he had heretofore written 
every week or so ; but Peter sent plausible let- 
ters home to a friend, so the elderly gentleman 
would know through the friend that the boys 
were still alive. 

Yet Mr. Duke naturally wondered why Ealph 
quit writing and why he had returned to France, 
when Ireland was to have been the resting spot. 
Nettled and uncertain, he procured the address 
from the friend, explaining that Ealph 's letters 
must have been lost, and boarded a steamer, 
dropping in on the youngsters before they were 
aware of his departure even. Ealph could give 
no excuse for his conduct, except that he liked 
Paris and did not believe in titles. 

*'My son,'' the old man said, very wisely, ^^ you 
have never used one, and you can really know 
nothing in regard to it. ' ' 

^^ Well, if I did have one,'' Ealph replied, dog- 
gedly, ^^I would be stuck up like the rest; and 
you know what my mother thought about one 
man having so much more than another, when 
it was to that other's detriment, and site was 
well born. ' ' Ealph remembered his promise to 
that mother to be a dutiful son when she 
breathed her last, and in all his opposition he 
was respectful. 

And the father, softened by this, said : 

*^You can show the other peers how to be dif- 
ferent, if you think you find them wrong; there 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 99 

is room in Ireland to do good, and I liave the 
money. ' ^ 

^'I am human and no better than others, per- 
haps, who have gone before me, and I might fail 
in the attempt," argued Kalph. 

Mr. Duke, the elder, had married late in life ; 
but the love that came then was his strong point, 
and the sweet wife whom he lost several years 
since still had an influence for good. 

^'Well,'^ he said, in a conciliatory tone, ^'we 
may at least go over and see how things are, 
and then you can go around with me on the Con- 
tinent, since you do not seem to mind going to 
the same place twice. ' ' 

Over to Ireland they then went, Peter, in deli- 
cacy — now the father had come — remaining in 
Paris and promising to meet them in Venice, 
though they urged him to accompany them. 
Kalph was in great fear lest his father should 
remain too long to meet the party in Venice, but 
he thought he would try to manage it. 

In Ireland they found an old, tumble-down 
castle overgrown with vines, but a nice family 
living in the best part, who were the only known 
representatives of the former title. The head 
of this famih^ was looked upon as the lord of the 
dilapidated manor. Mr. Duke and Ealph put 
up at the village inn, and in due time presented 
themselves at the manor, after being sure, from 
sufficient research in the records of the place, 
that they were on the right track. 

In a nice way, which was habitual with them, 

hoffk 



100 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

they made the occupants acquainted with their 
design, and told them — ^what they had pre- 
viously agreed on — that they would not be dis- 
turbed for some time, as they had not yet de- 
cided whether they cared to assume the title; 
but, in case he and Ralph did, they would be lib- 
erally provided for. 

^'Well, boy,'' remarked Mr. Duke, after he 
had run over Ireland some, ^Uet's hie away to 
other parts and see what there is to be seen. ' ' 

Ralph made himself especially agreeable, 
partly to get him to Venice in time, and partly 
through affection, and was continually discours- 
ing on the beauties, the pleasures and comfort 
of that city, until his father said : 

*^You have left your heart there, boy; let's 
go see who has it. ' ' 

Ralph turned sideways to hide the flush which 
he knew covered his face, and did it so adroitly 
the father never saw, and thought no more 
about it, for when they were on the way Ralph 
never mentioned Venice again. 

Ralph had talked to his father some about the 
Princess, the Countess and his Majesty, but 
never found the voice to speak of Marjorie. 

When the old man met Marjorie he was so 
struck with the change in Ralph, as they met, 
that he said softly to himself : 

'^She has it!" (meaning Ralph's heart) and 
he rejoiced that she would grace the title, if he 
could prevail on Ralph to accept it after him- 
self. 



CHAPTER VIII 

Fkom Paris our first party went through Bel- 
gium, a beautiful rolling country having canals 
running through it, being next door to Holland, 
which some say is all canals. 

They were going to Cologne, in Germany. As 
they went along, Marjorie thought she might 
see women in the fields, hitched in the plows 
with oxen, as she had heard something to that 
effect; but she saw nothing touching it, only 
some men pulling trucks with a dog tied under 
the latter. The Countess suggested that maybe 
they were beginning to believe in the higher 
education of women. 

The train ran along on the Meuse River most 
of the time, and when entering Belgium the bag- 
gage was examined a little on the train ; but on 
the German frontier the passengers had to 
alight, take the baggage in the station and open 
it for inspection. The party had only valises 
and hand-bags, having, as mentioned before, 
sent their trunks to Florence, Italy. Their bag- 
gage was put on a truck and carried into the 
station building and set upon benches in line, 
convenient for the purpose, the doors locked at 
the '^ausgang'' (exit) until all of the baggage 
was opened. This sounds very formidable, 

101 



102 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

but there is notliing in it. Only a peep into the 
yawning bags and all is over. 

Foreigners are very courteous to Americans 
traveling through their country and encourage 
them by these little kindnesses. When one is 
tired it is so hard to have to pull everything out 
to be looked over. In France the officers only 
peeped into the bags and did not require the 
trunks to be opened, simply weighed them and 
charged the usual amount for shipping. 

Eeaching Cologne late in the evening, they 
went to the Hotel Ernst, opposite the great 
cathedral, and as early as possible next day 
went across to it. Here, too, the beadle wore a 
red gown trimmed in black bands, and carried 
a long gilt staflP with a knob at the end. His 
province seemed to be to keep order, and Mar- 
jorie thought he took advantage of it. He would 
not let tourists walk arm in arm in the building, 
which everybody thought singular, for travelers 
are so tired sometimes it is a relief to lean on 
somebody. Marjorie said he was a ^^cross beadle, 
anyway. ' ' 

The Countess and the Princess did not under- 
stand what he meant, as he spoke German, but 
his action and tone sounded as though he were 
ordering them out. A short service was going 
on at the far end, and they were only whispering 
about what they saw. But this was often the 
case in the churches, and it was never noticed; 
in fact, it was just what everybody did. Per- 
haps he was the only beadle who thoroughly did 



What Marjorie Saiv '^Abroad 103 

his duty. So tliey left; but Marjorie, who was 
taking in the outside, returned with them to find 
out what was the matter, and he became more 
polite. 

The cathedral, founded in 1248, was not finished 
until 1863. For centuries there was no work 
done on it. Outside and inside it appears to be 
light gray stone, and so artistically wrought it 
seems light and airy — like lacework. The great 
spires tower up delicately, and were only com- 
pleted in 1880. Figures and gargoyles make a 
display outside. Inside figures are more nu- 
merous than in any cathedral they saw, and each 
one is a little history in itself. One ancient 
ptained-glass window — the second on the left — 
delineates the genealogical tree of Christ. The 
fifth window, nearly opposite the above, has St. 
Apollinaris in stained glass. 

Marjorie said when she was drinking Apolli- 
naris at the different hotels she never suspected 
there was a saint of that name. The Princess 
said she did not, either. When she was here be- 
fore she had not noticed this particular saint. 
His Majesty smiled in an indulgent way at what 
he thought was their foolishness ; but the Count- 
ess remarked that it was not so silly as it 
seemed, if it would help them to remember the 
window. 

The columns in the cathedral are elegant, 
reaching majestically up until they meet in 
arches across and under the roof, adorned with 
figures and showing other handsome appoint- 



104 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

ments. Tombs near the altars, and eight chap- 
els adjoining the cathedral contain days of 
pleasure. This is one of the few churches which 
has pews in it. 

The treasury, entered by the vestry, contains 
relics of immense value, and is kept doubly 
locked. The shrine of St. Engelbert is one of 
the chief treasures. It is of solid silver, gilded 
and decorated highly, encrusted with precious 
stones, and standing apart in the room. In a 
cupboard ranged around the walls of the same 
room are relics of jewels, robes, mitres, and 
what-not, dazzling in their splendor — rubies 
and emeralds as large as chestnuts in them, and 
used, perhaps, on great occasions. 

The market places were bright with tastefully 
arranged vegetables and appetizing fruits. 
Bright flowers in profusion, intermingled with 
the market people 's quaint clothes and customs 
(they sit flat on the pavement, surrounded by 
their merchandise) , made a very interesting pic- 
ture, and the ladies took a snapshot in the face 
of it. His Majesty was surprised to learn that 
the population was three hundred thousand, and 
increasing all the time. 

Hearing of an Exposition at Dusseldorf , they 
took the train for that city. The Exposition was 
like all they had seen, but had the advantage of 
being presented on the picturesque Ehine. It 
was an educator, as far as their way of conduct- 
ing it was concerned, and a most creditable one 
for ^ city of itg size. 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 105 

Spending the day here, and returning to Co- 
logne in the late afternoon, they started next 
morning for their trip up the Khine. 

Marjorie was over at the cathedral when it 
was time to start, and lingering so long, looking 
at the jewels, his Majesty went after her, and 
forgot his overcoat in his anxiety lest they 
should miss the boat. This he did not discover 
until fairly on the boat. His other (or heavier) 
coat was in the trunk on the way to Florence, 
presumably, and the Countess was worried, 
thinking it would not be found, and the Alpine 
trip so cold without it. Of course, there were 
numerous overcoats in stores, but none at hand, 
and his Majesty was so particular about his 
clothes it would take a good deal of shopping, 
and thereby consume much time to procure one 
in a strange city, even if she could induce him 
to wear a ready-made one. But there was warm 
underwear in his valise, which she thought 
might do in a measure instead of the light over- 
coat. 

A thoughtful silence took the place of his 
usual good nature for a time, when the Princess 
suggested that he telegraph for it at the first 
stopping place. He did so, though it seemed a 
long time to him before he reached it, and or- 
dered the coat sent to Mayence, where they were 
to leave the Ehine. This done, the atmosphere 
around the party cleared (mentally and physi- 
cally, the weather not being good when they set 
out), which was well, as they were approaching 



106 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

the grand panorama of the Rhine, including 
monuments, towns, castles, ruins and natural 
scenery with a long history in the background. 

Marjorie was glad to lay eyes on Bonn, a city 
of fifty thousand inhabitants, even if she could 
not get oif and hunt up the house Beethoven 
was born in. In the vicinity of Castle Drachen- 
fels the stone was quarried for the Cathedral 
of Cologne, and the Castle was interesting by 
reason of its age — ^being built in the twelfth cen- 
tury. Even the ruins along the river seemed 
occupied. Marjorie said she saw two girls and 
a boy on the cliff at Shonberg Castle (worse 
than a ruin), and that one of the girls wore a 
pink gown. She envied them what she thought 
was the romance of living up there. 

Pontoon draw-bridges are used mostly across 
the Ehine, and the boat passed through one. 
Bliicher passed over one in 1814 when in pur- 
suit of Napoleon I. 

The river seemed to the party as wide as the 
Hudson in some places, and contains islands 
after the manner of the St. Lawrence, but they 
are by no means so numerous. 

On one island they passed a castle (which 
Marjorie said just fitted the island) with many 
towers, called the Pflaz, built in 1326 on a rock 
in the middle of the Ehine, and once a fortress. 
This was exceedingly interesting. 

One sees the hillsides encompassing the river 
crowded with grapevines. Stone walls, from 
base to crest, are run along in terraces to keep 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 107 

the steep hills from sliding where the grapes are 
planted. At first one wonders what they are, 
for they are too regularly placed to be thought 
a natural formation. At times the bank of the 
river is low, with the outline of a mountain 
showing from the back. In some of these low 
places there are beautiful homes, with arbors 
for outdoor meals, terraced to the water's edge. 
Trees and undergrowth make shade everywhere 
in the Old Country. A row of trees is nipped 
and pruned until it forms a sort of roof over- 
head. Other trees are trained into vines above, 
forming a dense shade. 

The Ahr, Mosel, the Lahn and other rivers 
meet the Ehine on the way, making a variety 
by cutting the cliffs and extending the view at 
their intersections. 

Prince Henry's castle was pointed out, and 
presented a very handsome appearance. One 
great rambling structure was said to be under- 
going repairs for some wealthy man's comfort 
in the way of a summer home. 

As the boat landed at Bingen the party no- 
ticed it had a pontoon wharf, and watched the 
taking on and off of freight over it, a reminder 
of every-day life on this stream of beauty. 

Automobiles and bicycles spin by on shore, 
and steam cars run by on a wall and through 
tunnels with castellated openings. 

After ten hours on the beautiful Ehine, the 
party got oif at Mayence, about lamp-light, and 
went to the Hotel du Khin, 



108 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

The Countess was given the room occupied 
once by Queen Victoria when she visited that 
city. The latter 's mother trotted her around 
a good deal when she was a girl, and it may have 
been one of those times — the informer did not 
say. It was a large room and had more wide 
doors than the Countess cared to see were se- 
curely fastened every night. A tall porcelain 
stove stood in one side of the room, but the cli- 
mate improves after one leaves England and 
there was no need for it at that season. 

The Princess informed the others that she 
had half a dozen beds in her room at one place, 
and they ran in to see and found three. She 
was amusing herself at their expense. His Maj- 
esty said he would like her to owe him some- 
thing, if that was the way she counted. But he 
also said that was not a circumstance to what 
he found in a hotel in Illinois once — that there 
were actually seven beds in a room which they 
gave him, which the Countess and Marjorie 
vouched for, they making a pleasure trip with 
him through the hills just back of the Ohio 
Elver. 

The much-talked-of feather beds used in Ger- 
many for covers increase in size as one pro- 
ceeds. Those at Mayence are huge, and in the 
daytime are stuffed in large lace squares and 
laid on the outside of the bed. Marjorie said 
it made her warm to look at them at that time of 
the year, however comfortable they might be in 
winter, and that she threw hers in the wardrobe 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 109 

every night and tried to liide it; but the maid 
as persistently found it and put it on the bed 
again. 

The party was surprised at the beauty and 
progress of Germany. The people impressed 
them as being fair and handsome, exceedingly 
gracious, very neat, and so systematic in every- 
thing one is not much bothered traveling here. 

Mayence was founded the year 14 B. C. Driv- 
ing around, the party saw some signs of its 
early origin. Among other interesting features, 
the monument to Schiller, capped by his statue, 
is a pleasure to see. The railway bridge in place 
of the old i3ontoon, the promenades, and the 
Duke's castle are places to note. 

The city has ninety thousand inhabitants, and 
has wonderful fortifications, which the whole 
party took an interest in. At this point the river 
is quite wide. The Ehine streams down from 
the St. Gothard Mountains in Switzerland. It 
is not quite eight hundred miles long, and it may 
be interesting to know that the distance is not 
much over four hundred miles in a straight line 
from its source to its mouth. 

On the way to Strasburg, by train from May- 
ence, they again passed through the grape coun- 
try, so neat and trim, but more level than the 
Ehine region. The vines are run over low trel- 
lises or poles. In the middle of a vineyard there 
is always an arbor, presumably to drink beer 
or wine in. 

The train passed through some corn crops, 



110 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

but the corn was only two feet high and tas- 
seling. , 

The party had had cornmeal only twice since 
leaving home, and this was served as a mush, 
accompanying meats, in Paris. In Italy the 
corn grows a fair size, but Marjorie said they 
must give it all to the horses, for she never saw 
it in any shape. 

They saw tobacco fields occasionally in Ger- 
many, and hops ran all over the country, along 
their route to Strasburg, over tall poles con- 
nected at the top with wires, or twine, making 
a tangled mass. 

When his Majesty's supply of American to- 
bacco gave out he had such a distaste for the 
foreign it was possible to procure he gave up 
tobacco entirely, and the Countess said later 
that some good had come out of the European 
trip. 

It was not their original intention to stop at 
Strasburg, but it was on the way of their itin- 
erary, and Marjorie begged so to see the great 
clock there they spent an afternoon in that city, 
going immediately to the cathedral where it is 
kept. This clock, it is said, was built near six- 
teen hundred, destroyed during the many wars, 
and rebuilt from 1837 to 1842. It is in a room 
on the right, not far from the altar, and one has 
to be let in to see it through a door which is kept 
locked until the hour comes for the imposing 
beadle to open it to tourists. He then explains 
the mechanism and tells its history for a trifle. 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 111 

Plis Majesty told Marjorie, after lie came home, 
that he thought it was about sixty feet high, 
when she appealed to his memory ; but in a great 
cathedral heights are deceptive, and it was a 
long time after to ask, when he had not thought 
much about it at the time. 

Every quarter hour a stationary Cupid sit- 
ting about the middle, in front, taps on a bell 
twice, which he has in his hand. The first quar- 
ter, a child walks from a little door above, 
across a short porch in front, and strikes, in 
passing, a bell held by a stationary figure of 
death, then disappears through another door. 
The next quarter a young man comes out on the 
same porch when the Cupid strikes. In passing 
death he also strikes death's bell, and disap- 
pears through the other door; then it is half- 
past any hour during the day. The third quar- 
ter a middle-aged man comes out, striking death, 
and disappears ; then it is fifteen minutes to the 
hour. The fourth quarter an old man comes 
out and does what the others have done. At the 
same time a Cupid beside the other Cupid turns 
an hour-glass, and the process is repeated, ex- 
cept at night, when, Marjorie suggested, *^A11 
the moving figures retire till morning to get a 
night's rest." The explanation gave much 
amusement to the beadle. 

At twelve o'clock a life-size cock, perched on 
the upper corner of the clock, crows — whether 
at noon or midnight they failed to ascertain — 
while a figure of St. Peter comes out and walks 



112 IVhat Marjorie Saw Abroad 

past a stationary fignre of Christ on an upper 
porch, St. Peter disappearing as the figures on 
the lower porch had done. The figures are a 
foot high — at least they seemed so, except the 
cock, which looks life-size. 

The face of the clock is below the Cupids. 
Above them are seven different chariots, each 
with a day of the week on an outer wheel, the 
right chariot coming out every day and driving 
across the space allotted to it, disappearing 
when the day is closed. A large dial near indi- 
cates the hour of sun setting and rising. An- 
other shows ecclesiastical time; still another, 
solar time. It is wound up once a year. 

Strasburg is very pretty because of the two 
rivers, the 111 and the Breusch, which run 
through it, and because of its unique architec- 
ture. 

Strasburg and the immediate vicinity was for 
many years considered a kind of golden apple, 
contended for by France and Germany — tossed 
between them from time to time — and when 
Germany last and finally claimed it, forty-five 
thousand French left for France rather than 
see it in the hands of Germany or become Ger- 
man citizens. They had the alternative. 

Marjorie remembered the mourning wreath 
on the statue of Strasburg in the Place de la 
Concorde, and did not wonder at the Frenchy 
look of many things, nor did the Countess won- 
der at the French language being so much in 
evidence. She could talk some now to stran- 



What Marjorie Sato Abroad 113 

gers. In Germany, Marjorie usually had the 
floor. The fortifications around Strasburg are 
immense, and so arranged that the surrounding 
moats can be flooded by the garrison to keep an 
enemy out. 



CHAPTEE IX 

Leaving Strasbnrg late one afternoon by 
train, tliey reached the foothills of the Alps the 
same evening. Their dark green against the 
brilliant sky; the distant haze; the blue-green 
of poplars and other trees on the light-green 
ground, with the natives working there in the 
hay, reminded the party of the Angelus picture. 
A pretty setting was made by the numerous vil- 
lages in the valley and the castles on high in the 
distance. 

At last they reached Lucerne, a beautiful city 
— so white and brilliant, as they drove along 
to the Hotel Rivoli, that the Countess said it 
reminded her of the World's Fair at Chicago. 

Marjorie awoke early the next morning, arose 
and went to the front window at once. As she 
drew the curtain back Lake Lucerne lay before 
her — ^mountains, some white with snow; castles, 
trees, vines and flowers in great profusion 
around the hotel. She noticed a balcony, too, 
with chairs and a table, which she had not per- 
ceived the night before in her tired condition. 
Here, when too fatigued to do otherwise, she 
could sit and drink it all in to intoxication, if 
she chose. Such an ensemble is rarely seen at 
one time. 

114 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 115 

The city is steeply terraced, and steps wind 
up all over it. There are thirty thousand inhab- 
itants, if not more. The Ecus Eiver flows 
through it and gives a pleasing effect. Its banks 
are curbed, and on them are rows of trees, mak- 
ing shady walks and drives along the river 
brink. Gondolas rock along the river and boats 
skim along the lake. It is all so tropical, so 
southern-looking, the charm is felt at once. The 
old bridge, with a tower near one end, is differ- 
ent from any bridge any one ever saw in the 
world, perhaps. It has a pointed roof, open at 
the sides, and is built of wood. In the gables 
of the roof are triangular paintings, at regular 
intervals, giving the old history of the city. The 
swans sporting about the tower are very grace- 
ful and quite tame. German seems to be the 
native language, but many speak English and 
French. One of the most interesting works of 
art in Lucerne, or anywhere, is the great Lion 
monument. It is boldly carved out of solid rock 
imbedded in a hillside, and commemorates a 
historical event in Swiss life. Street cars in 
Lucerne are similar to those in the United 
States, and were recognized as old friends by 
the travelers, they having seen only trams 
(clumsy things) in England, and two-story af- 
fairs in Prance, except in Cologne. 

His Majesty and family usually rode in a car- 
riage at home, but sometimes found street cars 
very convenient. The only trouble about riding 
in them abroad, you never know where they are 



116 What Marjorie Saiu Abroad 

goingj and if you are not familiar with the lan- 
guage it is diflicult to find out ; on the other hand, 
if you g'et in a cab you can tell the coachman 
where to take you — he understands the name, if 
not the language. 

Seeing a castle high up on a hill, which Mar- 
jorie thought looked interesting from the old 
bridge, where she and her father were standing, 
she begged him to get her up there. He was 
leaning over the rails watching the swans, and 
felt somewhat lazy, but Marjorie insisting, they 
boarded a car and rode to the foot of the hill. 
It looked very steep to both of them, but they 
got on the cog-wheel car and slowly, slowly 
mounted until they reached what is called The 
Gutclie, a restaurant and castle, with tables un- 
der the trees, where the crowd assembled. 
It took them two and a half minutes to get up — 
the owners claim — ^but Marjorie said it seemed 
like fifteen. She wisely turned her back on all 
below and looked straight ahead of her, it 
seemed so dangerous; but so many did it she 
thought it must be safe. His Majesty sat facing 
her, and enjoyed the view behind her as they 
went up. She thought it was grand up there. 
Thousands of tall, slender pine trees formed a 
weird shade, and the silence was mysterious — 
by contrast with the life at the castle, only a 
stone's throw away. Beyond — from the bare 
cliffs — a vast panorama : the Alps, with snowy 
Titlus ; the lake, the Ecus and other little rivers ; 
the towns ; the bridges ; the tunnels ; the towers 



What Marjorie Saiu Abroad 117 

of the old wall; the moving humanity, were 
spread before them, and Marjorie said she was 
glad she was living, as she sat on the terrace and 
listened to the music on the castle porch, made 
by the harp, the violin and other stringed pieces. 

^'Are you not glad I made you comef said 
she to his Majesty, as they started away. 

^^It was worth seeing,"' he replied. 

The stores at Lucerne are full of beautiful 
things — embroidery, especially, which one sees 
women doing at the doors of the shops, some- 
times sitting outside to get a good light, em- 
broidering all kinds of garments in most exqui- 
site designs. One sees carvings in wood, stone, 
ivory and celluloid here. Jewels are numerous 
and dazzling. Th-e Princass said it was a fine 
place to buy embroidered dresses. It was more 
like an American city than any they had seen, 
united with the advantages of the Old World. 
Here one can look at everything without buying, 
and not be considered mean. In France the 
sellers get displeased if one looks and does not 
like the article well enough to buy. 

A trip on Lake Lucerne is charming. Shrines 
are much in evidence on the way, one, a life-size 
figure of Christ extending His arms on the edge 
of a green bank; and there are statues of saints, 
crosses and crucifixes. On the water one 
sees carriage drives along the cliff edges of the 
mountains or hills meeting the lake; tunnels 
opening for them and the St. Gothard road; 



118 WJiat Marjorie Saw Abroad 

green slopes^ homes, castles and trees filling 
other places. 

The graceful decline of the green mountains, 
mingled with the rugged, snow-capped ones, is 
novel indeed. The city of Brunnen and the 
Mythen, which are passed on Lake Fluelen, 
are an example. Getting off the boat shout 
noon at Fluelen, the party and some others 
drove on the tops of Alpine coaches back from 
the lake to Altdorf , among the mountains, to see 
a statue of William Tell and his son. 

Here a good luncheon was served at the Lion 
Hotel. Before reaching this landing they passed 
a church said to be erected where the valiant 
William Tell escaped from a boat Gessler was 
taking him to prison in. Swiss girls waited on 
the tables at the hotels, and did it very nicely. 

In the evenings at Lucerne, on the broad gal- 
lery overlooking the lake — among the vines and 
flowers — a Swiss band in costume played their 
native airs ; the moon shone bris^htly on the lake 
and everywhere, and a searchlight, high on a 
mountain peak, at intervals threw out a most 
effula^ent radiance. 

Brienz. the next point, is on a lake of the same 
name. The party reached it from Lucerne, by 
train, over the Briinig Pass. There are several 
routes through the Alps — all s:rand — ^but our 
travelers chose those in which they were under 
the impression they could see most. The cars 
were provided with narrow side galleries and 
high railings, for they were now getting among 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 119 

the mountains of Switzerland in earnest, and 
the sights were thrilling in the extreme. There 
was no sense of fear — all other senses were 
drowned by that of sight. Tunnel after tunnel 
was traversed as they mounted the cliffs, and 
soon the train was divided and a mountain en- 
gine attached to each division. The valley is 
magnificent. Lakes, canals, cultivated fields, 
Swiss chalets (on the mountainsides) are ever 
interesting, and a near view of snowy mountains 
is very beautiful to look upon. The odor of 
Swiss clover in the valley rises on the air to the 
heights, making them fragrant. In one stretch 
of country a great flume runs through the val- 
ley. It was made to let the water run down from 
a mountain gully, they were told, which it was 
supposed, from it^ appearance, had been a great 
basin of water that an earthquake had cracked 
in two, letting the torrent down and causing 
much devastation until the flume collected the 
riotous waters and gave them only one safe way 
of escape. 

From Brienz they went by boat to Interlaken, 
at the other end of the lake. Here they saw the 
peerless white Jungfrau (young wife), because 
the white snow falls like a bridal veil — the 
mountain is always covered with it. At sunset it 
takes on a yellow glow, later a pink. Under a 
line of sycamore trees, which had been trimmed 
(as has elsewhere been mentioned) to form a 
shed, the party walked or sat, and watched the 
lovely work of nature, wedged — from their point 



320 What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 

of view — ^between two verdant mountains, as- 
sume its different hues till night drew a darker 
veil and shut out the scene. 

They went to the Casino, not far off. The 
great porch forms a semicircle around the band 
gallery in front, where are chairs and tables for 
refreshments, which one purchases to get seats 
and watch the crowd, listening to the music, 
though many are attracted by the play. It is 
nothing more than a betting table where a mini- 
ature railroad runs around, and one has to stake 
so much on where he or she thinks it is going to 
stop. Marjorie said she wanted to try her luck, 
but his Majesty said that he did not see anybody 
winning, and after watching a while they went 
out. 

It was arranged by the party to go to Gundel- 
wald from Interlaken, in order to get right into 
a glacier. Slowly the train went up to Gundel- 
wald — though none of the trains at any time run 
as fast as those in the United States — getting 
nearer and nearer to the snow-clad mountains. 
The train stopped finally and the climbers went 
to the Bear Hotel. 

Bears surround it completely — sitting, stand- 
ing, small or large. A bear fountain lets water 
through its mouth; bears stand at the head of 
the garden steps and at the foot, but they are 
harmless, being made of a composition of rock 
and cement. Marjorie said they were the best 
kind — they were **so cute," and one could not 
go near the live ones. , | _ , ; ^ 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 121 

She had seen huge ones come down to feed 
near a hotel in the Yellowstone Park, but they 
always ran when any one approached close 
enough to get a good view. 

The Eiger, the Weisserhorner and the Vetter- 
horn are conspicuous at Gundelwald, but the 
party took carriages and rode where they could 
get right up to the snow-clad Vetterhorn. 

One is surprised at the hotels built among 
these lofty peaks ; at the vegetation, fruit and 
comforts to be had. Marjorie picked an ane- 
mone at the foot of the glacier near the division 
line of green and white. Up here one sees at 
every turn the wood carving Switzerland is so 
noted for. 

Stopping at one of these hotels, they alighted 
and walked pleasantly along among fir trees and 
other growth until they came to the glacier of 
the Vetterhorn. It was a little rough, but no 
one in the party thought it irksome — only ex- 
ceedingly interesting; for, after climbing a lit- 
tle, they reached the entrance and walked right 
into the glacier about a hundred yards. It had 
been dug out to accommodate tourists. The ceil- 
ing was arched, planks underfoot, and a light 
here and there, with a limb of a cedar tree over 
it to make it cheerful or to serve as a shrine — 
so common throughout this country and Italy — 
for lights are not necessary to find the way. 
This grotto in the glacier is a lovely crystalline 
blue, illuminated by the reflected light which 



122 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

comes in at the entrance, and it is not the least 
uncomfortable in here. 

Returning to. Gundelwald and lunching at the 
Bear Hotel, they drove down into the valley 
over many bridges, crossing and recrossing the 
mountain stream, and getting a fine view of the 
country. Marjorie wanted a dear little wild 
chamois some one had captured and wished to 
sell, but his Majesty thought he had enough to 
attend to already, and had no idea of adding 
such an animal to the souvenirs. 

High up in the Alps one sees verdure, homes, 
gardens, farms, goats and the wild chamois. 
There are many towns, and good roads — the 
party thought made especially for tourists, so 
many go there — wdth hotels on the way, indicat- 
ing the need of them. In the most important vil- 
lages the torchon lace makers sit in their door- 
ways to attract the passers-by, and the way their 
bobbins fly over their cushions is interesting to 
watch, and never a mistake in the fine, even lace. 
At a nice little village there is always something 
to get out for — a change of horses, a lunch, or a 
rest — and the pretty lace looks very tempting. 
Sometimes the natives come up to the carriage 
and beg you to buy. Even little children are 
expert at lace-making. 

The chalets hang — one thinks in the distance 
— all over the cliffs, and rest in the valleys. 
Driving after d^rk, as one does at times return- 
ing from an excursion, the whole region in sight 
is dotted with lights shining from the homes of 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 123 

the Swiss. Way up on a peak a bright glimmer, 
high enough for a star — one thinks — shows a 
habitation. It is highly probable that the Swiss 
derive much of their income from tourists. 

While there is much verdure over the moun- 
tains up to the icy peaks — vegetation, fruit and 
all — there does not seem to be any special re- 
munerative crop. Their cheese is delicious, and 
the party thought they fared well at the hotels. 

Through the valleys the working people were 
cutting grass with scythes — men and women in 
the fields. His Majesty remarked he would like 
to introduce mowing machines among them, 
they looked so hard-worked and careworn. 
There were no carts to carr;/ off the hay, but 
women with great baskets on their backs, reach- 
ing far above their heads, were loaded up with 
it. Even in Paris they saw errand boys with a 
range of large boxes, twelve feet high, strapped 
on their backs. Who would do that in the United 
States! 

Though history shows the Swiss to be brave 
and patriotic, they seem a kindly race, and the 
party did not feel as if they were being cheated 
out of their wits, as they did in some of the 
countries they traveled through. 

The Alpine trains are comfortable enough. 
Nothing to dread going through the tunnels, for 
they are lighted mostly by electricity, and many 
of the cliffs are lighted by a succession of 
arches. 



CHAPTER X. 

Eetuening to Interlaken from Giindelwald, 
our tourists went a sliort distance on the train to 
Lake Thun, there taking a boat for the city of 
Thun, on the opposite side. From Thun they 
took the train for Lausanne, on the north side of 
Lake Geneva. 

These changes may be interesting to those not 
knowing by experience the manner of reaching 
the lakes of Switzerland, but Marjorie said she 
no sooner got settled than she got unsettled, 
which was no small matter, as her thoughts were 
still on Shakespeare, in her hand-bag, when a 
new move was made. The baggage had slowly 
but surely increased. There were men and boys 
around ready to grab it at every turn — at all 
the points of change^ — ^but it engendered a cer- 
tain watchfulness, which all the party took a 
share in, and it became quite irksome. Some- 
times a native, intuitively, it seems, will run off 
with your baggage and put it in the right place 
before you know he has even wanted to do it, 
and it required eternal vigilance to keep up with 
these porters. 

The beauty of Lake Thun, in the Swiss Alps ; 
the beauty of the way to Geneva; the many 

124 



What Marjorie Saio Abroad 125 

Swiss chalets of natural wood scattered all over 
the mountains and valleys, giving life to that 
world; the cattle; the ploughmen; the raspber- 
ries, the figs, the pears and apples they ate, were 
pleasant afterward to recall. ''Food for the 
mind and food for the body,'' the Princess 
laughingly said. 

As Lake Geneva met her gaze, Marjorie 
thought she had never known any scene quite 
so beautiful. The light green verdure on the 
hills next the water, the hazy blue of more dis- 
tant ones, and the silver light from a beclouded 
sky taking in afar — on the horizon — a bright 
golden streak let down by a happy opening in 
the clouds just at that line of vision. 

In places gleaming white rocks showed bare. 
When they reached the National Hotel and 
looked through its colonnade, its garden, saw 
the lake and, beyond, Mont Blanc, Marjorie was 
silent with satisfaction. 

They were all hungry, of course, and the din- 
ner at eight P.M. was highly enjoyed. It was so 
elaborate and delicious, so handsomely served 
by the most courteous and capable of waiters, 
the Countess said she almost understood what 
it might mean to be a sure-enough Princess. The 
band played in the great hall, where most of the 
guests adjourned for coffee^ — little tables for 
serving scattered about. Others played ping- 
pong or chatted in luxurious chairs or on divans. 

At the brink of the Rhone in Geneva the wash- 
ing is done on a kind of stationary flat-bottomed 



126 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

boat, the women leaning over the side toward 
the water as they splash and rnb the clothes. 

The Princess thought they had to rnb so hard 
she did not suppose the clothes lasted very long. 
As usual, the ladies visited the stores. The 
music store where they make a specialty of 
music boxes is a curiosity. Music is put into 
chairs, vases, cups, tables, and wherever it can 
be put. Every one knows how a G-eneva watch 
is prized ; the ladies each purchased one, with a 
pin to fasten it on the outside. After a certain 
size, the smallest seemed the most costly, on ac- 
count of the minute and delicate mechanism. 

Calvin's house was of great interest to them. 
In his day he was ostracised, but returned with 
great power to spread his religious views. The 
interest his Majesty took in the house was 
prompted principally by the curious old stutf 
that was in it, for it is now used as an armory 
and a museum. The coats of mail are so heavy 
the men who wore them must have been pretty 
stout, and Marjorie said : 

^'No wonder David asked Saul to take that 
thing off of him when he went after Goliath. ' ' 

It was with difficulty the Countess could hold 
a helmet in her hands. 

^ ^ And think of it being on a man's head, ' ' said 
the Princess. 

* ' The Europeans have lived so close to what 
may become an enemy at any time they have 
ever kept prepared for war, which these 
weapons certainly prove," said his Majesty. 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 127 

The lake shore at Geneva is less precipitous 
than at Lucerne, the high hills being farther 
back, giving a wider scope of vision. The little 
sailboats with two sails (triangular and pointed) 
they saw only on this lake, though I believe they 
appear on the Nile. A large flock of sea-gulls 
followed their boat — La Suisse — from Geneva 
to Villeneuve, at the other end of Lake Geneva. 
People on the boat threw bread to them all the 
way, and it was fascinating to see a cloud of 
them fly for it, dipping into the water in a grace- 
ful way peculiar to these birds. 

"When Marjorie saw the Castle of Chillon, 
where Bounivard was imprisoned, just before 
reaching Villeneuve, she said one of her dreams 
had been realized. Byron's poem, *'The Pris- 
oner of Chillon,'' is read at its full value after 
seeing it. 

Leaving Villeneuve, they got into the valley 
of the Ehone, which is diversified by high peaks, 
castles, streams, waterfalls and cities. 

They reached Brigue at seven P.M. and re- 
mained all night at Hotel d'Angleterre. Before 
retiring they took a walk, and were surprised to 
find it such a quaint place. It is hundreds of 
years old, and has no regular streets, only 
crooked ways, and a few dim lights in the most 
frequented places at night. Some of the alleys 
led to arches in unexpected places, and they saw 
so many groups whispering together — in dark 
corners, in idioms none of the party were famil- 
iar enough with to understand even if they over- 



128 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 

heard — they did not extend their walk very 
far. 

In monntain coaches drawn by fonr or six 
horses, the baggage buckled on behind, they 
started about eight next morning for the great 
Simplon Pass, cut through solid rock by order 
of Napoleon I. They preferred this overland 
route as giving a wider scope over the Alps. A 
tunnel, not then finished, for railroad trains, was 
being constructed through the Alps here, which 
was intended to be longer than the great St. 
Gothard. At first the stages — of which th^re 
were several — went slowly, the way was so steep. 

Along the pass are houses called stations of 
refuge, for giving assistance to travelers, and 
where Newfoundland dogs are kept to help. The 
Princess, his Majesty and Marjorie got left at 
one of the stations. The Countess was waiting 
for them in the conveyance, but they failed to 
appear as the coachman cracked his long whip 
and started off. She wanted to get out and wait 
with them, if the coachman could not be induced 
to wait or turn around, but when she thought of 
the baggage mixed up with others, and how long 
it would take to get it out, she knew it would 
be useless to ask for that, and concluded to stay 
with it. However, she made known her situa- 
tion to the coachman, after going a little dis- 
tance, and prevailed upon him to wait a little ; 
but he, becoming impatient, started off again 
while she was still hoping they would appear. 
Meanwhile, the three were writing picture 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 129 

postal cards, wlien the Princess, who had just 
finished hers, heard suspicious sounds, then 
none at all, and ran out to see. Marjorie had 
not yet paid for her card, as she did not have 
the change, and was waiting for her father to 
finish his before asking him for it. They threw 
down their pens and flew to the door when the 
Princess announced the situation, the postal 
cards fluttering no one knew where. 

Nothing in sight, they started a trot up the 
mountain, but not a sign of the coach. A wheel- 
man passing kindly told the Princess he would 
try to prevail on the coachman to wait ; so they 
continued, the Princess, having started in ad- 
vance, reaching the stage first. She had much 
difficulty getting him to wait a few minutes 
longer. She explained to him that his Majesty 
and Marjorie were ^^Southerners,'' and had 
never put their feet on the ground to walk, and 
could not get along any faster — a subterfuge, 
but it answered. They came up panting, though 
her father had to almost drag her along the last 
few steps ; and the Countess resumed her cheer- 
ful demeanor once more, and all enjoyed a most 
delightful drive. Looking back from time to 
time, the way seemed but a thread on the moun- 
tainside. 

Here the country is bold in the extreme, and 
numbers of icy peaks loom up between the lower 
ones. There are shrines on the way to cheer the 
faithful in the land. The galleries cut through 
solid rock are remarkable — made on the edge 



130 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

of tlie cliffs and arclied — the coaches going 
right through. One gallery had a waterfall dash- 
ing over it. Looking back or forward, wherever 
they happened to be, these galleries were very 
ornamental. On the ridge overloking Monte 
Leone, the highest point of the Simplon Pass, 
they found a large hospice erected by Napoleon. 
It dispenses the same hospitality as the great 
Hospice of St. Bernard, southwest of it, in the 
neighborhood of Mont Blanc. It was bequeathed 
to the Augustine Brethren. 

The second floor of the hospice is reached by 
a pair of front steps. Here are accommodations 
for belated travelers, a chapel, the brothers, also 
the dogs so faithful in their search. The lower 
floor seems to be used as a stable. 

Going over the Simplon Pass one crosses 
many bridges, many galleries alluded to, and 
passes nine refuges, also spoken of. After leav- 
ing the hospice they began to descend the Alps. 
The road was so rough with broken ice and mo- 
raine matter (stone and drift), in great hills 
and dripping around them by reason of the 
melting ice, they had to get out and walk some 
distance until they had passed the debris. 

One of the most notable features in Berisal, 
where they lunched, was the delightful wine 
*^Asti Spumenti." His Majesty said a sip of 
it tasted like a bunch of ripe grapes squeezed 
out and taken at once. Marjorie said she never 
wanted to drink any other, and ordered it at 
dinner whenever she could get it. Our tourists 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 131 

were not what is called wine-bibbing people, but 
were afraid of foreign waters. 

Descending the Simplon Pass, the scenery was 
gorgeous. Not so many snow mountains, for 
they bid good-by to these when they left the 
Alecthorn in the Burnese Alps, but gigantic 
rocks, waterfalls, an ancient arched bridge^ — 
pedestrians and others having to go up and 
down over it as they crossed the chasm 
over the mountain stream far below — - 
rivers tumbling down the rocks in wealth of 
foam. Thus they crossed the great Alps. Swit- 
zerland seems but a mass of peoples, mountains, 
valleys, rivers and lakes, with flocks of snowy 
peaks. Finally they reached the stone pillar 
notifying them that they were in Italy. It made 
Marjorie feel good to be in Italy, the home of 
the Caesars, the center of the world in ancient 
times, the scene of so much that is interesting 
to the world at large from time immemorial. 

The first part of the road went through dirty 
villages, and the flies swarmed very unpleas- 
antl}^ at these places, but only for a little. Cross- 
ing the line, the baggage went through the in- 
spection office at a suitable place. At six P.M. 
of the same day they reached Domodossola — a 
small town in Italy — from Brigue, and remained 
over night. The next day they were to start the 
tour of the Italian lakes. The Ville and Poste 
Hotel, where they put up at Domodossola, runs 
around a court, with a vine-clad inner porch up- 



132 What Marjorie Savj Abroad 

stairs, where tlie bedrooms are. The vine is so 
thick it makes a good screen. 

The court below is paved, and adorned with 
statues and flowers in pots. Large arches give 
entrance to vehicles ; chairs and tables are about, 
near the dining-room and library, making of it 
a sitting-room at that end, it having a pleasant 
shade morning or evening. At the outer end 
vehicles were put when not in use. 

At one P.M. the party took the train for an 
hour, and then drove six miles in an open carry- 
all with top over a nice white road (all roads 
are white in Italy) for Pallanza, on Lake Mag- 
giore. 

The drive was through a beautiful Italian 
country, where one sees quarries of white stone 
and lovely rural scenes of southern type; then 
it turned upon Lake Maggiore, the road in good 
order, and many handsome villas picturesquely 
terraced on the lake. 

At Pallanza they took a boat to explore Lake 
Maggiore, which carried them to Luino, on the 
eastern shore ; all in daytime, to see the glories 
awaiting them. From Luino they took the train 
again for Port Tressa. On this route the train 
rambles around a graceful stream having the 
Swiss frontier on one side and Italy on the 
other. 

Soldiers of both nationalities are in evidence 
on their respective sides. From Port Tressa 
to Lugano, on the lake of the same name, they 
went by boat, making five changes between one 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 133 

P.M. and eight P.M. of the same day. There 
was no great hnrry, however; all quietly and 
cheerfully done, for the beauty of it is unsur- 
passed, dwelling in the memory for years to 
come, and it economizes time to do it thus. 

At Lugano they remained overnight. 

The lake is very beautiful, and they had the 
opportunity to observe every aspect of it — the 
wooded banks sloping abruptly and almost 
evenly along the sky-line; the bright moon; the 
after-glow of sunset still lingering around the 
highest. ^'It was incense to the soul," Mar- 
jorie said, as she sat right still and watched it 
with a loving eye. 

Her room at the hotel overlooked the lake, 
and again she had the opportunity to study its 
beauties. As young as she was, she had the wit 
to study the principal points wherever she found 
herself, then to take in the details. The hotel 
was an old castle, and fairly reveled in arches, 
pillars, and places pertaining to castles. 

Here at Lugano the ladies found mosaics of 
beautiful design, and each must have a pin of 
some sort. Crossing Lugano — for it is a long, 
bending lake, and they were still on the same 
side as Port Tressa, from which place they had 
started — they arrived at Porlezza, took a train 
for Menaggio, on Lake Como, and, crossing over 
to the opposite shore, took lunch at Bellagio. 

Bell agio is a quaint Italian city, the bank of 
the lake so precipitous the streets at right an- 
gles to it are mounted by stone steps. One 



134 IV hat Marjorie Saw Abroad 

street in particular is composed entirely of steps 
all the way. The buildings in most Italian cities 
are connected by covered bridges over the 
streets, which give a singular air. In our coun- 
try we like to be to ourselves, and do not appre- 
ciate these connecting links. 

His Majesty all along contended that they 
were made originally for the nobles in old times, 
to escape from their enemies in times of danger. 
In Bellagio many buildings fronting the lake 
have massive arched colonnades on the ground 
floor, where the merchandise is set out to tempt 
the tourists, also chairs and tables for refresh- 
ments. 

Pretty, gayly cushioned boats, with linen tops, 
which can be let back after sunset, like a buggy 
top, await those who wish to be on the water. 
Poor women are washing clothes at the brink, 
using their curious washboards (on which they 
kneel and rub the articles), as well as a good 
deal of soap and patience to get the dirt out. 
But the lake is a large washtub, and they can 
rinse and rinse without any lifting or emptying. 

Ascending the steep side street, with the steps 
going across, already mentioned, one not ini- 
tiated is disposed to think it a gala day. On 
either side a line of highly colored banners deco- 
rate the street, which, on close inspection, are 
found to be Eoman blankets. Going in the first 
door where one is hanging out, one finds a loom, 
and some girls making the blankets and scarfs 
this place is noted for. The blankets and the 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 135 

peculiar construction of the street make it very 
attractive. 

Farther up the street, and all through the 
town, are boxes, tables, and many articles of 
inlaid wood for sale. Marjorie liked one with a 
checker-board top, which threw out a little 
drawer when one pressed on a certain square of 
its top. 

^^Oh," she said, ^Hhis will do to keep my jew- 
elry in, and I shall not have to be bothered with 
a key.'' 

''What is to prevent any one from running 
off with it r ' said his Majesty. ' ' It is so small. ' ' 

''Oh, well, I can the better hide it some- 
where,'' she replied. 

The Countess bought one like a book, with 
m^^sterious openings, in one of which the key 
can be hid. His Majesty got match-boxes, and 
the Princess purchased any number of small 
articles. 

The wooden shoes the working classes wear 
looked so comfortable and cool for warm 
weather — not to say pretty — Marjorie thought 
she might wear a pair herself in summer in the 
house ; but when she examined them and found a 
heel under the ball of the foot, as well as where 
it usually is, she decided to get only a tiny pair 
for a memento. 

After lunch at Bellagio they took a boat late 
in the afternoon for Como, on Lake Como, giv- 
ing them the opportunity to see the lake by day 
and by night. 



136 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 

The mountains or hills around the lake are 
of different shades — some light green, some 
dark, some bine in the extreme, then fading 
away in the dim distance to pale azure; m.oun- 
tain after mountain so interlaced one sees al- 
most a vista of them. Many odd-looking houses, 
as well as villages, are scattered along the lake. 
It being long and narrow, there is no time when 
one cannot see well across. The effect is roman- 
tic and shadowy, especially when the full moon 
floods the whole, and lights spring up here and 
there where habitations are, making long, bright 
streaks in the water. 

Being a little cool on deck, later many went 
below, but the party stayed up and enjoyed the 
effect of the Italian sky on the land graced with 
so much poetry of beauty. Passing the various 
hotels — for Como is at the very end of the lake 
— their porches were seen to be brilliantly illu- 
minated, and tables set out on the broad galleries 
for expected guests, or those already there, were 
indicators of comfort and good cheer. 

A swarm of people choked up the landing in 
such a manner it was difficult to make one's way 
to the hotel, fortunately not very far from the 
lake. 

Como is not a large place, but attractive by 
reason of its situation, and a serene place to rest 
preparatory for the long trip from there to 
Venice, after the varied trip through the lakes. 

For a day the party sat around or walked 
about the piazza in front of the hotel, looked into 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 137 

the stores as usual, and thought it had been a 
pleasant day when retiring for the night. The 
lovely surroundings and the balmy air help one 
to feel contented. Pliny the elder is supposed 
to have been born here in 23 A.D. His nephew 
is known to have been, and the family had sev- 
eral villas here. By the way, they were two 
representative men for that age. Volta (born 
A.D. 1745), the electrician, was a native of 
Como. He was a contemporary of Benjamin 
Franklin, but much younger. 



CHAPTER XI 

Leaving Como in tlie morning, onr travelers' 
thoughts were on Venice, but to break the long 
trip they stopped at Milan a few hours. Here 
they found the most attractive place to be the 
arched gallery of Victor Emanuel II, built in 
glass over about four blocks of two streets which 
cross each other. The entrance at the main 
street is designated by a handsome arch, 
flanked by a long, shady piazza of many smaller 
arches, the great arch facing the cathedral. 

Stores of all descriptions open on this piazza, 
with all sorts of bright articles to catch the eye. 
Inside, where the two streets intersect, is an 
immense glass dome over the court — the floor 
handsomely laid in mosaic patterns. 

Around the court people collect, sip coffee 
and wines, eat cream or ices, and chat and rest 
for the time from the fatigue of sight-seeing. 
Marjorie said it reminded her of a great hot- 
house without any plants in it. The stores range 
around the streets — forming the gallery and 
court — just as they do in the other parts of the 
city, and are also an entertainment. 

The cathedral is magnificent, of grayish stone, 
and is so finely carved it suggests fern leaves; 

138 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 139 

in this particular like the Cathedral at Cologne, 
but there are more spires, each bearing a statue, 
and it is of a different shape. The effect against 
the blue sky is very fascinating. The marble 
columns within are beautiful in the extreme. 
The fresco on the ceiling is so effective one has 
to look some time to learn that it is not wrought 
in stone. 

Standing in front of the altar and looking 
through the vista of columns toward the door, 
one is lost in admiration of the minds which 
could combine such strength and delicacy in this 
perfectly harmonious view. The impressions of 
sight-seeing, as in many things, depend largely 
on the feelings and tastes of the traveler. At 
times he does not feel quite well, but he has to 
look at the objects of interest whether or no; 
again he feels in fine condition and enjoys every- 
thing. No two travelers ever feel the same at 
the same time; what they inspect often strikes 
them differently, though there are some main 
points all are agreed on. It is often well for 
travelers to go in a little party — they assist each 
other in collecting many treasures in the mem- 
ory. 

Nearing Venice the train ran along for some 
distance over the water, somewhat like that in 
Galveston, Texas, stopping at the station about 
eleven P.M. The baggage had accumulated 
greatly by this time, so much so that even as 
far back as in one of the Swiss towns one of the 
trainmen snatched up a part and ran off with it 



140 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

to the baggage car. It was useless to protest, 
and it had, to be hunted up later and paid for. 

At Venice our tourists and their baggage were 
put in separate gondolas. The moon was full; 
the city had the silence of night; the gondolier 
balancing himself in the stern and skilfully 
using his oar. Sitting on luxurious seats and 
softly rocking, as they floated along the water, 
Marjorie and the Countess sang F. Campani's 
^'Te'l Eammenti" for the Princess, who loved 
Italy and all pertaining to it. The two had 
studied Italian some, and had learned the song 
with a professor. Their voices harmonious, 
their intonation soft and low, with the lingering 
Italian accent they had caught so well, made the 
Princess feel that Venice was the dearest place 
in the world. Even the gondolier rested a mo- 
ment to listen. 

After passing under many bridges, sometimes 
through narrow canals, sometimes through wide, 
past doorways of lords, hotel-keepers, shop- 
keepers and peasants — each having marble steps 
more or less handsome, and posts around to 
designate the gondola landing — they reached 
the hotel. The posts of the nobility are gilded, 
and their coats-of-arms are on their houses in 
great display. 

After a half -hour the gondola stopped at some 
marble steps, was steadied by a native (who 
always expects a coin for his courtesy), and 
they entered the side door of the Hotel Metro- 
pole, where English is spoken. Next morning 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 141 

they found the hotel fronted on the Adriatic, 
with a fine, wide pavement bordering the sea, 
and only a few bridges from the Doge's Palace, 
St. Mark's Church, and the Piazza San Marco. 

Venice might be called a marble city — not only 
marble, but most beautifully carved marble. 

It is built on islands or marshes drained by 
canals. Piles were driven in sometim.es to 
steady the buildings, and dirt was brought from 
the land and added when needed. It is a city of 
one hundred and fifty thousand or more. 

The Doge's Palace is a gem of beauty. The 
arcade in front and on St. Mark's side is superb. 
There are tvfo stories in the arcade, the second 
story having about twice as many pillars as the 
lower. No two of the capitals of those below 
are alike. The third story of the building is 
lofty and has great windows at regular inter- 
vals. The outside of this story is faced with 
small slabs of fine Istrian and red Verona mar- 
bles, mixed with other costly kinds. The build- 
ing itself is of brick — like many others — and 
veneered with these beautiful marbles. 

Formerly the houses and bridges in Venice 
were of wood, but, it becoming a great trading 
place, inroads of pirates demanded stronger 
buildings, and castles were needed to defend the 
place. 

Venice was founded in 810 A. D., though as 
early as the fifth century some of the islands in 
the Adriatic were known to be used as a tern- 



142 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

porary refuge from the barbarians who infested 
the country from time to time. 

The Bridge of Sighs side of the Doge's Palace 
looks on a canal and goes right up out of the 
water. There is a wide stone piazza in front of 
the arcade bordering the sea, and leading to St. 
Mark's Cathedral, as well as to a large piazza 
directly in front of St. Mark's, already men- 
tioned as Piazza San Marco, the sides enclosed 
by stores, most brilliantly lighted at night. 
Thousands of people promenade here, while a 
fine band in the center plays choice music. If 
one wishes seats, they can be obtained by order- 
ing refreshments. The Princess gave one of 
her little parties mentioned on the ship and or- 
dered ice-cream for four. The name ^ ' Veneze ' ' 
was molded on each block. She also treated to 
crystallized fruit, which the vendors carry 
around, and is delicious. 

In the daytime pigeons fiock here, and are en- 
couraged by the natives until they are quite 
tame. The old wells seen near St. Mark's and 
in the palace courts are covered over, and are 
not used any more, but the pigeons rest on them 
in great numbers. The washwoman told the 
Countess that artesian well water was used for 
washing the clothes, and the inference was that 
the same kind of water was used for drinking, 
too. 

The Doge's Palace is principally a show place 
now, but the doges used to have their center in 
it. They themselves lived royally. Downstairs 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 143 

in dungeons, or across the bridge under water, 
later, it is said, tliey put what they considered 
were the most dangerous prisoners. 

Marjorie saw the Bridge of Sighs was high, 
and she also noticed some of the cells on a line 
with it, and thought there could have been sev- 
eral stories of them. She had heard there were 
four stories on the palace side, and thought 
there was room for them, as the ceilings on the 
floor with the bridge were low. The party did 
not go to the bottom, as it was too gloomy. 
Hardly a ray of light could enter these dun- 
geons, but it is said some kind heart in pity 
gave the funds to provide lights sometimes. 

When the Bridge of Sighs was built the pris- 
oners were taken over, in the sixteenth century, 
to a new building, which one sees with iron- 
barred windows, just over the canal from the 
palace. 

The Giant Stairs leading from the inner court 
of the Doge's Palace to the upper floor and to 
the gallery of the inner court are very beautiful 
and are an example of early Renaissance style. 
In old times they were used by the doges, their 
friends, and suite. One of the guides remarked 
naively that he was glad no more doges came 
down those steps. 

The inner court itself is beautiful and enter- 
taining. St. Mark's towers and domes look down 
upon it, also a great clock. There are figures 
innmnerable on this side, and the elegant inner 
porch of the palace (similar to the outside ar- 



144 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

cade) around the other three sides. In the cen- 
ter are two old drinking wells which have been 
closed as already stated. 

The rooms have grand paintings by snch 
celebrities as Titian (1477-1576), Veronese 
(1528-1588), and Tintoretto (1519-1594). Among 
them ^'The Descent from the Cross" and ^^ Par- 
adise ' ' — the largest oil painting in the world — 
both by Tintoretto. 

These rooms are decorated in gilt carving and 
paneling in the latest Renaissance style. The 
throne-room is especially exquisite. They were 
told that the chamber where the Conncil of Ten 
met had a secret door leading to the Bridge of 
Sighs, through which prisoners were taken after 
trial, to see the light of day no more; though 
some Italians say part of the windows were 
closed in later days, giving the impression that 
there were never any at all. 

The Council of Ten was so graphically de- 
scribed by an Italian that all the ladies in the 
party had bad dream^s that night, in which the 
Council figured extensively. He laughed at the 
old scales of justice sitting on high in the room. 

Marjorie said one's idea of justice was so 
strained it was well for the world that it had 
the Saviour to settle it at the last judgment. 

The place where the masked Council of Three 
met gave them the creeps when the details were 
recounted by the same Italian. Lastly, they 
were shown into the dungeons below, already 
referred to. 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 145 

Marjorie had heard that there were trap- 
doors to every cell, so it seemed a difficult mat- 
ter for a prisoner to even know where his door 
was ; and she was so excited by the cruel stories 
she heard she was looking out for the trap- 
doors throughout the dungeons, and ran as fast 
as she could, with a peep here and there to sat- 
isfy her curiosity. 

She hurried through the southern side of the 
Bridge of Sighs (it has two passages, with a 
door in the middle), but took time to peep 
through the stone lattice at the world at large, 
and was glad that she was not going over to 
return no more. However, she feared some of 
the heavy doors around them might be trap- 
doors and disappear or might slam, through 
some occult means, in which the spirit of 
the doges might be connected, and she went 
back as rapidly as she could, standing where 
she might command the main doors until the 
others were through. She was happy to get out 
and explore the Golden Stairs. In fact, they 
all felt better for being out. They had traversed 
these stairs before, but Marjorie said she was 
thinking of something else at the time and had 
not explored them right well before, and would 
they mind going once more. They were what 
their name implies — much gilded. 

Sir Christopher, by Titian, is over the inside 
of a door opening onto some steps in the palace. 
One descending the stairs can see it very well. 

St. Mark's Church combines the oriental with 



146 What Marjorie Saiu Abroad 

the occidental. The front is magnificent and 
the bright mosaic pictures on the face of it make 
it very pleasing. All gold and color it seems. 
It is just back of the Doge's Palace, so that a 
part of one side of it — nevertheless, the hand- 
somest side — forms the back wall of the inner 
court of the palace. On the corner next the pal- 
ace is a group of figures (in the act of embracing 
each other) called the Four Brothers, cut in re- 
lief. Some tell the story in this manner : That 
they came in a ship to Venice and were very 
rich. Two went on shore; the other two re- 
mained. In the absence of the others, each two 
planned to poison the other two and keep all the 
money for themselves, and got up a feast in 
which all were poisoned. Wliy their memory 
is perpetuated thus by the church is a conun- 
drum. Perhaps no heirs were found and the 
money went to the church. 

The Countess said that they were more likely 
carved there to show the futility of evil deeds. 

In many parts of Italy the bell tower — or 
Campanile, as it is called — of a cathedral is a 
separate building from the cathedral proper; 
sometimes next to it, then, again, across the 
street. Here it is in the Piazza San Marco — 
opposite the cathedral. It fell not long before 
our tourists happened along. They saw only a 
heap of ruins through the cracks of the enclo- 
sure, though the bell, unhurt, was shown them 
within the Porta della Carta — the beautiful 
gateway in front of the Giant Stairs, which 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 147 

unites the palace with the church. Within, the 
cathedral is brilliant with mosaics, marbles and 
gilding. 

Marjorie said at the first glance there seemed 
to be a million bouquets tossed up and caught 
in a golden net all over the ceilings and walls, 
until the details began to appear from famil- 
iarity, but it would take a much longer time than 
she had to spare to study each exquisite design. 
And so it is with travelers. Many continue these 
studies at home with books, though if one knows 
just what to study it is also well to do so before 
going. Each doge added sometliing to St. 
Mark's. AVliile the interior dazzles the mind by 
its magnificence, it is soft and mellow to the eye. 
Many eastern edifices were robbed of their 
treasures to enhance it. Euskin has described 
it most beautifully. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Sitting in a gondola, leaning back on the com- 
fortable cushions, moving quietly over the Adri- 
atic — associated with so much romance, so much 
that is oriental — it is very pleasant, indeed, 
night or day. The gondolier usually wears 
white, but if he thinks his passengers are dis- 
tinguished-looking, it is astonishing how he will 
try to tune himself up to their pitch. A blue 
sailor collar, a blue sash, fresh and dandy-look- 
ing, or red, yellow or mixed colors; but all in 
taste, whatever he has decided on. One 
felt complimented when Marjorie asked him to 
keep right still while she took his picture stand- 
ing in the act of using his oar. 

The Princess heard him, with an air of pride, 
tell another gondolier, when they were pushing 
along in a crowd of boats, that he had Ameri- 
cans in his gondola. 

Wherever the party went they were received 
with great favor, and one Italian told the Prin- 
cess that people thought them a very interesting 
party. One can walk all over Venice, for there 
are beautiful marble-paved piazzas and walks ; 
but sight-seeing is wearing on the nerves, and 
it is best to be taken to places where much walk- 
ing is to be done. 

148 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 149 

By using the same gondolier all the time — ^if 
you find one you like, which you generally do — 
he will become interested in you; he will tell you 
some or much of the folk-lore; he will see that 
the gondola is neat and trim, as well as himself; 
he will make it comfortable for you, and, having 
lived there, possibly, all his life, will know and 
will show you the best there is ; and when you 
leave the city you feel as if you had left a friend 
behind. 

In two gondolas they went some distance on 
the Adriatic one afternoon to the glass works, 
passing a cemetery, on an island, but so walled 
in one could see nothing of the interior. 

The glass works are most interesting, the 
Venetian glass being classed among the finest. 
After getting out of the gondola they went a 
few steps on the sidewalk, and were ushered 
into a room with a large furnace in the center, 
a fierce wood fire burning inside. Around the 
furnace are arches where the workmen put in 
their different-colored glass on the end of a long 
tube — only a little at a time — and it gets as pli- 
able as dough. 

The workmen have all sorts of implements to 
manipulate the soft glass and control its shape, 
pulling out here, twisting there, and nipping off 
somewhere else, which experience teaches them 
to do skilfully. In making the bowl of the glass 
they blow through the tube, getting it as thin 
as they like, quickly press the proper instru- 
ments on the outer side, while an assistant as 



150 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

quickly holds a hot one inside. Another man, 
or the same man, makes a flower or other orna- 
ment, and while all are warm puts them to- 
gether, and in a short time there is a beautiful 
Venetian glass. 

It all looked so simple Marjorie imagined she 
could do it. ^Vhen a little color is needed they 
dip the piece on the end of the tube in colored 
ground glass (made of chemicals), heat it, and 
all mixing forms any tint desired — green, blue, 
red, or all the colors of the rainbow. 

The heat of the furnace was not unpleasant 
to the onlookers, the long ride on the water hav- 
ing chilled them a little, nor did it seem so to 
the workers; but the constant glare from the 
furnace is a little hard on the men's eyes, they 
were told, and they work only a half-day. 

They were well-kept and a happy-looking lot, 
taking the pleasure of the artist, no doubt, in 
their beautiful works. Mats, hats, cravats, and 
all the other articles one sees made in glass were 
on display. Marjorie bought a cravat, and 
looked very well when she tried it on ; but some 
one suggested the danger of the fine glass get- 
ting in her eyes, and she gave up wearing it. 
It was kept then as a souvenir. 

Little children get employment here in this 
department, after school, at three francs a week. 
Marjorie chatted with a little girl, ten years old, 
who was plaiting a glass mat. The former knew 
a few commonplaces in Italian, which, united 
with gestures, helped to make conversation. 



What Marjorie Satv Abroad 151 

In forming raised designs the workmen have 
long, slender sticks, about one-third the size of 
a pencil, of different-colored glass, with which 
they draw and paint (at once) an object, keep- 
ing a little hot flame at hand to get the proper 
heat. 

Marjorie saw a workman pnt her initials on 
a glass ball, after asking her what they were; 
then he politely handed the ball to her. The 
Countess bought here some dainty liqueur cups 
and saucers. 

In Marion Crawford's ^^ Marietta'' the life 
and history of the glass workers is prettily and 
skilfully introduced, and while reading it on the 
return ship Marjorie heard he was on board. 
She had seen his home on the cliffs near Naples, 
and wondered how he could live contented so 
far from his native land until she learned that 
he was born in Italy. She thought she would like 
to meet him, but, as he was not associating much 
with the passengers, she concluded he was writ- 
ing a book and thinking of what he would put in 
it; so she satisfied herself by staring at him 
when she thought he was not looking. 

An occasion presenting itself later, he stared 
at her in a similar manner, when he thought she 
was not looking; and then she knew she had 
been observed, and kept out of his range of 
vision the rest of the way. 

She said she had met famous painters, 
scuW^fors, and the like — North, East, South 
and West — but never an able writer, though 



152 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

having seen the pictures of many, and concluded 
he was about as nice-looking as any of these she 
had seen. And the Princess added, slyly : ' ' You 
ought to know ; you looked at him hard enough,' ' 

At a glass store the Countess fell in love with 
some beautiful crystalline plates fairly covered 
with gold leaves and flowers. His Majesty be- 
ing willing, she procured a dozen. Then Mar- 
jorie said to her father, ^^Wliat will you give 
me?'' 

^^What would you like?" asked he. 

After looking carefully through the room, she 
replied : 

^^I would like that card stand over there. It 
is the prettiest I ever saw. ' ' 

Though selling glassware principally, there 
was a room or two of furniture gotten up in 
true oriental style. The piece she selected was 
a Nubian or colored boy. His Majesty was 
asked by the storekeeper to pay down half and 
the other half when the goods were received in 
the United States, with a proviso that the money 
would be returned if the articles were broken. 
In due time they all arrived safely. 

The Princess was not along when this trans- 
action was made. The rest of the party were 
sitting down at the dinner-table when she came 
bounding in, and said to Marjorie : 

^^And what have you been doing to-day?" 

^'I bought me a nigger," she answered, seri- 
ously. 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 153 

^^Wliat do you mean?'' the Princess said, as- 
tonisliment in her face. 

^^I meant what I said/' langhed Marjorie; 
'^and he is the prettiest I ever saw." 

After teasing- the Princess a little, whom you 
remember was of Northern birth, she related to 
her the adventures of the day. 

The canals in Venice are crossed by many 
bridges, and one has to go up and down stairs 
every time one is crossed, on foot, which makes 
walking very tiresome. There is very little 
ground which is not built upon or paved for 
walking on. Occasionally one sees a yard at- 
tached to a dwelling. They did not see a horse 
nor carriage. There are all kinds of stairs lead- 
ing up from the canal — as the city is not alto- 
gether level — as well as those over bridges, hav- 
ing very unique and varied styles of architec- 
ture. 

^'Ah!" said Marjorie, softly, to the gondolier, 
as she glided over the water, ^^fermetevi" (keep 
still). He was just about to push oif again, 
after showing them the home of Desdemona; 
but she wanted a photograph of it, and, the sun 
being good, she leveled her camera and carried 
away another treasure sacred to the memory of 
Shakespeare. 

The Browning house on the Grand Canal, 
where the two poets lived some time, and where 
the husband died, is now left open to the public 
by the generosity of their son. The tablet of 
Elizabeth Barrett Browning is on the wall in- 



154 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

side. It is a large and handsome stone palace, 
springing out of the water, garden and all. The 
housekeeper showed the party around upstairs, 
the porter meeting visitors at the threshold and 
conducting them that far. One enters on the 
ground floor, after leaving the marble steps — ■ 
where the gondola awaits — a long, wide hall 
with store-rooms on either side; at the end is 
statuary, then a conservatory and garden. The 
broad marble stairs wind up from here and lead 
to an immense hall going from side to side of 
the building. The rooms lead from this toward 
the front. A cute little dog belonging to the 
housekeeper followed the party around, and 
Marjorie said she liked it as well as the other 
treasures. 

There are large paintings on wall and easel 
done by the son, also a bust of his father and 
mother, done by himself. The mother 's head is 
turned back, giving a pretty view of a pretty 
neck. 

The palace is nicely frescoed and has marble- 
ized floors, with few rugs, as is usual in Venice. 
It is an ideal home, but seems empty with only 
the housekeeper and the dog. Marjorie imag- 
ined how delightful it would be full of people, 
all ha^dng a cheerful time. The pantry is full 
of fine china, so there would be dishes enough 
for everybody, she thought. The marbleiz'ed 
floors, while they look elegant in halls and large 
apartments, are very cold in bedrooms without 
rugs, for Venice is not a warm place by any^ 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 155 

means, though it is associated in our thoughts 
with all that is southern. 

Mosquitoes are very thick here at night, and 
the mosquito nets have a break in the middle on 
each side and are utterly useless unless pinned 
together, which is a source of annoyance to a 
tired traveler. 

The churches in Venice are very handsome, 
and have paintings by Titian, as well as other 
great artists. 

St. Maria Gloriosa is very beautiful, and has 
the Madonna enthroned, very fine, by Giov. Bel- 
lini; also Titian's ^'Madonna and Babe'' (Bam- 
bino, they call Him here) glorified between two 
pillars; a doge's family below, and St. Peter, 
with others. In the church there is a fine monu- 
ment to Canova, who was entombed at Pos- 
sagno, and who made the Cupid and Psyche 
so much admired. Titian's tomb is here. 

St. George's Church rises nobly from the ex- 
panse of sea opposite the Doge's Palace and the 
Royal Palace, and has much of Tintoretto's 
work, including the ''Last Supper." Its choir 
is carved after the life of Benedictus, who wisely 
instituted labor for the monks instead of com- 
plete silence and meditation. Maria Salute, at 
the water's edge, is a beautiful white edifice, 
so chaste, so ornamental, it resembles a young 
queen in stately marble. It has the ''Descent 
of the tfoly Ghost." by Titian. 

TliG r)artv paddled to the lace factory back 
of St. Mark's. Walking up the wide gondola 



156 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

steps, a native, to whom his Majesty gave a coin, 
helping all out, they crossed the pavement, en- 
tered a door and ascended inner stairs to some 
nice rooms filled with happy-looking girls mak- 
ing lace. Each was seated in front of a large, 
oblong cushion imbedded in a stool the proper 
height, making the bobbins fly. Other rooms 
were luxurious with hand-made lace of all de- 
scriptions. It was a very interesting place, and 
the ladies did not dream of leaving until they 
had purchased a lot of lace. They said they 
were sorry that the men did not wear lace fronts 
and frills, so his Majesty could enjoy getting 
some, too. The Princess said that he would 
look ^^ quite stunning" so decked. 

In gondolas rowed by their expert gondoliers, 
clad in white with blue trimmings, they attended 
a grand regatta. All Venice was on the water. 
A warship was stationed in an appropriate 
place, with the judges on board, and other large 
steamboats were filled with people looking on. 

The race beg'an late in the afternoon, and was 
a test of gondola skill, one contestant in each 
gondola. The dexterity with which the oars- 
men guided their gondolas in that vast turnout 
was a marvel, indeed, and in no way did the 
throng interfere with the race. 

The rich, in elegant attire, sitting stately in 
gondolas with handsome trimmings, the ladies 
bearing exquisite parasols, unfolded till the race 
began; the poor with the best they had. All 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 157 

enjoyed the mixed assembly to a degree that 
was catching, even by those who could not un- 
derstand the language and the wherefore. 

The royal picture gallery in Venice contains 
mostly sacred pictures by the old masters. 
Among the pictures are Gio. Bellini's "Ma- 
donna and Bambino," also the '^ Death of 
Eacliel.'- Looking at the latter together, a doc- 
tor told his Majesty that the painter might have 
been a physician, a husband, and the father of 
a family — it was so true, so touching in every 
particular. This painting was done by Giam- 
bettino Cignaroli (1706-1772). 

Venice is a charming and interesting old place 
indeed, and every one wants to go there. The 
party met two ladies who had been planning 
ten years, they said, to meet in Venice. That 
they were realizing their expectations was evi- 
dent, they were looking so happy. 

Peter had naturally gotten ahead of Mr. Duke 
and Ealph, having started before them, and was 
flirting with the Princess, or she with him, by 
the time they arrived in Venice. 

When Kalph introduced his father his Maj- 
esty recognized a gentleman, and they immedi- 
ately became warm friends. 

^ ' But where did you find them, boy 1 ' ' the old 
gentleman said, later. "That young one'' — 
meaning Marjorie — "is a stunner!'' 

This was just what Ralph wanted, and he was 
very pleased that his father should echo his sen- 
timents. Then he told of the meeting at Learn- 



158 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

ington, whicli he had left out in alluding to the 
rest of the party heretofore. 

^^Ah! I see," was his only comment, and 
Ealph turned oif . 

By the time our tourists were ready to leave 
Venice Mr. Duke did not tliink he had seen 
enough of it ; so he persuaded Ealph, who want- 
ed to conciliate him for giving up the title, to 
remain at least a while longer. 

In the mean time, Peter thought he had made 
some progress with the Princess, but 



CHAPTER XIII 

It takes about seven hours to go from Venice 
to Florence. Our first party of tourists started 
in the morning, stopping at Bologna for lun- 
cheon. Arrived at Florence, they drove to the 
Grand Bretagne, on the Arno, in sight of the 
Ponti Vecchio. Soon after their arrival their 
trunks, which had been sent from Paris, were 
brought in, and they were as glad to see them, 
they said, as some one from home. 

Marjorie thought she had three doors to her 
room. One of them had evidently been a secret 
door, but now showed very plainly that it was 
no longer used as such. It looked as if it had 
been tampered with. Some of the plastering 
was off near the bolt, and a wire running from 
the bolt into the wall at the door frame showed 
through. The Princess thought this was to give 
the alarm in case it was opened. Marjorie 
wanted to ask the maid where the door led to ; 
but, as the maid spoke only Italian, and she 
never found it convenient to get the Princess to 
inquire when the maid was about, and it would 
look curious to ring a bell and call her up for 
the purpose, the matter was delayed for a fit- 
ting opportunity. 

159 



160 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

The Princess and Marjorie were in the room 
together one day, and Marjorie dared her to 
open this door. They had already looked ont 
of the window and seen a long, narrow structure 
adjoining the room, with small windows in it at 
intervals, and concluded that it had been a se- 
cret stairway which the veritable door opened 
onto. They had heard that the hotel had once 
been a castle. The Princess did not take the 
dare. She excused herself by saying she might 
see something she did not want to see. 

Marjorie 's windows opened on a court, and 
opposite she could see some nice-looking Italian 
girls every day very busy arranging quantities 
of flowers, as if to sell, but there seemed no 
communication between their apartments and 
hers. In the court, halfway down, was a very 
pretty roof garden with palms. Way down on 
the floor of the court some plasterers were mix- 
ing mortar, and the constant bark of a dog at all 
hours between sunrise and midnight made the 
air lively. 

In the front of the hotel a clean street bor- 
dered by a low wall on the Arno gave a pretty 
view of the opposite side. There were tall 
houses in bufP, with blue or green shutters and 
terra-cotta tiling, making a variety of mellow 
colors — the houses rising right out of the water, 
as one sometimes sees in Venice, and the pecu- 
liar Ponti Vecchio that one can walk through 
without being aware that it is a bridge. It looks 
like a continuation of a street, and has jewelry 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 161 

stores on either side, excluding all sight of 
water, or the River Arno, which it crosses. 

The servants at the hotel were very respect- 
ful and attentive, bowing when a guest passed, 
and the party were very much pleased all 
around; but whenever Marjorie awoke in the 
night she looked over to that wall-paper door, 
which had a writing desk before it, and let her 
imagination run riot. She said nothing about 
this anxious feeling to any one, rather made 
fun of the door. 

One night, it must have been getting on to- 
ward one o'clock, for most of the lights were 
out or lowered for the night. Marjorie had 
been long asleep, when she opened her eyes and, 
as usual, looked toward the wall-papered door. 
She thought she saw it slowly open and two 
men come in with gleaming daggers in their 
hands. The one in front had a dark lantern. 
He was an Italian, with large gold earrings in 
his ears, dressed in the native costume. The 
other was a Moor, and looked fierce and strong. 
There were two beds in the room — the Princess 
in one, which was not her usual custom. Mar- 
jorie 's hair almost stood on end, for she thought 
they were coming for both of them, but, instead, 
they felt their way slowly, cautiously, step by 
step, until they reached the door connecting her 
room with that of her parents. Wliile she saw 
them closing it softly and slip the bolt on her 
side, she tried to scream, but her tongue was 
glued to her mouth. Quietly the two left the 



162 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

door and came toward her and the Princess. 
One raised the net of her bed and motioned her 
to get up, while the other beckoned to the Prin- 
cess. After the girls had risen the men pointed 
to their shoes, making signs to them to put them 
on, and to be quick and quiet about it, with a 
flourish of their knives, which, Marjorie noticed, 
were flashing with jewels. 

Trembling and wondering, they were told to 
put on some clothes in the same sign-fashion. 
In the fright they did not get them half on, so 
the men snatched up enough to keep the girls 
warm and motioned them to go between them- 
selves until they reached the wall-papered door, 
now open and disclosing stairs. The Moor mo- 
tioned Marjorie to proceed with him, the other 
two following side by side when the Italian had 
quietly closed the door. Every time they stum- 
bled in the uncertain light there was a flourish 
of weapons and diabolical frowns, which struck 
them with terror and made them more awkward 
than ever. 

On reaching the foot of the stairs they found 
a door half-open. Entering this, two ways 
seemed to meet. Taking one way, the men now 
left them a little together and talked in a whis- 
per to each other. With only the rays from the 
lantern, it was difficult to tell much about their 
way, but it seemed to be a tunnel. Marjorie 
told the Princess between her teeth that they 
must be under the Arno, she had heard such a 
roaring above, and the way seemed to be in that 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 163 

direction. The Princess whispered to her to 
walk or keep a little nearer the men, and she 
would, too, and in that way try to learn what 
they were talking about, for they were still in 
converse. 

The noise above ceased finally, and Marjorie 
concluded that they had gotten from what she 
surmised was under the bed of the Arno, when 
the Princess disturbed her moody thoughts still 
more by telling her she understood the men to 
say they were going to take them to some se- 
cluded place and hold them for ransom ; that the 
door at the foot of the stairs had been locked 
and bolted, but the Moor explained that this 
did not interfere, as he had learned the secrets 
of the way from an old man — who in turn had 
gotten them from his father — and had thus en- 
tered. He said he had heard a king and his 
daughter, a princess and a countess, occupied 
the suite of rooms bearing on the secret door; 
in fact, he had heard what he took to be the two 
princesses joking about the door, on a street 
corner, where he happened to be standing, which 
set him to thinking, and intimated that there 
was much treasure in store. In order to tell 
Marjorie this the Princess had to give her a 
shove and push her ahead somewhat — the two 
men being in such deep conversation they did 
not notice, or did not understand English, and 
neither of them dreamed that the Princess knew 
Italian, and were not novv^ so particular about 
lowering their voices. The Moor spoke some- 



164 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

times in what the Princess thought to be Greek, 
and this she did not understand. She thought 
they had paid dear for their sham titles. The 
girls pictured to themselves the anguish of their 
relations, and settled it between them that they 
would try to escape. The Princess heard the 
Moor tell the Italian that there was a break in 
the tunnel (for such it was) at the only town 
they had to pass through, and they had only to 
go across a street, and would have to stand in 
the shadow of the tunnel until no one was pass- 
ing, then each would have to take a girl by the 
arm and hasten her over quickly to the opening 
in the other side, both of which openings were 
concealed in some skilful way from passers. 

As they neared this place, and the men were 
just ready to dart across the street with their 
victims, a troop of horsemen suddenly came 
around a bend in the street, and the quick-witted 
Princess screamed, ^'Help! help!'' in Italian. 
Then Marjorie, thus emboldened, shouted the 
same in English, making such a noise the riders 
drew up suddenly and the horses fell back on 
their haunches. The Italian and the Moor tried 
to drag the girls on, the Moor beating Marjorie 
on the head when she resisted. She could not 
tell where the Princess was, for the horsemen 
had by now taken in the situation and were mak- 
ing for the two ruffians. All this she saw as the 
blow from the Moor felled her. 

When she opened her eyes — some time after, 
she thought — there was a brilliant light around 



What Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 165 

her; her parents were there, asking her what 
was the matter, and all she conld do was to stare 
at them in wonder, until her mother gave her 
a gentle shake and again asked her what was 
the matter. 

^^ Where is the Princess T' she murmured. 

*^The Princess is in her own bed. Why do 
you askr' 

^'Because I thought she was over there," 
pointing to the other bed in the room; ^'but I 
think I have been dreaming. ' ' 

^^You screamed loud enough to awaken the 
whole house," said his Majesty, ^^and I thought 
some one was killing you." 

Marjorie said she was sorry, but she could 
not help it, and after a little comforting from 
her mother she turned over and went to sleep 
again. 

The Princess enjoyed this immensely when 
Marjorie told her about it next day. She said 
it was so romantic and mysterious. And Mar- 
jorie wondered if the Princess was not sorry 
that it did not really happen, for she said she 
believed she would sleep in that extra bed the 
next night. Marjorie was so glad of a com- 
panion, after such a dismal dream, she con- 
sented with alacrity. Her parents had offered 
to change rooms with her, but she said it was 
too much trouble and would be too silly. The 
Princess continued to occupy the bed to the end 
of the stay, her room being directly across a 
narrow hall and the last one on it. Several days 



166 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

after, wlien arranging her wash, Marjorie was 
somewhat astonished, on rooting behind trunks 
and furniture for clothes, to observe a fourth 
door back of a wardrobe. She was so well sea- 
soned with doors by this time she did not worry 
over it, but said she felt like Saul did when 
David shook a piece of his garments (that he 
had cut off) in his face^ — from the height — to 
show what he could have done if he would. She 
might be in their power, but they had spared 
her. Yet she would not have been in the least 
surprised if the wardrobe had been on springs 
and suddenly burst open, revealing the un- 
known. 

In the mean time, however, they were seeing 
the best of Florence. The hotel being near the 
most interesting places, they became quite famil- 
iar with them. The Piazza della Signoria was 
just a block or so back, and Tournabuoni street 
on one side (running into a bridge across the 
Arno), where are Cook's office and the restau- 
rant of Doney e Nipoti, the one for mental com- 
fort, the other for physical. On the other side, 
Via Por S. Maria leading into the Piazza della 
Signoria from the Ponti Vecchio. 

The Piazza della Signoria is a great study in 
itself, added to immeasurably by its surround- 
ings. Here Savonarola — saint, reformer and 
martyr — ^was burned and his ashes thrown into 
the Arno. 

Marjorie asked, * * What for 1 ' ' The guide re- 
plied, ^'Because he was too honest!'' 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 167 

Here, on the anniversary, the citizens collect 
in hundreds, even thousands, and pile up floral 
wreaths in his honor, united with other cere- 
monies. The spot is indicated by a mosaic pat- 
tern in the pavement. The Princess once wit- 
nessed a celebration of what they consider his 
martyrdom. 

The fountain of Neptune by the side of the 
Palazza Vecchio is alone worth the journey here 
to see, but the im.portance of the palace is para- 
mount. It has a stone porch in front, and was 
begun in 1299 and the building gradually 
brought up to its present beauty and propor- 
tions. Through a magnificent arcaded court 
(where one is apt to linger a little) one goes up 
a flight of grand stairs to the rooms open to the 
public. Among the wonders here are frescoes 
on walls and ceilings — by Vasari — depicting 
the history of Florence. There is also a statue 
of Louis X, by Eossi. In the bell tower Savona- 
rola was imprisoned with his two companions. 

Near by, on the north side of the palace, is 
II Bargello, now the National Museum. The 
great hall which one enters first is an armory, 
having belonged to the Medicis mostly. The 
Princess said she had heard that people used 
to be tortured here, because the walls were so 
thick their screams could not be heard by out- 
siders. In other rooms above are frescoes by 
Giotto — some of which are Dante in a red dress, 
a man kneeling, and the Cardinal by a window, 
and said to be the finest portrait delineations 



168 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

of the Eenaissance. The well-known winged 
Mercury by G. Bologna, and more of his work, 
is here. 

The bust of Cosimo I (de Medicis), by Ben- 
venuto Cellini, is interesting because this family 
is so conspicuous in Italian history. The Rob- 
bia-ware in one of these rooms is some of the 
best in Italy. Lucca della Robbia did not invent 
this ware, but improved it, and it was so named 
after him. Ilis nephew, Andrea, and ^ve of the 
latter 's sons extended the business. Florentine 
and Gobelin tapestry, mediaeval sculptures, and 
reliefs (by Michelangiolo),* as well as his cele- 
brated Mask of a Satyr (executed at the age of 
fifteen), are among the valuable collection. 
Works of art in marble, bronze, pottery, ivory 
and glass are stored in the building. Marjorie 
felt very grand sitting in a sedan chair once 
used by a de Medici. 

Opposite the National Museum, in the same 
Piazza (della Signoria), is the Loggia, a beau- 
tiful shelter where the Priori, or rulers, met, 
which meetings were called together by the bell 
up in the Palazza Vecchio tower. One can only 
know how beautiful the Loggia is by seeing it. 
Long, wide steps make the ascent through stat- 
uary behind a Gothic arcade capped by Corin- 
thian capitals. Alongside of the Loggia is an 
arcade. On its left, under this arcade, and on 
a line with the Palazza Vecchio, is the Uffizi 
building. In this is contained a world of won- 

*JtaUan pronunciation, 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 169 

ders — the Tribuna (an eight-sided hall replete 
with masterpieces), the different schools of 
painting, and portraits all painted by the artist 
himself, such as Titian, Leonardi da Vinci, Ea- 
phael, and so on. In the Tribuna is the Venus 
de Medicis — four feet eleven inches high — sup- 
posed to be the work of Cleomenes, son of Apol- 
lodurus, discovered in Hadrian's villa at Tivoli; 
the statue of Apollino, by Praxitiles; the 
Dancing Faun, also supposed to be done by 
Praxitiles; the Group of the Wrestlers; the 
Knife Grinder — ^ve of the most antique statues 
in the world. 

The various schools are in different rooms. 
Titian heads the Venetian school, and his 
^' Flora,'' a sweet-looking girl, is among his 
paintings. In one of the rooms, on an easel, is a 
quaint painting, ^ ' Incoronizione della Vergine, ' ' 
by Beato Angelico, born in 1387. Another, called 
*'La Vergine col Bambino," by Bottocelli (1447- 
1510), is on the wall behind. The little Christ 
has cherries in his hand. Among the gems in 
one of the glass cases at the Uffizi — a head and 
bust cut from a ruby, about the size of a dollar, 
and drapery held in front by a solitary diamond 
— caught Marjorie 's artistic eye. She was sur- 
prised, too, at the sweet mien Guido Remi gave 
his Cleopatra. 

The Uffizi building is joined to the upper story 
of the Ponti Vecchio by a gallery running along 
the Arno over an arcade till it meets the Ponti 
Vecchio, which in its turn connects with the 



170 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

Pitti Palace. The last is a most magnificent 
place. Tke King of Italy, Victor Emmanuel III, 
was in Eome at the time the party appeared, and 
the Pitti Palace and the Boboli gardens, adjoin- 
ing, were opened to the pnblic at certain hours. 
Within, green and gold, red and gold, blue and 
gold, white and gold, dainty Dresden-looking 
stuffs and gold, prevail throughout. And there 
are rooms of treasure, with old, old articles in 
gold, precious stones, silver, marble and china; 
a priest's mitre among them, made in change- 
able designs by having different-colored flies' 
wings worked in — a very singular relic. Many 
of the latter belonged to the Medicis, especially 
to Cosmo and Lorenzo — ^powerful heads of a 
powerful house of rulers. 

A large portrait of Catherine de Medici, 
mother of Charles IX of France, and a potential 
member of the Medici family, was in great evi- 
dence upstairs, where the royal rooms are. In 
Florence, whichever way one turns one sees the 
de Medicis' arms, a shield bearing six balls. 
The facetious call them pills, because they say 
no one was allowed to stand in their way — no 
one who was rash enough to oppose them. They 
and their families, from the earliest times, also 
those of the King, Victor Emmanuel, are to be 
seen in the picture gallery over the Arno. 

The age of the Pitti Palace may be gathered 
from the fact that it was purchased by the Medi- 
cis in 1549 and only recently finished. The build- 
ing is three stories, and the inner court has 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 171 

Doric, Ionic and Corinthian colmims. At one 
end of tiie court, facing the entrance, is a grotto 
paved with mosaics, ornamented with statues 
in porphyry and satyrs in bronze. 

From the Pitti Palace end of the Ponti Vec- 
chio the gardens lead, and are on two sides of 
a hill. Near the entrance to them is an artificial 
grotto with statues in the rough by Michelan- 
giolo. 

Away from here, in one part of the garden, a 
flight of steps takes one up to a little tower on 
the highest part of the hill, from which, in the 
little balcony, Florence can be viewed with com- 
fort and pleasure. The Princess and Marjorie 
took pictures up here and all around. 

Descending the hill on the other side, the 
party came to a basin, surrounded by a grand 
hedge of cork oaks, in the center of which is a 
great statue representing the ocean, in the midst 
of three other statues representing the Ganges, 
the Nile, and the Euphrates, by Bologna. Steps 
lower down on the same side lead to an amphi- 
theater — at the back of the palace^ — with six 
tiers of stone seats ornamented with sculptur- 
ing, making a large, open, paved place, with 
the palace in sight, itself in a thicket of myrtles, 
laurels, spindles, evergreens, cork oaks and fine 
cypress. The members of the party had to keep 
their eyes and ears wide open to absorb intelli- 
gently the treasures of old Italy, for in many of 
the buildings each room is a day's study, and 
outside as well. 



172 TVhat Marjorie Saw Abroad 

Some of the markets in Florence are elegant 
and entirely of stone^ — great open places with 
high massive pillars and arches, lavish with 
statuary. One has a boar in front of it, said to 
be one of the finest pieces of sculpture in the 
city. 

It was very picturesque, thought Marjorie, to 
see it filled with the gaily dressed Italians and 
their variegated wares. In Florence the Prin- 
cess had an artist friend who spent many of the 
evenings with the party, and they with her. Her 
studio has a beautiful location, facing the gar- 
den of the Fort. A large basin of water with 
fountain and plants grace the landscape, which, 
with trees and walks on a rise of ground, is a fit- 
ting view for one who pursues the graceful art. 

Her reception-rooms are lovely, and decorated 
mostly by her own statues and paintings. Her 
men do the rough work after she has conceived 
the design. She lives with her maids, contented 
and happy in her work, though she is not a 
recluse and has as many friends as her work 
will admit of. The party met in Florence the 
son of the great artist, Hiram Powers, a native 
American. He has a delightful home and studio 
here. Marjorie has his visiting card, and keeps 
it among her treasures. 

The Duomo, as it ascends from the open place 
where it sits in company with the campanile and 
baptistry, is a delight to the senses. It was not 
finished until 1886, though begun many hundred 
years since. It is coated with polished light 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 173 

marble and dark magnesian serpentine — all an 
indescribable blue mist of china, it seemed, 
dashed with mosaics in red and other harmoniz- 
ing colors. In the bnilding at the right of the 
entrance is the tomb of Giotto, and his bust. 
Four superb arches on each side of the nave 
reach to the choir, the great dome resting on 
piers ornamented with statues of apostles, the 
ceiling grandly carved. The bronze gates of 
the sacristy have reliefs over them in terra -co tta 
in the best work of Lucca della Eobbia (1399- 
1482). The view from the dome is unrivaled. 
Outside — not far from the Duomo — is a stone 
in a wall on which Dante sat and watched the 
work on the building till he was obliged to leave 
the city, in 1301 A.D., for political reasons. The 
campanile towers lofty and grand, its windows 
and statues increasing in size as they ascend, 
to make them seem alike. It was designed and 
begun by Giotto (1276-1337), the first artist 
to strike out the best ideal in which to represent 
the Saviour on the cross. 

The baptistry, as usual, is a gem of art and 
beauty. The bronze door in it, fronting the 
cathedral, was said by Michelangiolo to be wor- 
thy to close the entrance to Paradise. It was 
begun by Lorenzo Ghiberti in 1425 and finished 
by his pupils some years later. It is in ten divi- 
sions, representing scenes from the Old Testa- 
ment. The fruit, flowers and birds used for the 
ornamentation are exquisite, as well as the 
scenes. 



174 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

The Cluircli of San Croce lias a very hand- 
some approach, being in front of a large, some- 
what open sqnare, and viewed to advantage 
from it. Marjorie said it looked to her like 
cream stucco — there is a kind of stone in Italy 
which resists the atmosphere better when cov- 
ered with a cement. As they alighted from the 
cab to ascend the steps running all around the 
wide, open, roofless portico, extending the width 
of the church, she was accosted by two Italian 
women, their corsets outside, black aprons over 
red skirts and the lower part of the corset; 
parti-colored neckerchiefs over a white waist. 
Their corsets did not meet by far in the back 
and were closely laced with silk strings. One 
was bareheaded; the other had an old black silk 
fascinator on her head. In Italy there is more 
freedom of action than the other countries they 
went through, and the party now usually went 
in one cab, Marjorie or the Princess sitting by 
the coachman, to find out all he knew, when they 
got far out where they were not known. 

The women just mentioned held out some silk 
lace shawls which are seen all over Florence, 
and, being a little chilled, Marjorie bought one 
to throw about her shoulders. Encouraged by 
this, they insisted on her buying a dog they had 
— about the size of her fist. It was a cute little 
beast. She explained that it would be a nice 
gift for their artist friend as a keepsake, but 
the Princess, knowing her better, feared it would 
not be welcome, so hurried her in, after petting 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 175 

it some. Perhaps Marjorie thought she might 
have a chance to see the dog again if she gave it 
to the artist. It was out of the question to keep 
it herself. 

All the churches are much of the same general 
pattern, so that when the main features of one 
are described it looks as though it might do for 
all; but in no two cases are they alike. Some 
have a row of single columns, some a few 
grouped columns, then again they are arched 
differently, and decorated in such a variety of 
handsome designs. Entering San Croce, Gali- 
leo's tomb (1564-1642) on the left and Dante's 
cenotaph — he was buried at Eavena — and 
Michelangiolo 's tomb on the right are very im- 
pressive. There are arched pillars on each side 
of the nave ; slabs on the floor with inscriptions 
to the departed; handsome statues, either me- 
morials or the real tombs, along the walls ; and 
any number of chapels with frescoes by Giotti. 
Some of the chapels and the church are so ar- 
ranged one can take in many of their beauties 
without going through doors, and with one 
sweep of the eye. Marjorie said it seemed more 
like a burying-ground than a church, but she 
thought it enchanting — so much fine marble — 
and stepped about in every direction to keep 
from walking on the graves in the floor, which, 
she said, she thought was disrespectful to the 
ashes lying there. His Majesty replied that they 
ought not to have put them in such an attractive 
place if they did not wish them walked over. 



176 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

San Croce is called the Westminster Abbey 
of Florence. It was begnn in 1294 and was not 
finished nntil 1863. Andrea del Sarto and Eob- 
bia have some of their work in the chapels. 
Giotto 's finest work is seen in the Capella Bardi, 
which is connected with this church. The Church 
of the Annunziata is open all day. It was built 
in 1250. Here Andrea del Sarto painted his 
beautiful wife as the Virgin, and the chapels 
attached to it are very interesting. The church 
seemed like a mass of gold and silver. Service 
was going on part of the time, and the illumina- 
tion was dazzling. 

St. Mark was erected in 1290. At the adjoin- 
ing monastery they saw the cell Savonarola 
stayed in, his chair and desk, his Bibles and re- 
ligious books. He is much revered in Italy. 
Some Dominican monks still live at this monas- 
tery. The cells have one little window, and are 
adorned with mural paintings by Fra Angelica. 

Dante's alleged house is to be seen not far 
from the Piazza della Signoria, but present as- 
sertions give rise to doubt. There are a few 
relics exhibited. Eaphael 's home is also a show 
place. 

Michelangiolo's house consists of seven rooms, 
and contains a bust of himself, a statue, the fam- 
ily history and other valuable remembrances, 
frescoes of his funeral, and so on. He is known 
to have had great energy, though he is said to 
have eaten very little, and awoke in the night 
to go to work. Marjorie said she presumed the 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 111 

last was true, for it seemed to lier as if all ar- 
tists had been overshadowed by him as to 
amount of work done. 

^^Ile lived to be nearly ninety,'' said her 
mother ; ^ ' he had a longer time. ' ' 

' ' Some say he wore a candle on his cap when 
he was painting at night," chimed in his Maj- 
esty. 

The Princess added that she had read some- 
where that he was so eager to reveal his con- 
ception he went at his marble as if he were as- 
sailing an enemy. 

From the Piazza Michelangiolo, at the end of 
a nice up-hill drive from Florence, the party 
had a line view of the city and its en\drons. 
Here Michelangiolo 's great statue of David 
stands alone on the height in the center of the 
open. The terraced background of trees and 
walls with pavilion show it to be a resort. 

A little way beyond is St. Miniato, built in 
1013, in Byzantine style. There is a burying- 
ground outside and a fine view is had from the 
large church porch. The front is plain and 
faced with black and white marble. The tower 
was protected from the enemy's bullets with 
mattresses by Michelangiolo during a siege, 
though he had a cannon up there to return their 
attentions. 

Around here are old fortifications which still 
remain, built by Michelangiolo to defend Flor- 
ence — thus holding off the armies of Charles V 
and Pope Clement VII some months. So this 



178 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 

great man was a warrior as well as an artist 
and, as we shall see later, an arcliitect. 

From St. Miniato is a road to Galileo 's honse, 
where he died, and not far off a house where he 
made some astronomical observations. Among 
his relics is a letter written by him. Italy 
abounds in handsome stairways, even on the 
mountain or hillside. Every part of them is 
adorned, which makes the surroundings elegant. 
The old masters' works are at every turn of 
them at times. Going down from St. Miniato, 
on the city outskirts, the party saw such a net- 
work of ornamental steps with railings — lead- 
ing everywhere, it seemed — the Countess in- 
quired of the coachman what it led to. He said 
it was a footpath to Piazza Michelangiolo. It 
is most artistic; the fagade — if one may call it 
such — innumerable railings interlacing each 
other, this way and that way, until the top is 
attained. The effect is very romantic and mys- 
terious. Not far off an old Eoman tower ap- 
pears — open on one side — disclosing a flight of 
steps in each story and winding to the top, 
where in times of war the approach of the en- 
emy was watched. 

The ducal palaces of Florence are very much 
alike — a large building of bluish sandstone, 
more or less fine, with four angles and a court, 
the first floor having small gratings high up 
from the ground, and heavy iron rings at regu- 
lar intervals for banners on the outside, and 
cavities for holding torches. At the corners 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 179 

very elaborate lamps of wrought-iron are 
swung. At the principal entrance there used to 
be in many — now left in some — a small depres- 
sion with an opening in the wall throngh which 
provisions and wine could be thrust. "There 
were so many factions in old times, so little true 
religion, perhaps, it was dangerous and incon- 
venient to open a large place of admittance at 
all hours," his Majesty observed. 

The entrance itself is usually very massive 
and imposing, leading within to a court embel- 
lished with pillars, fountains, and statuary, ac- 
cording to the wealth of the owner. Elaborate 
flights of steps ascend to the leading rooms, 
which are frescoed and adorned in regal style. 
The ceilings are lofty, and paneled with carved, 
gilded and painted beams. 

Driving through Florence, the home of Ro- 
mola, George Eliot's heroine, was pointed out 
to the party. Marjorie had never read the book, 
but made a note of it for future perusal. 

The drive to the Ca seine Gardens is delight- 
ful. It runs partly along the Arno, which at this 
point was dry in many places. At the Chapel 
of the Medicis the party saw more of the fine 
statuary of Michelangiolo — "Night and Day" — 
on the sarcophagus of Guiliano de Medicis (his 
figure above), represented by two nude figures; 
the woman. Night, asleep; the man. Day, just 
opening his eyes. Opposite is the tomb of Lo- 
renzo II— he sitting there apparently thinking 
of brewing mischief. "Dawn and Twilight" 



180 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

are beneath liim, and represented by a shapely 
nude woman witli a waking expression, and a 
nude man just about to go to rest. 

Another apartment in this Chapel shows the 
tombs or monuments of prominent members of 
the__Medicis family gotten up in grand style. 

The Church of Or San Michele was once a 
grain market. Around it were niches holding 
statues of saints, each trade using it obligated 
by law to provide a statue of its patron saint. 
The statues are fine examples of the Florentine 
school. The St. George by Donatello^ — the cele- 
brated predecessor of Michelangiolo — also his 
St. Mark, ought to be especially noticed. The 
latter figure impressed Michelangiolo so favor- 
ably he said, when looking at it, ^'So noble a 
figure could indeed write a gospel. '^ 

At Fiesole, a pleasant drive in a carriage from 
Florence, on the heights in the Appenines, are 
remains of the old Roman baths, which one can 
still see were heated by building fires under a 
low stone reservoir held up by little brick pil- 
lars. An old Eoman theater there is very inter- 
esting — seats made of stone, and circular, like 
those in a circus. 

The Princess and Marjorie gathered pretty 
blue snail shells, and climbed through the sur- 
rounding plive patches, and begged a boy, over 
a fence, who was passing through the vineyard, 
to give them some grapes right off the vines. 
When he saw the money he gave them the 
grapes. None of the party knew whether they 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 181 

were his grapes or not, but the Princess and 
Marjorie were so thirsty they did not care. 

A museum here is replete with mosaic stat- 
uary, stone cohimns, and articles of various de- 
scriptions taken from the ruins, or crumbling 
from them at different times. Among these 
relics were tear bottles, into which the aristo- 
cratic Romans shed their tears, to throw them 
into the graves or urns of friends. Marjorie 
said their necks were so narrow she wondered 
how they got their tears in. 

There was the stone wolf of peculiar shape 
which is always pictured with Romulus and 
Remus, but t]ie twins were non est. 

Going down, Marjorie picked an olive branch, 
with olives on it, for a memento. There were 
fields of olive trees on the way. 

' ^ They will dry up, ' ' said his Majesty. ^ ^ What 
is the use of it ! " 

^^What is the use of anything T' she returned, 
and he smiled. 

The olives remained on long enough to show 
to her friends, and the leaves are still intact. 
Going up and down they had a nice view of the 
valley of the Arno. The sky was only what an 
Italian sky can be — of glorious colors. 



CHAPTER XIV 

Owing to the prevalence of cholera in Egypt, 
through which they would have had to pass, the 
party did not go to the Holy Land. But they 
found Holy Land at Pisa, a short distance from 
the Leaning Tower. Fifty-three shiploads of 
dirt were brought to this spot about the twelfth 
century from Mount Calvary, and deposited to 
make a graveyard, which is surrounded by an 
arcade with mural decorations, enclosing a long, 
narrow, roofless court. 

One of the frescoes here represents Dante's 
Inferno, or his idea of hell, and has a warning 
to the wicked in every detail. There is a great 
devil with horns and tail, and little devils com- 
ing out of a hole in his stomach; that is (figura- 
tively) all the souls he has consumed. The an- 
gels and other devils are fighting over souls just 
coming from earth. This sacred place is called 
Campo Santo. Many old Roman sarcophagi 
brought in from time to tune were ranged 
around the walls and arcade. The floor within 
the arcade holds the dead buried here. The 
inner court is a grass plot, containing a few 
flowers and shrubbery. The keeper gave the 
ladies some flowers he had gathered from it, and 

183 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 183 

later tliey were pressed and put away as treas- 
ures. 

The Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Bap- 
tistry and Campo Santo all belong together, and 
are a magnificent group. The Leaning Tower 
(cream white), ascending in a majestic manner 
toward the sky, glistening in the sunlight; the 
Cathedral mostly white, in lines of bluish tint, 
and ornamented in finely conceived marble de- 
signs; the domed Baptistry in the same pat- 
tern; the Campo Santo in the background, and 
an old Eoman wall with massive gate beyond — • 
all flooded with an Italian sun — flashed upon 
them suddenly from a turn in the street, and 
their hearts went out to it as an ensemble of 
surpassing beauty. The Leaning Tower is 
round — southern Romanesque in style — and is 
the campanile for the Cathedral, soaring up 
across the way, or street, from it. Inside is a 
winding stair, and at the top are bells around 
at intervals, and one rang while the party were 
looking. It is about a hundred and eighty-three 
feet high, and inclines a little over thirteen feet 
to the south. It is built of marble throughout 
and is eight stories high, the walls being thir- 
teen feet thick at the base and half as thick 
higher up. It is chaste, symmetrical, and ele- 
gant. The stories are designated on the outside 
by columns. It was begun in 1174. Marjorie 
was infatuated with it. She viewed it from every 
point, and walked around it several times to 
examine it thoroughly. It looks so fresh and 



184 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

pnre one can easily imagine that it was made 
but yesterday. Galileo used it as a height to test 
his experiments in gravitation. 

The Cathedral inside revels in scroll after 
scroll of life-size designs in paintings on the 
walls and mosaics in medallions on the ceiling. 
The handsome side pillars are spoils of ancient 
Greek and Eoman buildings. A chandelier 
which Galileo had observed swaying at different 
times gave him the idea of a pendulum of a 
clock. At the Baptistry the carving on the altar 
representing lace is so finely wrought it still 
seems, on close inspection, to be the real article. 
The echo here resounds wonderfully. The 
guide intoned in the Roman Catholic style, 
and the reverberation sounded like a choir of 
Cherubim and Seraphim from the great dome 
above, supported by many columns. The font 
is beautifully carved in marble and large enough 
to get in, if you wish. The pulpit is also richly 
carved, and led up to by exquisite little steps. 

The party also visited the alabaster works of 
Pisa, where men with aprons and caps were 
chiseling groups and separate pieces out of the 
soft stone. Even a little eight-year-old boy 
seemed to be learning the trade. His mother 
had not long since died. His thoughts were with 
her in the other world, they said, and he was 
carving a Christ with his tiny hands, while his 
father worked at a larger one. His Majesty 
was struck with the efforts of the little fellow 
and complimented him on his work. 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 185 

The house where Galileo was born looks old 
and shabby, but when we remember what it once 
contained we revere it. Pisa is so old it is said 
by some to be contemporary with Troy (1400 
B.C., according to tradition). 

Going and returning to Florence from Pisa 
in one day, they next visited the Bel Arti — a 
great treat in the way of tapestries, statues and 
paintings. In the tapestries the Creator is de- 
picted in a red robe, walking with Adam; then 
there is a great piece where the animals file be- 
fore Adam — the large ones first in line, the 
smaller ones in a second, and a long sweep of 
birds above. The tree, the deceiver, and Adam 
are on yet another piece. Eve appearing in the 
right places, the angel with the flaming sword 
driving them out in the last. All is told in about 
a half-dozen immense pieces, fastened on the 
wall opposite one another. 

Among the paintings is Fra Geo Angelico's 
*^Last Judgment" — the good on one side, the 
bad on the other, where devils of all sorts are 
worrying the latter. The good are reiDresented 
as going up to a city at the top of a wooded hill, 
with their guardian angels saluting them and 
leading them up by the hand — a very pretty 
idea. The angels have golden halos around their 
heads, and golden wings, and the good have 
golden filaments radiating from the crowns of 
their heads. 

In some of the pictures of the old masters 
angels have red, green and pink feathered 



186 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

wings, and in some they are mixed colors, or 
gold. Marjorie said she had not thought of their 
wings as other than white. The Princess re- 
plied, ^ ' There is no telling. ' ^ 

A cousin of the Czar of Russia was going the 
rounds with a pleasant-looking family. They 
were no different from other nice people in ap- 
pearance, and without attendants, but a well- 
bred air was noticeable. Wherever the party 
went, these Russian people happened along, and 
vice versa, until it got to be laughable. The last 
time his Majesty saw the young lady make signs 
to her mother that there were the same people 
again, and Marjorie punched her mother and 
told her to look behind her when she could. They 
had all seen so much of each other they looked 
as if they wanted to speak, but they did not. 

An American consul was at the same hotel. 
Getting acquainted with him, the Countess 
found he had visited among her mother's friends 
in the South. Of cou.rse, there was much to say. 
He was a Northern man, but he told the Coun- 
tess he would ever remember his visit; that, 
among other courtesies, when he was shown to 
his bedroom he saw roses laid all over the bed. 
He asked what they were for. The answer was, 

They are to welcome you.'' 



a 



Mr. Duke, whom the party left in Venice with 
his traveling companions, now arriving in Flor- 
ence, talked much about Beaumont, being a 
little proud of his coup d'etat in that region^ 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 187 

though never of his means; and, thinking the 
tale of his title remarkable, told that, too. 

The foreigners, quick to appreciate such a sit- 
uation, spread it around that he was Lord Some- 
body, and just as he and Ralph were getting 
acquainted with other nobles and introducing 
them to their friends our tourists had to leave 
for Rome. This did not deter Prince Leonori, 
one of the number, who was smitten with the 
Princess, from following. He used the most 
poetic language in addressing her. He had a 
fine tenor voice, was distinguished-looking, and 
Florence was the place of all others to consum- 
mate the affair, had it not been for Peter — he 
could not be dropped so suddenly. 

Mr. Duke bought a turquoise necklace, a tur- 
quoise comb, a pin and buckle of the same kind; 
as much in coral; also a diamond necklace. 
Ralph and Peter wondered whom they were for. 
Ralph had no sisters nor aunts, neither had his 
father. 

^'I']l just keep them to look at, my boy; they 
may come handy some day," he said, as he no- 
ticed their inquiring gaze, and addressing 
Ralph. 

In about eight hours' run from Florence is 
the great city of Rome — ^beautiful, magnificent, 
classic Rome ; city of the past, city of the pres- 
ent, so intermingled, Marjorie said, it seemed 
like a dream to be there. They reached it not 
long before midnight. The handsome fountain 



188 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

near the station was still playing as they walked 
past, and soon they fonnd themselves at the 
large and queenly looking Hotel Quirinal. Mar- 
jorie said she hated to go to bed and lose time 
sleeping while in Rome. The Countess reminded 
her that the sooner she retired the earlier she 
would rise and explore. 

Next morning, when they were assembled at 
breakfast, his Majesty said he was going to hunt 
up somebody to tell him about the city. 

^'Whom will you findT' laughed the Countess 
— she knew they did not know anybody in Eome. 

^'I know of a sculptor here who used to go to 
the same college I did, and if he is anything like 
the rest of the boys I met there he'll help me 
through with these Italians." 

They all concluded they would like to go, if 
that were the case, and got ready with alacrity. 

As it turned out, the sculptor was Ezekiel, 
who had his studio under one of the domes of 
the Bath of Diocletian — a Roman emperor 
who lived over sixteen hundred years ago. It 
was propped and boosted in an artistic manner. 
Near the entrance, inside, there was a model of 
the Thomas Jefferson monument, done by this 
sculptor, just completed and sent to Louisville, 
Kentucky, as a present to that city from one of 
its citizens. The ladies were introduced, his 
Majesty having, previous to their entrance, sent 
in his card. In the conversation about the monu- 
ment referred to the sculptor was pleased to 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 189 

learn that the Countess was related to Thomas 
Jefferson. 

Ezekiel wore a brown velvet cap with tips like 
the wings of Mercury, which was very becoming 
to his pleasant cast of features, and an apron 
so artistically arranged the Princess (who was 
somewhat of an artist herself) said she hated 
to see him take it off, or the cap, either; both 
of which he did, after giving the drapery of the 
Tiberius Caesar — he was making for a friend 
in New York — a final touch or two, before wash- 
ing his hands and putting on his coat. 
"^ After sitting a while in this vast room, with 
models and all kinds of artistic implements 
around, he went with them to explore some of 
the other parts of the building — the Museo Na- 
tionale — where there are antiques (exhumed in 
Rome from public property) and other interest- 
ing relics which he had suggested showing them 
during the conversation. There is a Eoman 
church in the old building, too. It was a treat 
to have one so capable to enlighten them on 
their surroundings. There is a large pottery 
establishment here, also, and what were once 
Carthusian Cloisters, done by Michelangiolo. 
Despite the antiques around the porch and in 
the garden, the court of the old cloisters is very 
sunny and cheerful. The cypress trees here are 
said to have been planted by Michelangiolo. 

On leaving, after they had explored for sev- 
eral hours, Ezekiel appointed a time when he 
hoped they would meet liim at his house for 



190 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

Inncheon. His Majesty and Marjorie accepted. 
His home is also in Diocletian's Bath, and is 
most pecnliarly and ingeniously constructed. 
One ascends a shady, walled slope, with flower 
border on each side of the path, interspersed 
with handsome antiques. At the top of the in- 
cline is a copy of Michelangiolo 's head of David 
he picked up in Rome. The portico is paved 
with mosaic belonging to the house of Lucretia 
Borgia's son, and amid the vines — a little, an- 
cient fountain playing and pigeons cooing — ^was 
stretched overhead what Marjorie told the Prin- 
cess resembled a handsome silk quilt, an awning 
to moderate the light and heat. The luncheon 
was served in a dainty manner by an Italian 
man, and consisted of macaroni soup, fried 
crawfish and other fish, delicious meat and vege- 
tables, various wines, and a dessert that Jove 
might have enjoyed. 

After luncheon he gave them some of the op- 
eras by means of a pianola, having shown them 
around his house when they first arrived. It 
was as spacious as the studio. The recumbent 
Christ, done by himself, and an intaglio in ala- 
baster of a life-size head, was very effective 
with a light thrown on it — his own conceptions, 
he said. 

^/hien leaving he gave them an introduction 
to Lady Gwendolyn, whose father is an English 
earl, and who was traveling a while before mak- 
ing her debut. When the two girls met one 
thought they were not unlike in appearance. 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 191 

The American was more mature in figure and 
manner, but they were both of an age. They 
chatted merrily, as youth will do. 

His Majesty had left his binoculars at her 
castle in England when rambling over it in the 
family's absence — as the foreigners are some- 
times generous enough to let tourists do. They 
were a part of himself, almost. Till he found 
another pair which suited him, the trip seemed 
only half enjoyed. He had sighted vessels on 
the sea and he had watched the porpoises play 
in the ocean. On the Rhine they could have 
drawn the castles nearer than those he rented; 
on the trains they would have enlarged the land- 
scape ; and, as he had given up ever finding them 
and bought others in Geneva, here comes the 
fairy Lady Gwendolyn, who might send them to 
him. Instead, he suggested that she keep them. 
They became quite friendly, and during the con- 
versation the chaperon let slip the fact that she 
really heard there were some nice houses on the 
Hudson River. Alas ! the Princess, who prided 
herself on being from New York, was not around 
to tell the glories of her city. But his Majesty 
replied: ^^ Indeed, madam, some of them are 
grand enough to be called palaces.'' Where- 
upon the Countess suggested that the chaperon 
take Lady Gwendolyn to the United States for 
a visit, and showed her a picture of her own an- 
cestral home, which a certain English duke (who 
visited the family once) had said was very much 
like a castle itself. 



192 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

The drives over some of the terraced hills go 
a long way toward stamping the places of in- 
terest in one's mind, and these were happily 
indulged in for several days by the party after 
reaching Eome. 

They stopped at the great St. Peter's on one 
of these drives — the first place they had been 
to since the sculptor had accompanied them. 
The sight as one approaches is truly magnifi- 
cent — the edifice itself, the portico, the fluted 
pillars in the colonnade, all capped by images 
in such numbers their roofs seem peopled; the 
stone of a creamy gray cast. The colonnades 
consist of four rows of colossal pillars forming 
a semi-circle forward on either side the Basilica 
(church proper). 

The colonnades do not meet, but have a vast 
paved court between them, where fountains 
play, and carriages drive up to the palatial steps 
of St. Peter's; where tall lights scintillate upon 
the sprays of water at night; where a great 
obelisk looms up in the center. In the church 
portico (facing these), suspended above, is a 
stone balcony where the Pope addresses the 
people Ys^hen he has a mind to^ — the colonnade 
to shelter them in bad weather. There is 
room between the two middle rows for two car- 
riages abreast. 

The ceiling of the portico, done in stucco, is 
well worthy of inspection. At the ends of the 
portico are equestrian statues of Constantine 
and Charlemagne. St. Peter's is said to have 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 19 



o 



been founded by Constantine, and was built on 
tlie site of Nero ^s Circus. It is so well propor- 
tioned no one can form any idea of its size from 
viewing it. Some exquisite cherubs on the holy 
water stoups within look like little five-year-old 
children at a short distance, and they are nearly 
six feet high. In the floor of the nave are marks 
showing exactly how much larger it is than some 
other noted cathedrals. The spot where Charle- 
magne, Francis I, Louis XII, and others were 
crowned is marked in the nave by a brown por- 
phyry circle. The floor is beautifully inlaid with 
colored marbles. 

Four great pillars, graindly ornamented, stun 
the sense of size before one reaches the dome, 
which is so vast and loftly, such a conception of 
perfect art, one can realize how truly great was 
Michelangiolo to have thus carried out the de- 
sign. The piers upholding it are over two hun- 
dred feet in circumference, which knowledge is 
apt to take one's breath away in considering 
the dimensions of a building where they do not 
seem inharmonious. 

Beneath the dome is a rotunda with a railing 
and lovely stairs leading below, where St. Peter 
and St. Paul are reputed to be buried. 

No account in profane lore earlier than the 
second century hints at St. Peter having been 
in Eome, but, when you consider his character- 
istics, he most likely was. The Christians were 
so hunted and persecuted for many years there 
was more or less safety in keeping their history 



194 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

from the outside world, and the heathen would 
not think it worth while mentioning the advent 
or martyrdom of one Christian when they 
slaughtered them by the thousands. But it was 
commonly believed that he was at Rome ; handed 
down by word of mouth, among other ways, per- 
haps. 

Lights are kept burning around the rotunda, 
and the devout are praying at all hours. Statues, 
mosaics, colored marble columns and bronze en- 
rich the interior. Helena, mother of Constan- 
tine, is said to have gotten the two colored pil- 
lars from Solomon's Temple, and the bronzet 
columns were brought from a heathen temple. 
It was this Helena who discovered the Holy 
Sepulcher in a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. 

St. Peter 's is all very fresh-looking, and bril- 
liantly colored by the adornments mentioned, 
and interesting for the personalities concerned 
in their presence here. So much of the lore is 
hearsay one cannot tell the false from the true ; 
but, no matter who were or were not concerned 
in the making of it, there is no doubt about it 
being pleasing, and quite to one's taste, however 
fastidious. It speaks for itself. 

At the right, in the nave near the dome, sits 
St. Peter, in bronze, just high enough for de- 
votees to kiss his right foot, which is a little ex- 
tended. The shape of his toes is lost from con- 
stant osculation. Marjorie told his Majesty she 
saw twenty people kiss the great toe, or where 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 195 

it ought to be, while she was standing at the side 
of the extended nave looking at the elaborate 
red and gold chair of St. Peter enthroned at the 
end. 

To the guide, who was pointing out the chair 
and telling her it was an exact copy of one St. 
Peter used when he was first bishop of Rome, 
she said she thought St. Peter was too poor ever 
to have had such a rich-looking chair; and even 
if he had been presented with one, thought he 
would have declined it, as he had too recently 
been under the influence of the Saviour not to 
prefer a simple life. The guide laughed, and 
said the Church of Eome taught what he related 
to her. 

Not far from the chair is a figure of Paulus 
III. The story goes that he requested Michel - 
angiolo to put the figures of his mother and sis- 
ter near him in the same monument; which 
Michelangiolo did, but with the head of Dante 
on his mother's figure and that of Lucretia Bor- 
gia on that of his sister — making them so nude 
the Church was shocked enough to have some 
appropriate drapery put on them. Lucretia 's 
face is very beautiful, but that of Dante is old 
and careworn. Owing to his unbounded genius 
Michelangiolo seems to have been a privileged 
character. History relates that he had seven 
Popes, Charles V, and the proud de Medicis 
^' under his thumb." In the wall of the Cistine 
Chapel, where hell is depicted, he put with 
Charon, Minos, the judge, bearing the face of 



196 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

Biagio Cesena (attendant of Paulus III), be- 
cause he had objected to the nudity of the fig- 
ures. 

St. Peter 's is so immense, portable organs are 
stationed at intervals to be carried where 
needed. On Sunday seats are to be hired out- 
side the door and taken in, if one desires. There 
are none in the church, and the Princess said 
she wished they were to rent during the week, 
for she thought it would be quite comfortable 
to sit down and the more enjoy the surround- 
ings. 

There was service at St. Peter's, at one of the 
altars, while the party were looking through, 
and all went in to it as the bell rang. The chor- 
isters, with deep lace and fine embroidery on 
the short vestments, over their red and purple 
gowns, filed in ; the priests were clothed in rich 
white cloaks, with great gold embroidered 
squares at the back. One priest was so old, or 
so great, he had a servant to hold his cloak back 
as he ascended the steps. He did not enter much 
into the services, but retired to a choir seat on 
high (the choirs sloping on either side), after 
presiding a little. The congregation stood, came 
and went as it pleased, while the organ pealed 
forth and the chants went on. 

The side aisles and transepts are just as hand- 
some and enormous as other divisions of this 
wonderful place. 

Beneath St. Peter's is another church and a 
crypt, and it really would take days to see all 



WJidt Marjorie Saw 'Abroad 197 

to one's satisfaction; but a little of it is better 
than none. 

Taking luncheon at a restaurant just outside 
the piazza, they sat near a window, through 
which they could see one of the fountains and 
look through the nearest colonnade. Afterward 
they strolled leisurely through the colonnades, 
counted the pillars and lingered lovingly around 
them. 

The wing jutting forward on the left of St. 
Peter's, behind the colonnade, is used for the 
Pope's pilgrims, the guide said. Leading from 
the Basilica, back of this, is a covered way to 
the priests' apartments, where the guide said 
were four hundred rooms. The wing on the 
right is a part of the Vatican, and the entrance 
to it is known by the Swiss guards, wearing 
quaint uniforms of red, black and yellow. 
Mounting a glorious flight of stairs, with an 
equestrian statue of Constantine and the cross 
on one of the landings, then more great stairs, 
one reaches the picture gallery. 

The Vatican is so vast, as one proceeds 
through the different portions of it he is lost in 
wonder. There are known to be a thousand 
halls, besides many rooms, and over twenty 
courts, and room after room of new pictures, 
and old pictures and statuary mostly dug up 
around Rome. There are great pieces of tapes- 
try designed by Eaphael — not the Arras, France 
(the beginning of the art in the fourteenth cen- 
tury), but the Brussels, still retaining much 



198 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

ricliness of color. One is led on and on until 
one is thoroug-hly exliansted. The tapestries 
are New Testament scenes. 

The Pope's rooms are not far off from the 
stairs (Scala Eegia), though it is surmised that 
he lives in a sunny villa in or near the garden 
of the Vatican most of the time. His garden 
is at the rear, and is very beautiful, with many 
rows of lemon trees, palms, great cactus bushes, 
flowers and fountains, terraced anywhere and 
everywhere, and carriage drives sweep through 
and around this maze of loveliness. The party 
stood under the Pope's porte-cochere and looked 
through the large gateway. It was very in- 
viting. 

One morning, about eleven o'clock, our tour- 
ists, provided with a letter from their town 
priest (Eomanist), with whom they were on 
good terms, drove up to the right colonnade, 
alighted, and went past the Swiss guards to 
procure their blue papers for admittance and 
await the opening of the Cistine Chapel, where 
the Pope was to receive the Order of Mary and 
other pilgrims. 

As they looked up from the entrance, the long, 
broad, white marble steps were filled with young 
women and old, of the order of Mary, or Maria, 
having long white veils pinned on — some wear- 
ing a blue and some a green ribbon around the 
neck; some all in white, others in black, the 
white veils predominating. 

Marjorie said it reminded her of Jacob's lad- 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 199 

der, the veils like white wings, up, and up, and 
up, until they vanished because one's eyes could 
no longer distinguish. 

In an anteroom they awaited the opening 
of the chapel door. The Swiss guards were on 
duty at this door, the regular army soldiers 
walking around keeping order. The Pope's 
chair — red and gold — sat on one side awaiting 
him, a railing between it and the spectators, also 
a railing on the other side, the two railings form- 
ing an angle outside the door's edge, leaving 
room for the bevy of white-veiled people to pass, 
the door being opened at their approach. 

Some bore elegant banners, some gifts. Spec- 
tators were allowed to go in when these had 
taken their seats in the pews. The spectators 
were so much afraid there would not be room 
for them, each pushed and jostled to get ahead. 
The party held back until the scrimmage was 
over. One poor woman had several hat pins, 
with which her black lace veil was pinned, thrust 
into her head, and her cries were distressing; 
but the crowd bore on. There was room enough 
for all, and no necessity for such lack of cour- 
tesy. 

The Pope, Leo XIII, was borne in the ante- 
room from a side door in a sedan chair, to pro- 
tect him from the draughts of the corridors. 
Reaching the grand red and gold chair (in shape 
like a large arm-chair), he stepped out of the 
other into this; the poles were thrust through, 
and he was borne thus enthroned upon the 



200 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

shoulders of twelve beautifully attired, bare- 
headed pages. Their costumes were of heavy 
cardinal silk, short cutaway frock coats, knee 
breeches, red silk stockings and black patent- 
leather slippers. Down the nave he ^'descend- 
ed" — the Romanists call it — amid thunderous 
applause, as every one arose until Leo XIII was 
set down just before the altar steps. Alighting 
from the chair, he walked up the altar steps, 
assisted by a cardinal — some said the Secretary 
of State. Other priests garbed in black were 
awaiting him on the right at the foot of the 
steps. 

After a short prayer the Pope was relieved 
of his long red silk robe and red, gold-embroid- 
ered silk stole, and sat down in a large, hand- 
some red chair in front of the altar. 

In kneeling posture the head of each order 
kissed his hand, and passed on, unless she had 
a gift to offer, this taking a little more time. 
"White veils fluttered, and the Pope's beautiful 
diamond cross on his breast twinkled like Sirius 
on a cold night. Seated, he wore a white silk 
cassock richly embroidered in gold. 

When the priests in black (pilgrims) ap- 
proached, they knelt and kissed his foot, cased 
in a red slipper and embroidered with a gold 
cross. 

The gorgeous banners were presented, and 
his words of thanks for them and the silver fili- 
gree purse containing two thousand dollars in 
gold^ a handsome album with the donors ' names 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 201 

inscribed, and an exquisite rug, were received 
with shouts of happiness. 

'^I believe they love the dear old man,'' said 
Marjorie. ^^He does not seem to tire, either, 
and he is over ninety, I hear. ' ' 

^'Yes," replied the Princess; ^4ie has such a 
good mind he spends his leisure time writing 
Latin poetry, they tell me. ' ' 

Following the presentation of gifts, a short 
paper was read by an official, assisted by the 
Cardinal, who wore a red silk robe and red skull 
cap. 

The long red silk robe and stole were put on 
the Pope, and he took his seat again in the great 
open chair; the poles were thrust through, the 
twelve handsome young pages lifted him on 
high, and he went out as he came, amid shouts 
of joy and love, the bearers pausing at times 
while he stood to give the blessing. 

The different orders of Mary followed the 
Pope and his attendants; then the spectators 
walked out, pleased at having seen so beautiful 
a ceremony in so great a place. 

In the Cistine Chapel the Pope holds all the 
services at which he officiates. It is frescoed 
throughout. On the left walls are scenes from 
the life of Moses, symbolical of the coming of 
the Kedeemer to deliver the world from the 
slavery of sin, as Moses saved the Israelites 
from the Egyptians. On the right wall are 
events in the history of the Saviour. In one 



202 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

scene He is giving the keys of Heaven to St. 
Peter. Tliese are fine examples of the Floren- 
tine school, and were begnn about 1481 and done 
by several great artists. 

On the ceiling Michelangiolo has carried out 
the same symbol as the others — the Creator, the 
creation, including Noah and the prophets; on 
the altar wall, the Last Judgment. The devil 
tempting Eve is a man from his waist up, the 
rest of him coiled around a tree. By others, on 
the entrance wall, are the Eesurrection of Christ 
and the archangel Michael contending for the 
body of Moses. 

Michelangiolo 's work in the Cistine Chapel 
and Eaphael's stanze (rooms) in the Vatican 
rival each other in perfection of art. 

The many, many details in this chapel are too 
numerous to mention. Suffice it to say that 
Michelangiolo was four years doing his part, 
and the chapel is one hundred and thirty or 
more feet long and forty-five feet wide. To 
view the ceiling with any pleasure, one should 
have a mirror, which can be had for the asking. 

The Vatican contains the finest collection of 
antiquities in the world — among them the Torso 
of Hercules, Apollo Belvedere, and the Lao- 
coon.^ The Torso of Hercules — though it has not 
the lion skin usually accompanying his repre- 
sentations — ^has the name of Apollonius of 
Athens inscribed. He is supposed to have lived 
the first century B.C. There are several con- 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 203 

jectures concerning it, but its value is great, for 
it was found preserved in the palace of Colonna 
about the middle of 1400 A.D. The Apollo, in 
marble, is supposed to be a copy of a fine Greek 
work made probably in the fourth century B.C. 
It was found at Antium, not far from Rome, 
near the end of the fifteenth century, and put 
in the Vatican through Michelangiolo 's influ- 
ence. There are many conjectures concerning 
tlie original, but nothing definite is known. The 
future may develop the truth. The Laocoon, of 
marble, was found in 1506 A.D. in the baths of 
Titus, who flourished 79 A.D. Pliny mentioned 
it as the work of three Ehodians, who from re- 
cent developments are supposed to have lived 
100 B. C. According to a Greek legend, Lao- 
coon and his two sons were attacked by serpents 
because he married against the wishes of the 
god Apollo. He had also warned the Trojans 
against the wooden horse left there by the 
Greeks, which proved disastrous to them. 

The Sala di Constantino is very interesting. 
On the long wall are the Battle of Constantine, 
in which the cross prevailed; his baptism; Rome 
presented by Constantine (whose reign began 
A.D. 337) to Sylvester I, and numerous others. 
All but two of the Muses were found near Tivoli 
in 1774, and perhaps are a copy of a group by 
Praxitiles (340 B.C.) or of his school. 

The coachman told the party that St. Peter's, 
the Vatican and gardens comprised at least an 



204 What Marjorie 8aw Abroad 

area of five miles around. His Majesty said he 
would not be surprised if it were more. 

It may be a little more expensive, but for com- 
fort and to save time it is an excellent idea to 
have an authorized guide who speaks one's own 
language, as well as the language of the coun- 
try. He will give you the clue, at once, how to 
find what you want to know quickly in your 
guide-book, and more often than not you will 
find he has told you the correct thing. His Maj- 
esty had one whenever he could find the right 
sort. At this time — perhaps because it was just 
before the Pope's Silver Jubilee — many pil- 
grims were in the city, and the Princess said 
it was the best time to see the Scala Santa 
(sainted stairs) reputed to have been brought 
from the palace of Pontius Pilate, and to have 
been once tread by the feet of the Saviour. 
These stairs are in what is left of the old Lat- 
eran (the Popes' home before they lived perma- 
nently in the Vatican), near what is commonly 
called St. John in Later ano. The marble of the 
steps is covered with wood for protection, and 
one can ascend only on the knees. As the party 
entered, the steps were crowded with kneeling 
figures. On either side there are two flights of 
stone steps to descend from. Altogether it 
seems simply to be a house of stairs. On reach- 
ing the top of the Scala Santa the devotees rise 
and walk to the screened windows of a sacred 
altar immediately in front of the stairs and 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 205 

pray. The party, not being of that faith, went 
up and down tlie other stairs. 

In this place there is the same richness and 
beauty that there is in all the Roman churches. 
A group of statuary on either side the foot of 
the Scala Santa, and other pieces in sight, give 
adornment and relieve the sameness of so many 
stairs, though the statuary itself is not of the 
finest workmanship. St. John, or San Giovanni 
in Laterano, named from the family (Laterani) 
who once owned the old palace in which one of 
the emperors made a church and presented it 
to Sylvester I, ^'is the only church on earth 
which has a Pope for a bishop, '' the coachman 
boasted. It is now extraordinarily elegant. 

After vicissitudes with an earthquake and 
fires, it has been changed and worked up to its 
present condition — an elegant piazza and por- 
tico in front, glorious frescoed ceiling in the 
Renaissance, lovely inlaid floor, statues of the 
prophets and apostles, and all to make it rich 
in effect. A loggia outside, similar to that at 
St. Peter's, where the Pope could give the bene- 
diction, was added for the purpose. 

The Church of Maria Maggiore is immense 
and handsome. Its approach, through the large 
piazza, and its ornamentations render it impos- 
ing. It enjoys the reputation of having a piece 
of the true manger wrought into one which re- 
calls the whole scene of the birth of Christ. The 
church was begun in the fourth century, and 
the marble columns and mosaics of the old 



206 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

churcli are retained in the present edifice. It 
took years to build most of tlie churclies, and 
they were continually undergoing changes or 
enlargement. Each generation wanted some- 
thing to stamp it ; hence chapels were added, and 
other distinguishing marks. 



CHAPTER XV 

Though they are not as thick as hops, which 
some make out, anywhere in Italy a bevy of 
children — some half naked — are always hanging 
about trying to discover your shoe untied, if you 
are walking, something wrong about the car- 
riage, if you are driving, which they are quick 
to rectify or to give you notice of, hoping it may 
draw a cent or two. The favorite pastime is to 
turn somersaults for a half-mile or so, expecting 
a coin for the entertainment they imagine they 
give. One meets, them in bunches in drives on 
the city outskirts mainly. 

Outside the great gate making the northern 
entrance to Rome the Borghese gardens lie. The 
Borghese were rich and powerful. Their for- 
mer belongings, like those of the de Medicis in 
Florence and elsewhere, are seen all over Rome. 
The villa in the garden is now a museum. Its 
high garden walls, its beautiful fagade and ex- 
tensive grounds are most elegant. Within, the 
villa abounds in statuary. A lovely piece, of 
Pauline Buonaparte Borghese, by Canova, is in 
one of the front rooms. Outside, on the house, 
there are also handsome figures. 

A vast estate the present Prince had. ''About 

207 



208 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 

twenty-five palaces, and only one left,'' the 
coachman said. The villa and grounds were 
sold, the fall our tourists were there, for over a 
million dollars, the King generously giving a 
large portion toward its purchase. As one en- 
ters the north gate — where St. Peter and St. 
Paul stand boldly out in marble — from the Bor- 
ghese gardens, the Piazza Popolo leads to the 
Monte Pincio. Here statuary runs all the way 
up, forming a beautiful fagade on the hillside 
adjoining the piazza. Palms, cacti and all kinds 
of vegetation beautify the surroundings; mar- 
ble sphinxes sit stolid along the walls looking 
on the Egyptian monolith in the center of the 
court or piazza below; the Three Marys — one 
over Nero's tomb (presumably) — in full view. 
The Three Marys are Roman churches. 

On the Pincio are beautiful drives where the 
band plays at a certain place; where swelldom 
meets late in the afternoon, exchanging visits 
in their carriages, and enjoy the lovely sur- 
roundings. Going out one sees the Villa Med- 
icis, containing a collection of value not in Rome 
itself. Across the Tiber, farther south, is the 
Passeggiata Margherita — a drive. 

One enters a gate and goes through a beauti- 
ful garden, like fairyland, where the wide road 
sweeps, bordered on either side with busts of 
modern Italians of celebrity, and goes past a 
handsome monument of Garibaldi mounted on 
a noble-looking steed, by Gallori. It is sur- 
rounded by groups of other designs, and alto- 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 209 

gether very elegant. Amid beautiful trees and 
luxurious growth of palms and flowers, on an 
elevation, and winding footpaths leading up or 
down to sweet places, the drive continues. "When 
it goes down it leads to Tasso's oak, which has 
an inscription written thereon against the tree- 
trunk which ordinary mortals cannot decipher. 
Our tourists alighted and sat under the oak, and 
wondered if it would do them any good to touch 
elbows with the tryst of an unevenly balanced 
individual like Tasso. Great poet and unfortu- 
nate man, he deserves our sympathy. Just as 
the tide began to turn he was lifted from his 
carriage into the Monastery of St. Onofrio, died, 
and was buried there in 1595, not far from the 
oak, where a beautiful view of Rome lies before 
one. His tomb is in the first chapel. 

On the same side of the river, on one of the 
drives, though in the opposite direction, the 
party got out at San Pietro in Monto. Hurry- 
ing through the church, the priest conducted 
them outside to a little domed chapel. The main 
part seemed to be underground, for he led them 
down a flight of outer steps, where he said St. 
Peter had been crucified on an inverted cross. 
He reached through a hole, made in the floor 
for the purpose, with a hoe and pulled up some 
sand, and gave it to those of the party who 
wanted it. Marjorie took some. The little room 
was very sweet and lined entirely with marble 
ornamentation in tasteful patterns. Eeturning 
to the piazza in front of the church, they beheld 



210 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

Rome from the height in all the glory of her 
beauty. 

St. Paul's prison, later called the Mamartine, 
where he and St. Peter, it is said, were confined, 
will always be interesting to Christian pilgrims. 
There are steps to descend to it, for it is under- 
ground, though the steps were not there then, 
and these two distinguished prisoners were let 
down by ropes through a round hole in the up- 
per floor. 

A well is shown, which good Romanists give 
out was caused by a miracle for the illustrious 
saints to baptize with. Though their bodies 
were put to rest under the rotunda at St. 
Peter's, their heads are buried at St. John in 
Laterano, already mentioned, and some of their 
bones, according to tradition, are scattered all 
over the world. 

From the prison they went to the church 
erected in St. Paul's honor, and called San 
Puola fuori le Mura. It is like the dream of 
marble halls. The first great nave has portraits 
of the saints as a frieze, and Christ and the 
Apostles in the main altar. The other room or 
cross nave — ^both literally lined with marble — 
has the portraits of the Popes for a frieze. This 
part is chaste, beautiful, and grand, with about 
eighty elegant marble columns on either side, 
forming arches as they proceed. In this in- 
stance St. Paul has fairly won on earth the glory 
he coveted in Heaven — to die for his Lord. 

Late one afternoon the party drove to the 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 211 

Three Fountains. After going some distance 
the road went down into a valley, and it seemed 
very sweet and secluded here. The supposition 
is that St. Paul's head, when he was decapitated, 
bounded three times as it rolled from the block, 
opening a fountain at each spot where it 
touched the earth. The stone pillar or block on 
which his head was laid is shown along with the 
fountains. 

The tall eucalyptus trees and the undulating 
grounds are very fetching, and are approached 
by a handsome gate. One can look through and 
get a grateful perspective before entering. Of 
the three churches, one goes first to that which 
has the fountains and the block, arranged in 
handsome style against the church wall, inside — 
each fountain liaving a little well beneath. The 
priest took a dipper lying near and offered the 
party a drink. His Majesty took one, but the 
others said it was too dark in there to see what 
they were drinking, and took one outside, where 
there was a nice spring. The coachman called 
the inmates Friar Brothers, and said they were 
rich, owning much land around the monastery. 
They and their place look well-to-do. He thought 
there were about fifty of them. The real name 
of these priests seems to be Trappist, but to 
those not of their religion one is no doubt as 
good as the other. 

One of these escorted the party around, telling 
them that he was the only member of the fra- 
ternity who spoke English, and that only four 



212 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

of them were allowed to talk when they wanted 
to. 

**Yon must be pleased to see English-speak- 
ing tourists ; then you have a chance/' Marjorie 
said. 

^'I am glad to see Americans," he replied; 
and, after digging around in his clothes for a 
minute or two, extricated a button, the size of 
a dime, with the United States flag on it. The 
head of some religious order in the United 
States had spent a fortnight here, and had prom- 
ised, he said, to send for him. He said he had 
never forgotten all he had heard about the 
United States, and suggested to Marjorie to 
send him a ticket as she was leaving the country. 
She, having heard that they were so rich, 
thought there must be a reason for this request 
connected with a vow to the order, and laugh- 
ingly replied : 

' ' Shan't I send you some of my clothes, too V^ 

Then the Princess and she got to giggling 
over the funny figure Brother Clement — which 
was not his name — would appear in Marjorie 's 
clothes, and under their influence he became 
quite merry. Marjorie said she liked that lively 
priest, and that she was going to try, in the 
proper way, to get him where he wanted to be, 
if it fell in her way. He gave her his card and 
told her where to send it. 

The conversation went on while they were 
walking around the court, after he had con- 
ducted them to the chapel under which St. Paul 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 213 

was incarcerated a few hours before he was be- 
headed. No sunlight penetrated the room — only 
a few dull rays from the outer hall windows. 
Near the prison, on the opposite side of the cor- 
ridor, he told them thousands of Christians were 
buried, and that they had been slaughtered by 
the heathen emperor after they had worked 
seven years on Diocletian's Bath. Now this is 
crumbling away and the Christians are having 
their day. 

Those who have not seen the dungeons, the 
torture chambers, nor heard the vicious tales 
which tourists hear, do not know the agony men 
and women have endured for their religion; do 
not realize what strong characters have existed. 
The remains of a Temple of Neptune in Eome 
are now built into an Exchange for these de- 
spised Christians, the Corinthian columns out- 
side giving quite an air of distinction, and show- 
ing the vanity of the heathen ambitions. 

Having walked down the slope from the 
prison chapel, they crossed the court and en- 
tered what to Marjorie looked somewhat like a 
store inside, having a counter running along 
near the wall. Here the friar took to his heels, 
through a half-open door, and disappeared, 
after telling them he would bring them a drink 
of liqueur of his own make. The Princess said 
if she were writing a book, the heels, the door — 
the tout ensemble — would make a good picture. 
The priest was garbed in brown, a long, loose 
frock tied with a cord. With the liqueur he 



214 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

brought some dear little glasses to drink it from. 
Marjorie wondered if he made such a selection 
of glasses for everybody. The liqueur is made 
on the place and offered to tourists who come 
along. 

Eeturning, it was almost dark near Constan- 
tino's arch, which was illuminated with gas, and 
the Coliseum had a circle of gas lamps around 
it, truly blending the ancient and modern — the 
half-moon shining through its ruins. 

As night was coming on Marjorie got a little 
uneasy. She said that she had always heard 
that there were so many thieves in the Italian 
cities, especially at evening, and when any 
rough workmen passed she always smiled her 
sweetest to make them kindly disposed. It was 
too late to linger or explore, and the party de- 
cided to do so the next day. However, they 
stopped a little and admired the Coliseum as it 
stood out alone beneath the orb of night and 
sparkle of the lights — a silent monument of the 
past. 

^'My, what a noble place the Coliseum is!" 
they all exclaimed, as the great ruin loomed up 
before them by daylight, with its tier upon tier 
of massive stone and brick. There was a place 
set apart for the Emperor to sit, stairs for him 
and his suite to ascend — stairs for every one, 
great, broad flights of them. The colossal stone 
columns surrounding it were joined by iron — no 
crumbling here of mortar ; but, alas ! the needs 
of war demanded the iron, and the columns are 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 215 

marred with holes. The building extends over 
six hundred feet on one side, and over ^ve hun- 
dred on the other, making an elipse. 

The arena of this vast building was so ar- 
ranged and the floor so constructed the latter 
could be taken up at pleasure and water turned 
in for naval combats, to entertain the pleasure- 
wearied emperors ; and here the Christians were 
tortured by wild beasts for pagan pleasure. Our 
tourists were shown a house upon the hill above 
where the beasts had been kept; the place in 
the Coliseum where they entered the arena; 
where those who were to combat them entered; 
the room where the women were taken; where 
the dead were dragged out; and the picture of 
the whole scene was presented as graphically as 
any author has depicted. 

The Coliseum was begun by Vespasian, who 
began to reign in 69 A.D., and was finished by 
Titus, about eleven years later. It was erected 
over the once beautiful and extensive gardens 
Nero had laid out around his wonderful golden 
house. A splendid colossal statue of himself, 
gilded and representing him as a god of the sun, 
assisted in the decorations of the gardens. And 
it perhaps accounts for the name, Colosseum, 
given to this site later. 

The Furum Eomanum, which is distinct from 
the emperors' fora, with Caesar's palace and the 
other great ancient buildings around it, are fast 
CTTimbling away, though excavations in recent 
years have disclosed some handsome marbles. 



216 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

The party rambled tlirough the ruins while 
an authorized guide and a guide-book explained 
the littered way. 

The Romans designated the word ^ 'forum" 
to mean an open place where people met to 
transact business, both political and mercantile. 
There was only one during the republic; but 
under the emperors who wished to distinguish 
themselves others arose. Among them the most 
magnificent was Trajan's. The coaclnxian ex- 
plained the word ''forum" to them by saying it 
meant "business"; that at the Coliseum, on the 
other hand, the people congregated for pleasure. 

Trajan's Forum is in another part of the city, 
and in ruins; the columns in the arena of it 
broken and lying in the hollow in memory of 
ancient days in the midst of modern buildings, 
the old and the new ; St. Peter now standing on 
a tall column where Trajan's figure once domi- 
nated the place. Trajan came to the throne in 
98 A.D. 

As old as Rome is, it is fresh and progressive- 
looking, and many handsome buildings going up, 
which, by way of contrast, show off against the 
old ones. A dingy tower on which the coach- 
man said Nero played the fiddle at the burning 
of Rome was pointed out by him. Whether he 
was joking or not Marjorie never knew. He did 
not seem to be a joker. 

The Quirinal, King Victor Emmanuel's pal- 
ace, fronts on a paved piazza which has a mag- 
nificent fountain in the center, of horses, figures 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 217 

and an obelisk. It has a history in itself. The 
horses, called ''The Horse Tamers/' were done 
during the time of the emperors after the man- 
ner of Lysippus (Greek, 372-316 B.C.). The 
obelisk is from the tomb of Augustus, and was 
erected there in the first century. The Foreign 
Minister's Palace stands across the street, on 
one side. A small upper balcony projecting 
from the King's Palace serves as a stand for 
the King when he wishes to speak to the crowd. 

The palace is stone and yellow stucco on the 
outside ; all in harmony — gold, crystal, brocade 
and tapestry within. Nothing seemed worn or 
had a used look. Marjorie said she believed her 
home could sit comfortably in the state dining- 
room; but youth is given to exaggerations, and 
true dimensions can rarely be gathered by the 
eye in a harmonious building. 

The throne-room in the Quirinal is red and 
gold, the throne at one end, a handsome chair 
sitting on a dai's. There is a canopy of rich ma- 
terial above, and a seat on either side, presum- 
ably for the monarch's consort and a member 
of the family. 

The garden about the palace is very^ luxu- 
rious. Eows of lemon trees filled with fruit lend 
a pleasing air. 

From here the party went to the Eospigliosi 
Palace to see Guido Eeni's great masterpiece, 
The Aurora, on the ceiling, and apparently life- 
size. Sitting down in front of a slanting mir- 
ror, arranged as though it were a cover to a 



218 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 

school desk, one can inspect the painting com- 
fortably and examine the details, after strain- 
ing the neck to see the real painting. The stone 
stairs leading to the show-rooms wind around 
so gracefully and are so handsome they are 
worthy of admiration in themselves. The pal- 
ace was erected in 1603 by the nephew of Pope 
Paul V on the ruins of Constantine's Bath, and 
is called after the Rospigliosi family. It is the 
seat of some embassy to the Vatican. The Pan- 
theon, founded by Agrippa (27 B.C.), son-in- 
law of Augustus Caesar, and once filled with 
heathen gods, has been used since the sixth cen- 
tury as a Christian church. 

A beautiful stone porch with eight stone col- 
umns lets one into a massive door which opens 
into a vast circular room with a large round 
hole in the middle of a domed ceiling. Some 
of the heathens worshiped the sun, and that was 
the only way to let him in. The rain pours in 
through this opening, which was noticed by the 
party, who went in just after a shower; but the 
water soon runs off through drains or holes in 
the floor for the purpose. 

Raphael, the great artist, is buried here, also 
King Victor Emmanuel 11,* and some celebrated 
artists, among others. The tombs are more or 
less ornamented, ranged around a well-paved 
floor against the walls. The building is of brick 
and veneered outside with marble, much of 
which they could see had fallen oif . A fountain 

*I think he has since b?^n moYe4. 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 219 

in front adds to the surroundings outside, and 
the piazza gave room enough for the party to 
get a fair view of it. 

The approach to Hadrian's tomb is over the 
Ponte Sant' Angelo, a beautiful bridge crossing 
the Tiber, ornam^ented with statues. This, with 
immense angels, St. Peter and St. Paul, stand- 
ing out boldly above the railing, make a 
very attractive whole. The original bridge was 
built by Hadrian, A.D. 136, and named after 
him. The tomb is also called Castle Sant' An- 
gelo because Gregory the Great thought he saw 
St. Michael sheathing his sword above the tomb 
when praying for a release from the plague, and 
over which a chapel was erected in memory of 
the vision, which meant that the plague would 
soon cease. 

The tomb can be \dsited on the way to St. 
Peter's, as this is the route to St. Peter's, but 
the party went where it suited them. Wanting 
to see some places thoroughly, they sometimes 
went by one so as to have more time for others, 
then returned on another day to what they had 
passed. 

The tomb is as much like a castle, when one 
gets inside, as any castle they saw. Hadrian, 
and the emperors and families to Caracalla, 
were buried here, and they made it rich in stat- 
uary all around the margin, the top capped in 
the middle by a grand statue of Hadrian him- 
self. 

Later, the tomb was used as a fort, and the 



220 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

stone figures decorating it hurled down upon 
the enemy. The Popes used it as a dwelling. 
It has a beautiful chamber, frescoed all over, 
used by Paulus III, who was so progressive he 
had an elevator to transport him up to this 
chamber for his dinner. He became Pope in 
1534. This Paulus was the chief promoter of 
the Inquisition, and the secrets of the dread 
tribunal were discussed in a room above. 

Beatrice Cenci was confined here in a cell, low 
and damp, into which they also went. When 
one sees her sweet-faced picture, one never 
thinks of her strength, never reflects how her 
life's history was enacted in one of the most 
remarkable and painful eras. 



CHAPTER XVI 

Via Appia was made for a military road 312 
B.C., and is one of the interesting drives of 
Rome. For some distance the road is bounded 
by high Walls with vineyards outside; farther 
along one sees the country, the ruins of aque- 
ducts, the remains of tombs, and the mountains. 

On the drive the coachman stopped at the 
ruins of Caraccalla's Bath. Marjorie and his 
Majesty, after consulting the Countess and the 
Princess, usually made out a list of places and 
showed them to him, and he fitted them into the 
hours very nicely. There is always an author- 
ized guide or keeper to show one through, for 
little or nothing, and good guide-books to do the 
rest. 

In the bath the roofs are gone, which is not 
singular when one remembers that Caraccalla 
became emperor in A.D. 212 and reigned only 
six or seven years ; but the bath was extended 
and finished by his two immediate successors. 
There was a race track around it, and a wall. 
The mosaics in the floors of the rooms which 
have been cleared of a deposit of dirt are in ex- 
cellent condition and the patterns beautiful. 
Marjorie said she wondered people of influence 

221 



222 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

did not buy them and pave their floors with 
them, instead of leaving them to be covered up, 
keeping only enough for show. She scraped the 
dirt away in many places and saw some beauti- 
ful designs ; then she realized the wisdom of the 
sculptor friend over whose handsome paved 
floor she had lunched. 

The emperors erected the baths to ingratiate 
themselves with the people. They were public 
baths, and were large and elegant. Though on 
a much grander scale, they may be compared 
to clubs of now-days where members go to kill 
time or amuse themselves. In them were gym- 
nasiums, places for other sorts of amusements, 
libraries, gardens, and sometimes theaters. 
Many unique articles are buried under the ruins 
and excavated from time to time. Marjorie pro- 
cured a very odd-shaped earthen pitcher, about 
ten inches high, with a Eoman soldier for a 
handle, encircled by a dado of horsemen and 
gladiators battling with one another. This val- 
uable relic was carried all the way home in her 
hand, the music box having been put in the 
trunk on reaching Florence. 

The bath, one can see from the remains, was 
once as large as a good-sized palace, and de- 
scriptions of baths tell us nothing was spared 
to give them the rich, voluptuous appearance 
Rome always possesses. Statuary abounded in 
profusion, and stone benches of attractive de- 
signs, their seats no doubt being covered with 
soft silk cushions, for Eome is not a warm place 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 223 

all the year round. Frescoes adorned the walls 
and ceiling, and one can, with little imagination, 
draw a very luxurious picture of a Roman bath. 

Some little distance from the bath the coach- 
man stopped at another place and informed the 
party that ' ' in there is the tomb of Scipio Af ri- 
canus," nodding his head toward a sort of up- 
heaval of earth with growth on top. 

Getting out and opening a gate, they walked 
upward to what seemed a cave, and had to make 
considerable noise before the keeper appeared 
from the outside somewhere. He seemed very 
old and weak, but he took them to another little 
cave, not far off, and got from a small shelf 
near the entrance a candle for each. 

The Princess thought this very interesting 
and mysterious, especially when they all 
marched in the first cave, with bated breath and 
lighted candles, to the unknown. The candles 
were in candlesticks, and easily carried, walk- 
ing up and down the undulating way ; but Mar- 
jorie got to wondering what would happen to 
them if the feeble old man lost his memory or 
would suddenly fall down and die — she knew 
that they had turned off from the main entrance, 
but no more. However, they reached the name 
of Scipio Africanus after no long walk, and as 
she saw the inscription her thoughts wandered 
to the Eoman lady who called her sons *^my 
jewels," and who wondered why every one 
called her ''Cornelia, the mother of the Grac- 
chi," instead of ''the daughter of Scipio Afri- 



224 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

canus." After Caesar, lie was Eome's greatest 
general, bringing Spain, Northern Africa, and 
what he knew of Asia under the Eoman yoke, 
taking the command at the age of twenty-four, 
under adverse circumstances. He died in 
183 B.C. 

Along the way the carriage stopped at Dom- 
ine Quo Vadis, where, they were informed, St. 
Peter saw the vision in which he was told to re- 
turn to Rome and suffer martyrdom, and where 
tradition says the footprints of the Saviour 
were left to emphasize it. Farther on the foot- 
prints were shown them, after entering San Si- 
bastiano, over the Via Appia catacombs, and 
hunting up a priest, whom they had to drag 
from his knees almost, he was praying so ar- 
dently. All around the dainty church, or rather 
on either side, are alcoves similar to those in 
JSTotre Dame in Paris, where an altar in each 
shows through a grating. On the right, about 
the middle of the row, the party was let in, and 
there against the wall, enclosed with grating, 
were the sacred evidences of the vision seen 
with the aid of a lighted taper which the priest 
held near. 

On the tourists went from this place, stopping 
at a small gate in a high wall, where the coach- 
man announced the Catacombs of St. Calixtus. 
Entering the gate on foot and walking along 
for about a quarter of a mile, they saw a little 
house of one or two rooms, in a field or vine- 
yard. This they entered, seeing a door open. 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 225 

There was a priest behind a counter, who fur- 
nished them and others who followed with ta- 
pers and a guide, the tapers about a foot long 
and not quite the size of an ordinary pencil. 

Marjorie said she judged from the candles 
they were not going far, but they held out longer 
than she expected. The thought was well, how- 
ever, for she needed cheering reflections after 
the gloomy history the place recalls. She had 
asked the coachman to take them to a mild one. 
The priest guide had a lengthy cane, with a long 
taper similar to those of the others wound close- 
ly about a foot of it. Going around outside to 
the back of the little house, they entered a door, 
and, descending a flight of steps, they were soon 
fairly in. Marjorie thought it all right down 
there after she got used to it. It was not unpleas- 
antly damp, she thought, and there were not 
so many skeletons that they were forced upon 
her notice. The ceilings in the corridors have 
electric lights in one or two places, which is com- 
forting, and the tiers of graves on each side are 
mostly open and empty. She thought they re- 
sembled sleepers on the train, except that they 
were made of stone and had no curtains. Some 
of the Popes were buried here. St. Cecilia's 
monument is here, also a recumbent figure of 
her in marble. There is a great deal told about 
her musical powers and great goodness. There 
is a little chapel, and some of the tombs of the 
rich were lined with marble and carved in nice 



226 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

designs, and had frescoes on the walls, a pea- 
cock among them. 

The Christians congregated here during the 
persecutions and had their dead buried here, 
the Romans believing in cremation and storing 
the ashes away in urns. 

When the party were down there a man among 
the eight or ten English-speaking tourists said 
he did not feel well and must get out, and the 
priest had to leave the others to show him the 
way. Marjorie told the Princess she would have 
gone, too, and made the others go, if another 
party just behind had not had a guide. The 
latter were all Germans and had a German 
guide. However, their English-speaking guide 
returned while they were quaking in their boots 
at being left, and they continued their way. The 
passages were not level ; they went up and down 
and around ; once or twice they went down some 
steps. Finally Marjorie saw daylight at the 
head of a long flight of steps with a glass door 
somewhere on it, and she knew she was near 
the end. 

The sun was just down, and the priest pointed 
all around the field and said the Catacombs ex- 
tended about fifty miles around, but he had 
shown them only enough to know what they were 
like. 

There was a railing around the opening of 
the exit stairs, which were only a few feet from 
those they first descended. Both entrances had 
doors, which must be kept locked, or they would 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 227 

be of no use. The fear of robbers, which some 
people discuss — in these catacombs, at least — is 
all a bugbear. The candles were used up — just 
enough left to hold by. Marjorie said she would 
keep her remnant to remember the occasion, if 
it needed any stimulus, though she did not think 
it possible; still, it would be nice to show to 
friends. 

Not far from S. Puola fuori le Mura is the 
English cemetery, with ' ^ Resurectus " written 
over the gate. After walking straight from this 
gate on a broad gravel path, and going up a few 
steps, a little to the left, one finds a flat stone, 
under some trees, its head toward the wall, and 
inscribed : 

''Percy Bysshe Shelley, 

Cor Cordium, 
Natus IV aug. mdcccxcii. 

' ' ' Nothing of him that doth fade 
But doth suffer a sea change 
Into something rich and strong.' '' 

Marjorie stooped and picked a leaf, closing it in 
her item book. Only his ashes lie here; his 
heart was not burned when his body was cre- 
mated, according to the Greek custom. It was 
preserved and was taken to Boscomb, England. 
He was lost while boating on the Gulf of Sper- 
zia, near Genoa, Italy, where he lived at the 
time. 

In the same garden, but over the wall by an- 



228 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

other gate, led to from the outside, in what is 
called the old cemetery, lies the poet Keats, his 
dear friend Severn by his side. Majorie 
had never thought much about Keats, but the 
hopeless epitaph, ''Here lies one whose name 
is writ in water, ' ' touched her nature, inasmuch 
as he had ordered it put on; and she gathered 
a few leaves to remind her not to give up like 
Keats, as may be natural with young and tender 
natures, but to struggle on, satisfied and con- 
tented that she was doing her best. But Keats 
did not have her happy home to guide, encour- 
age and cheer, nor her health. Health and good 
cheer often make the man or woman. He died 
far from home, in his twenty-sixth year, at 
Eome, of consumption. He went to Italy for his 
failing health, dying some months after, in 1821, 
and of a broken heart over his imaginary fail- 
ures, it is generally thought. But I imagine his 
heart was broken over his bad health more 
than anything else. His "Lamia,'' with the 
exception of a few lines and phrases, is 
considered exquisite. Also the "Eve of St. Ag- 
nes." Had he lived he would most likely have 
seen his name "writ'' in something more sub- 
stantial than water, even as it now is. 

Villa Farnesina, on the west bank of the 
Tiber, is a good example of the Renaissance. 
The edifice is a two-story building, not very 
large, but the gardens extend to the river, and 
were quite capacious before the changes in the 
river were made. The most interesting features 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 229 

are the mytliological paintings by Eapliael. The 
prestige of the characters, the reputed beauty 
of many of them, Venus drawn in her chariot 
by doves, the situation, the wedding or nuptials, 
gave a wide scope for this great artist to paint 
something very fascinating. In another room, 
his picture of Galatea in a shell riding the sea, 
surrounded by Nymphs, Tritons, and such crea- 
tures as mythology always represents scenes, 
is still more skilfully done. Other exquisite 
types of Eenaissance are EaphaePs Sibyls re- 
cording the revelations which they are receiv- 
ing from angels, the Sibyl of Cumse, the Per- 
sian, the Phrygian, and that of Tibur. These 
are in the first chapel, Santa Maria delta Pace. 
According- to Greek and Roman legend a Sibyl 
was an oracle or prophetess. 

Rome is embellished with many magnificent 
fountains fairly reveling in splendid groups of 
statuary. The waters of Fontana Trevi have 
the power, so say the natives, of bringing one 
back to. Rome if one drinks with a proviso on 
leaving. The coachman seemed desirous that 
they should all take a drink; in fact, he sug- 
gested it. Marjorie said she did not think she 
would ever return, but thought it would do no 
harm to take one. This she did the evening be- 
fore leaving — when a small Italian handed her 
a drink in a glass the coachman had procured 
at a neighboring store — at the same time carry- 
ing out the proviso, which is to throw a coin in 
the pool of the fountain, much to the astonish- 



230 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

ment of the boy, who thought she was going to 
give it to him for catching the drinking water 
from a spout at the side. He looked so wistfully 
at the spot where it fell she regretted she had 
not another for him; but to accommodate all 
the seemingly needy, she said, one would have 
to bring a maid with a bag of coin along at every 
outing. His Majesty told her to comfort her- 
self — that before she was out of sight the boy 
would wade in and get the coin. 

The Princess had all along intended to remain 
in Italy through the winter, but she remained 
with her party till the time of parting. She 
was quite equal to two special cavaliers, besides 
others who hovered around; and perhaps she 
had three special ones, for Mr. Duke (now in 
Eome with the boys) himself was quite atten- 
tive, but said he had no chance with those ^Hwo 
youngsters." Whether right or not, one can- 
not say. His manners were more fascinating 
than those of most men, and Kalph inherited 
them in a degree. 

The berths of his Majesty, wife and daughter 
had been engaged on a certain ship, and he said 
they just had time to see Naples. As Mr. Duke 
and the young men with him were to remain 
abroad longer, they did not hurry to Naples, 
though Ealph would have been delighted to go, 
and we know all about Peter's desire. Polite- 
ness required him to remain in Rome with his 
party, and the Prince, being free to follow the 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 231 

Princess to Naples, might get the inside track 
of him. He knew, however, that Ralph and the 
old gentlem.an would go to Naples soon to see 
their newly made friends off for the United 
States, and he consoled himself with this 
thought. But when Peter & Co. reached Naples 
poor Peter found the Prince so far advanced 
he thought it well the parties were soon to break 
up. 



CHAPTEE XVII 

Naples, it is said, is larger than any other 
Italian city. According to the loquacious young 
coachman, who was enterprising enough to have 
studied English with a view of going to Amer- 
ica, there are three girls born for every boy, and 
out of the eight hundred thousand inhabitants 
six hundred thousand are females. He took 
great pride in showing the palace of a prince 
who had married a rich American lady, and 
remarked that he would like to go to the United 
States himself to try to find a rich wife, but that 
he had to serve three years in the army before 
he could leave the country; that if he left with- 
out a permit he would be liable to be caught and 
put in jail. He was very communicative, and 
had a written recommendation as to his knowl- 
edge in the lore of Naples and the interesting 
places there. The party drew him out, and were 
entertained as well as amused by his wit and 
egotism. 

Stopping one day at a store, Marjorie went 
into the street, after finishing her purchases, 
while waiting for the others, to look into the 
display windows, as well as up and down the 
street — there is always something interesting 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 23 



o 



to see in an Italian city. Gionne (as I shall call 
him) jumped from the box and undertook to 
explain the pictures to her, she asking about 
some whose names she could not make out in 
Italian. 

^ ' That 's our Queen, ' ' he said ; ^ ' Elena. She is 
German, and very nice. That's our King," 
pointing to one of Victor Emmanuel III, with- 
out waiting for any comment on his first an- 
nouncement. "He is good for everybody, but 
the one before him was only good for some, and 
they killed him. ' ' 

When Marjorie told him of what Gionne said, 
his Majesty smiled grimly and said it was rather 
a primitive way of settling matters. 

The crack of Gionne 's whip resounded like a 
pistol shot as he rattled over the streets — hav- 
ing no rubber tires to the wheels ; in fact, they 
did not see any cabs to hire with rubber tires. 
The whip is long and limber, like that of a coun- 
try ox-driver in the United States. The coach- 
man whirls it overhead, and the louder it pops 
the happier he is. Those on the back seat 
thought their eyes in danger at first, but when 
they observed how skilfully the whip was 
wielded they did not demur, unless one or more 
of the party was feeling worn out, when they 
would request him not to make quite so much 
noise. In Florence the pop is pretty loud, in 
Rome very loud, and in Naples almost unbear- 
able. The noise the coachman makes in a 
crowded part telling the rabble to clear out is 



234 TFhat Marjorie Saiv Abroad 

grating on a tired traveler's nerves. Naples has 
the name of being the noisiest city in the world. 

Looking from the boulevard fronting the 
Grand Hotel the Bay of Naples seems almost a 
circle^ the Isle of Capri in the distance and a few 
projections on either side assisting in the de- 
lusion. 

Smoking Vesuvius and a part of Naples, in- 
cluding Fortress Uova on one side, Naples cir- 
cling around the water's edge on the other, with 
a view of promontories above and high cliffs 
behind, capped by the old castle of St. Elmo, 
are what the world has always thought^ — a 
dream of loveliness. Our travelers had heard 
before leaving Florence that Vesuvius was mak- 
ing marked demonstrations, and almost feared 
going to Naples at such a time ; but, in alluding 
to it behind the coachman, he laughed and said 
there were only a little ashes and a few cinders 
flying around at the time, and spoke quite con- 
temptuously of it for not doing better after so 
long a time. Thus one gets hardened to the pres- 
ence of danger from day to day. They were 
truly glad Vesuvius was on its good behavior, 
for they would have returned home another way, 
and missed the pleasant experience here, if it 
had not been. 

Like Eome, Naples has many beautiful *^ cen- 
terpieces," Marjorie called them — groups of 
statuary in the parks, in the piazzas, and in the 
fountains. The gates of the Royal Palace gar- 
den, which one passes often driving through the 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 235 

city, are beautifully adorned with the pieces 
called ^'The Horse Tamers." The park along 
the boulevard (Via Caracciolo) mentioned be- 
fore, and skirting the bay, begins in the neigh- 
borhood of the Grand Hotel (where the party 
stayed), and is luxuriant with palm trees, great 
big things which stay out of doors all the year 
'round; elegant individual statues posing in 
every direction; a saddle-path, a carriage-way 
on either side ; foot-paths running devious ways, 
with much charming tropical-looking growth 
and a ^'centerpiece.'' 

The drives here leading into the heart of the 
city have piazzas adorned with groups and foun- 
tains that are wonderful by reason of their num- 
ber and size. Other drives lead through groves 
of immense fig trees, great stretches of olive 
trees, and the curious-looking cacti holding out 
their uncouth leaves like hands in every direc- 
tion, sometimes hanging over terraces and sit- 
ting in yards, and making themselves generally 
conspicuous, for they are very clumsy and gro- 
tesque. 

Catching fish seems to be quite a traffic on 
Via Caracciolo. Going along the sidewalk, Mar- 
jorie and the others noticed rough men fishing 
and attending to long nets for snaring fish. She 
had noticed small fish, broiled, were sometimes 
served at table in the Italian cities, which she 
considered very palatable, and supposed they 
were sardines. The printed bill-of-fare has such 
extraordinary names, especially those in a for- 



236 JVhat Marjorie Saw Abroad 

eign tongue, one does not always know what one 
is eating. One has just a suspicion of what it 
may be. 

Pumpkin flowers are fried in olive oil, which 
the Princess thought delicious; young pump- 
kins, smaller than your fist, are cut up and pre- 
pared as a dainty, but they were not exactly to 
the party's taste. 

The market vendors display their vegetables 
in a very pretty manner. You see a little mule 
coming along with a great assortment on its 
back, and sticking out at the sides in great bas- 
kets, a man walking along behind. The ripe, 
yellow pumpkins are sliced and put here and 
there, mixed with greens; red and green pep- 
pers are laid showily together, the light salads 
between, and other vegetables mingled where 
they will look most inviting. 

Driving along through the city, the Countess 
wanted to know of Gionne what ''those things" 
were, hanging out of every window she saw, in 
nets. ''Oh, they are melons hung out there to 
ripen, and they are nice, ' ' he said. The people 
of Naples are very fond of melons. 

The onion boy, humble though he be, is worthy 
of description. His bare feet, which no doubt 
never know shoes, as shoes are not really needed 
here, are dark with the dust of ages ; his green 
trousers fit loosely, as though made for some 
one else; his white shirt, unbuttoned, discloses 
a yellow neck; the pink vest perhaps showing 
from a greenish-brown coat (also made for an- 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 237 

other, which the folds indicate) ; the tattered 
hat thrown back as he lifts his head to halloo 
'^Onions!" in Italian. The onions are plaited 
together so they show off to advantage, glisten- 
ing in the light like pearls in the rough, and 
slung over the arm and shoulder of this happy- 
looking ragamuffin. Another boy may have on 
brown trousers, a green vest showing white 
sleeves, a fancy kerchief around his neck, and 
a_green cap, with only an armful of onions. 

At the Grand Hotel the windows open to the 
floor onto a balcony outside with stout railing. 
The building goes around a glass-covered court, 
which forms the entrance hall, crowded with 
large palms, chairs, rugs, tables — all very beau- 
tiful and comfortable. Windows look down 
from inner rooms. In this great hall the tour- 
ists assemble for dinner, or sit afterward and 
listen to the string-band players, who invariably 
hand around a hat when they finish. The din- 
ing-room runs back of this from side to side. 

Some very swell turnouts pass in the after- 
noon over the carriage-way skirting the bay, and 
it is refreshing to sit outdoors on a bench in the 
little palm plot belonging to the hotel, and gar- 
nished with flowers, to watch them go by, or 
read and rest and chat about the day's adven- 
tures. 

The Aquarium, not far from the other end of 
the Park (called Villa Nationale), adjoining the 
Grand Hotel, is one of the most interesting and 
scientifically carried on in the world. The 



238 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

United States and all the European countries 
are interested in it. Scientists, attendants, 
yachts, boats, and all things necessary for its 
progress and usefulness are supplied for its 
management. It is in a covered building. Around 
the four walls and in the center are compart- 
ments with glass facings ; light let in from some 
part shows the different inhabitants of the seas, 
flirting about in clear water. The seaweed and 
coral in some are so artistically distributed they 
resemble miniature gardens with flowers and 
trees surrounding castles or villas. A tap on a 
glass shows wonders. What seems to be a white 
flower with long petals or leaves of a miniature 
palm tree will gradually draw itself in and dis- 
appear within the brown stem, which divulges 
the secret that the flower, or palm leaves, is an 
animal and the stem a piece of coral. A fish 
with a beautiful eye will turn his other side and 
you will find he belongs to a species which has 
only one. 

Where the corals grow is an interesting fea- 
ture, but Marjorie thought where they were 
made into things to wear was better. His Maj- 
esty procured her enough to last a lifetime, and 
she bought enough tortoise-shell combs to last 
her many years. One very light in color the 
storekeeper explained to her was very rare, be- 
cause it was made from the under part of a cer- 
tain kind of turtle. Marjorie took it for a 
Christmas present from his Majesty, though 
Christmas was very far off, and he knew from 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 239 

former demonstrations another gift would be 
acceptable at that time. 

The Tomb of Virgil (died 19 B.C.) was a high 
climb, and his Majesty protested, also Gionne, 
the day was so warm. True, Gionne was not 
obliged to go up, but his egotism made him feel 
indispensible. But the ladies said they would 
never forgive themselves if they did not see 
Virgil's tomb. As they made the ascent, Gionne, 
who' left his horse to guide them, picked figs 
from the trees on the country patches bordering 
the walk, and Marjorie ate one from the tree 
overshadowing the tomb, plucking an olive 
branch from another tree, as well as ivy from 
the vault itself. They ambled down again, but 
not more lively than they went up — it was so 
steep. 

One of the side streets in Naples is so steep 
it has to be ascended by steps like the one men- 
tioned at Bellagio, and the whole street is a 
flight of broad steps. Flowers and merchandise 
of many. kinds are sold here. The windows of 
the bordering houses are adorned with flowered 
balconies. The week's washing hanging out in 
gay colors, and crowds of picturesque Italians 
moving about below, enliven the place. 

The drive to St. Elmo is a long, pleasant one, 
giving a fine view of the bay, winding around 
everything, it seemed, till one reached the top 
of the heights, giving a variety of scenes, rural 
and otherwise, in a comparatively short time. 

The trip to the Blue Grotto at the Isle of 



240 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

Capri is a long, rough one for those who are not 
partial to the sea, but it is "the thing to do.'' 
It takes the day, and most of it on the sea. So 
one bright morning our rovers left the hotel in 
a cab, driving past Castello dell' Ovo, or the 
Castle of an J^gg, because it was thought to be 
that shape, or was that shape at one time — the 
Italians have such vivid imaginations — to the 
wharf for Capri. The castle is quite conspic- 
uous, lying out in the sea on a sort of peninsula, 
and is a fortress or army station. 

They set off in skiffs, rowed by natives, which 
took them over a chopping sea, some distance, 
to a large boat or steamer anchored off the 
coast. While waiting for other passengers — 
for the party had arrived a little early — those 
already there were entertained by natives in 
bathing costumes, who must be akin to water 
nymphs, for they loitered around the ship nearly 
an hour, showing off their swimming feats and 
begging for coin. When one was thrown over- 
board in their direction all scrambled for it ; but 
one of them quickly settled the matter by diving 
at once in the right spot, and, grabbing it up 
between his toes, exhibited it by lifting the foot 
in the air, then dexterously whipping it out and 
chucking it in his cheek, which was his purse. 
One fellow had a cheekful, and almost another, 
when the boat started off. 

For some hours the boat heaved up and down 
on the water as it plunged along, passing some 
towns on the cliffs, Pompeii and Herculaneum 



What Marjorie Satv Abroad 241 

among them. Capri is by no means as near to 
Naples as it seems. After much impatience 
from the travelers over the long, slow trip, the 
boat cast anchor again, and the passengers — 
two only in a skiff, which they got into by a 
ladder at the side of the big boat, went toward 
the precipitous shore and darted through a hole 
just large enough for the boat to slip into, with 
the passengers lying flat, or nearly so, on the 
bottom. The oarsman makes ready for this, 
throwing his oars in the bottom of the skiff as 
he approaches the entrance, and quickly catch- 
ing a chain running inside, draws the skiff in, 
after motioning to the other occupants when to 
lie down ; then he resumes the oars. 

His Majesty said he was afraid all the time 
the Countess would cry ''stop" when tliey 
reached the entrance, but she had gone too far 
over an uneven sea to turn back. She had no 
idea of it — the excitement of it was grand, she 
said. 

Within, there is an exquisite blue light, such 
as one sees in a glacier, only more beautiful. 
The cave is wide and long, and arched like a 
cathedral, somewhat. After paddling around 
in this weird, beautiful place, in which the water 
shimmers like silver if one picks it up, in which 
the light from one small entrance is reflected 
back and forth, hither and thither, from the ir- 
regularities, till it seems to have the moon in 
there, they returned to the ship. 

The boat ploughed along some more, and 



242 What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 

finally reached land, or near by it, when the pas- 
sengers were again put off in little boats to go 
ashore and get lunch at a hotel literally hanging 
on the cliffs ; but it was very pretty and pleas- 
ant. As usual, vendors came around and pes- 
tered the tourists — while they were eating — into 
fidgets, begging them to buy cheap corals ; espe- 
cially a very foreign-looking woman with broad 
yellow rings as large as an American dollar 
hanging in her ears. His Majesty bought some 
of her ware to be rid of her. Then he finished 
his meal in peace. 

The Isle of Capri was once the favored spot 
of great people in the days of the emperors. 
Augustus and Tiberius loved it and did some- 
thing to improve it. It has so many qualifica- 
tions — the air, the height, the healthfulness have 
made it for many years a summer place for for- 
eigners as well as the home people. 

From Naples it is an hour's run on the steam- 
cars to Pompeii. On the way are tropical gar- 
dens, up hill and down dale, and old towns strag- 
gling along as though any of them might be a 
part of Jerusalem, they are so odd and quaint. 

Back of Portici, one of the towns on the road 
beyond Pompeii, is Resina, near which place the 
vineyards on Vesuvius flourish so wonderfully 
and furnish the material for the renowned La- 
crimss Christi wine. 

The trip up Vesuvius was deemed too hazar- 
dous by the party, who said they had satisfied 
their curiosity on that score by seeing it on the 
stage. 



CHxYPTER XVIII 

At new Pompeii there is only the station, 
Cook's office, and some hotels. A pleasant walk 
from the station one enters the city of ancient 
Pompeii. 

The broad way goes up a hill over a good 
road, between terraces bordered with flowers, 
shrubs and trees, so cheerful one never feels as 
if one were about to enter a dead city. Pretty, 
wide steps lead around the terraces, and there 
is no need of the chairs with which natives fol- 
low to the city door what they hope are weary 
travelers. 

Entering the ruins through this doorway 
(porta Marina), they found themselves not in 
darkness, nor artificial light, but broad day, 
for after going through a covered hall or two of 
the Museum there are no roofs. The whole is 
very pleasing, not to say cheerful, and one can 
walk for hours without abatedinterest,and there 
are many loose stones one can sit on to rest. 

There are remains of elegant homes, theaters, 
temples, fora, baths — hot and cold, with stone 
compartments in some for the bathers' clothes 
— and streets with deep wheel-ruts worn in the 
cobbled pavement. In the dwelling one enters 

243 



244 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

a vestibule, then an open court with covered 
porch around it, which the bedrooms (tiny 
things) dining-room and kitchen surround. 
There are no windows, only little gratings at 
times. The rooms do not seem to have had 
doors, as there is no evidence of hinges or the 
like. 

Rich hangings must have been used, which 
would be quite in keeping with the lovely fres- 
coed walls in some. Mosaic floors still show 
their pristine beauty. Marjorie remembered 
one fresco, in a vestibule, of a boar fighting two 
dogs near a tree. There are marble pillars, 
some of them now broken off more or less, but 
still having an elegant air, around the spacious 
court containing statuary which even yet holds 
its own. The best has been taken away in some 
instances and replaced by copies. Eemains of 
narrow stairs indicate a second story. In some 
of the courts flowers are planted to show how 
the places might have appeared in their prime. 
Here there are fountains which have long ceased 
to flow, but one sees pipes which explain their 
presence showing through the broken walls, and 
there are deep round wells about a foot and a 
half in diameter, encircled by stone a foot or so 
high, to hold rain-water for daily use, perhaps. 
Here the family spent their time when at home. 
It was cheerful and light with its open roof, and 
what needed they with large sleeping apart- 
ments when they lived in the courts and could 
bathe at public baths, though respectable ma- 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 245 

irons did not use the public baths. No doubt 
there were private ones to gratify the exclusive. 

Marjorie was so pleased with the courts she 
wanted his Majesty to build their home over 
again, around a court ; but he said courts were 
for very warm climates, according to his notion, 
and for those who had no glass to furnish win- 
dows to their rooms, and who lived in such dan- 
gerous times that no windows were safest. Glass 
was known, but not generally used for windows. 
Some of the houses have the names of the own- 
ers on them, and some of the streets have the 
name and number at the corner; trees grow in 
the squares, and it seems very pathetic to view 
a lovely garden and verdure with only ruins 
about. 

Marjorie read ^'The house of Cornelia Eu- 
f us ' ' on the outside of one door entered directly 
from the street; also '^Casa del Poeta Tragico" 
(house of tragic poet) on another. The latter 
is said to be the house of Glaucus, the hero of 
^'The Last Days of Pompeii.'' 

Domus vetiorum is perhaps the handsomest 
place. The frescoes are very well preserved and 
truly interesting — Cupids doing everything un- 
der the sun. The flowers grow; the fountains 
are adorned with figures; the fluted pillared 
court is here ; the walls around the open rooms 
giving out that rich, oriental cast evolved from 
the happy mingling of terra-cotta and delicate 
blues or grays. Vases, statues and household 



246 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

arrang-ements tell the fasliion of that day. A 
tiny kitchen showing a marble biscuit board and 
bake-oven appears somewhere, and grinding 
mills of stone, with large oven, indicate a bak- 
ery in another street; a number of large, flat 
stone jars, presumably for oil or water, are still 
seen, some imbedded in earth in a little square 
room just where they were, perhaps, when the 
great calamity overtook the city. There are no 
gardens in front of the houses, only a door in a 
wall leading from a narrow sidewalk. Some- 
times a small, low pair of steps give access to 
the door. The court supplies the garden and 
living-room. The theaters indicate the taste of 
the day, one holding about fifteen hundred, the 
other over three times as many — the seats of 
stone going around in a sort of amphitheater 
and well tiered, which precludes the idea of 
ladies having to appear bareheaded. Near the 
two is a pillared gallery, not unlike that at the 
Colosseum, but, of course, much smaller, and 
supposedly for the gladiators' use. There are 
chambers for priests and altars for sacrificing 
in the enclosure, where it was supposed by the 
believing there was an oracle — the guide said — 
in the Temple of Isis (wife of Osiris, an E^p- 
tion god) , which temple has a little figure of the 
goddess in a niche on one side, and Venus in a 
niche on the other side. The first recalled to 
Marjorie the beautiful song of W. H. Lytle, in 
her grandmother's music book, which tells so 
much history between the lines, so much of tho 



What Marjorie Satv Abroad 247 

heart's longing — Antony's last words to Cleo- 
patra : 

''I am dying, Egypt, dying! 
Isis and Osiris guard thee — 
Cleopatra, Rome, farewell!" 

She sees Cleopatra coming down the Cydnus, 
a small river in Asia Minor, to meet Antony, 
who has sent her a message, in the haughtiness 
of his military prowess, to render an account of 
herself, which she answers in person. In her 
barge she comes, in royal attire, her diaphanous, 
clinging robes displaying her lithe and queenly 
form; the crown has no jewel more dazzhng 
than her eye ; the voluptuous mouth softens the 
aquiline nose ; the broad head is toned by a brow 
of that intellectual type which gives a rare and 
lofty stamp to any countenance ; the wavy hair 
lends lightness to the strength ; long lashes veil 
the eyes and screen the sparkling fury of their 
depths. 

She is past thirty, but this fact all the more 
assures her charm. Down the Cydnus, with 
maidens seemingly afloat and garlands in their 
hands, she seated in the luxury of the day, while 
other maidens hold the fan of peacock feathers 
to cool this sorceress of the Nile, or vshield her 
from the sun. Gorgeous attendants follow. Rep- 
artee comes gaily from the merry lips, and 
Antony forgets Rome, Fulvia and home for 
many moons. For political reasons he returns 
and marries Octavia. He divorces Octavia, The 



248 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

battle of Actium takes place in or near the Adri- 
atic, 31 B.C., between himself and Egypt ^s 
Queen on one side and Octavius (later Augnstns 
Caesar) on the other. She, getting frightened 
as the battle rages, flees; he follows through 
mistaken command. After meeting again for 
a time other vicissitudes follow; he hears she 
is dead and falls on his sword. Then she makes 
'way with herself to avoid enriching Caesar's 
triumph. Antony evidently expects her to 
lighten the way for him in hades ; and even if 
Jove or Osiris command, he wishes not to leave 
her, such is her influence; she loves him, he 
thinks, which is more than all the gods can give. 

^^Ah," thought Marjorie, with a sigh, ^4f 
they both had lived later and met earlier, and 
only known the Christ! Perhaps they know 
Him now; perhaps He pities and forgives. It 
is hard for poor, blind humanity to know the 
way, and love seems the onli/ way to unbridled 
natures like Antony's and hers." 

With what were called temples around it, the 
ruined Forum at Pompeii stands. Apart from 
it the triangular-shaped Forum has only pillars 
remaining, and stone lying around, but there is 
an imposing air, as of former grandeur, in both, 
and many thoughts come rushing through the 
brain of an intelligent man or woman concern- 
ing these unfortunate inhabitants. 

As to the public baths, they testify to the 
cleanliness of the people^ being of considerable 
size, some of the rooms having double walls, 



What Marjorie Satv Abroad 249 

into which hot water was let for a steam bath, 
which usually began the process of cleansing; 
afterward, hot water, then a plunge in cold, 
very much like what is now commonly called a 
Turkish bath. It is hard to imagine the effect 
of such a bath on one taken every day, though 
some took them often. These baths were as 
handsome as the homes, the mosaic floors bear- 
ing witness to some very pretty work, as well 
as mural decorations. The new baths (not com- 
pleted in 79 A.D., when the eruption of Vesuvius 
destroyed the city) were to have had windows. 
Strange to relate, the street or road outside the 
Herculaneum gate, which led to the city, and 
called the Street of the Tombs, is very charm- 

The cobbled streets, the curbstones on the 
sidewalk, with light-green turf or moss peeping 
through the joinings ; the ruined tombs still re- 
taining artistic contours and shades; the slen- 
der trees towering up here and there — it seems 
a place to live, a place to breathe, to feast the 
eyes ; not for long- forgotten, doubly dead, inas- 
much as there are none left to mourn except in 
charity — not for departed souls alone to wan- 
der, and it was a happy day when these beauties 
were laid bare to the living world. 

In several rooms, arranged for the purpose, 
at the door of the doomed city, are glass cases 
showing many articles found during the excava- 
tions — among them petrified people, a dog, a 
few eggs, and other edibles in good shape, Thes 



250 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

ampliitlieater is some distance from tlie town 
proper and could hold twenty thousand people. 

Excavations began formally at Pompeii in 
about 1755, and received considerable impetus 
from the French in 1806. They have been grad- 
ually going on until quite one-half is uncovered, 
and excavation is still in progress. It was a 
prosperous city of about twenty-five thousand 
inhabitants, and was known three hundred years 
before the Christian era, but its walls and hand- 
some ruins of a Greek temple in Doric style of 
the sixth century B.C. give signs of earlier date. 
The inhabitants had much of the Greek element, 
having sprung from a tribe called Oscans — the 
first settlers. This element was soon Eoman- 
ized when that nation began to absorb others, 
and it among them. 

The city was two miles in circumference and 
was surrounded by a wall. Towers seem to 
have been added after the wall was built. It 
seems to have been a place of villas for the rich 
from larger cities. Cicero (born 106 B.C.) men- 
tions his villa in his letters. The business part 
of the city is denoted by stores, which have nice 
residences immediately behind them — as the 
Germans often do in the United States — though 
it is not known that the stores belonged to the 
houses; they are not connected in many in- 
stances. Some had stairs leading to rooms 
above, and it is thought the man who owned the 
house at the back took this means of disposin^^ 
of his produce, with the keeper ^bove. 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 251 

Marjorie thoiight the narrow stairs leading 
to the second floor in the homes must have been 
for "Bettie of the back stairs,'' and that the 
servants had their apartments above, which is 
probably true, as the excavations show that they 
were not by any means as well built as the rest 
of the edifice. The houses were seldom three 
stories, and were hastily built after the earth- 
quake in 63 A.D. His Majesty remarked that 
the large stepping-stones, though useful in rainy 
weather, must have been awkward for the pass- 
ing vehicles, the wheels of which he saw had 
made deep ruts in the cobbles. 

Many of the frescoes on the walls and portals 
show the need of the stern hand of Christian 
piety. The valuable Pompeiian and Hercula- 
neum antiquities are in the Museum in Naples, 
which every tourist can enter. 

More history has been given to the world by 
this sudden and peculiar destruction of the two 
cities than could ever have been gotten in any 
other way; and after one has been to either, 
though Pompeii has been more explored, one 
enjoys the more seeing these relics. It is a pity 
they cannot all be kept there, then one would 
feel indeed as if one had been face to face with 
79 A.D. 

Returning to Naples, the party remained long 
enough to visit the Museum, which has the finest 
collection in the world, and the theater of San 
Carlos, founded in 1737 — the largest in Italy. 



252 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

The last evening in Italy they did not think 
the earth conld be so fair. The full moon had 
risen over Vesuvius ; the sun was setting oppo- 
site in a billow of glory, tinging the wealth of 
clouds hanging around the peak with gold, ame- 
thyst and Naples coral — all reflected in the calm 
sapphire waters, with the glow as of concealed 
lights beneath; Capri's rugged blue heights 
plainly visible in the radiant light, as well as 
the coast along the bay ; the blush on the clouds 
as sweet o'er the water as rose petals in the 
dew; and the ocean's distant wave; the yellow 
villas with pink or red ones intermingled on the 
shore, and the hills beyond, set in evergreen; 
St. Elmo and Castello dell' Ovo showing con- 
spicuously their stern outlines, the one above, 
the other below. 

'^Farewell, beautiful Italy, farewell," said 
Marjorie, as she kissed her hand to the receding 
shore. ^^ Peace be within thy walls and plen- 
teousness in thy palaces !" 

The Princess was to remain in Italy for the 
w^inter, with some friends, and begged Marjorie 
to remain with her ; but, while the idea was de- 
lightful, she felt that the best part of her world 
would not be with her. She left reluctantly, 
however, and wished his Majesty and the Count- 
ess would stay; but he said he wanted to return 
and see how his business was getting on. The 
Countess said she wondered if her house was 
still standing, and thought she had better follow 
Ms Majesty, which was but natural. 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 253 

Starting one evening, the sea was very rough 
by next day, and continued so for about twelve 
hours, in which time some of the passengers 
were laid low with mal de mer. In a day or so 
all were well again and were up early to see 
Gibraltar. 

They had seen the lighthouse on the Isle of 
Sardinia in passing; now Spain loomed up in 
turn, to keep them en rapport with the world, 
and they did not feel so much adrift. 

Our tourists wanted to stop at least two weeks 
in Spain, but Cook's office informed them that 
the rush for staterooms was so great it could 
not guarantee them berths unless they had two 
fares each from Naples to Gibraltar. They were 
sorry they had not gone there by rail from 
Paris. 

Ships leave every two weeks, and are smaller 
than those on the northern line, and one has to 
pick and choose more than on the upper lines, 
in order to be comparatively comfortable. From 
Gibraltar a nice trip can be taken to the Alham- 
bra in a few days, and one over to Morocco in 
the same length of time, and leave a margin for 
other places and catch the next ship without 
paying two fares, if not too late in the season. 
Much to his Majesty's surprise — the others had 
not thought much about it — Gibraltar turned 
her lower side toward Africa, the ocean and the 
Mediterranean. The great rock that we all know 
so well from the picture is at the other end, and 
in an extensive circular bay and facing Spain. 



254 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

It is pierced all over with holes for cannon, and 
the way leading to them is tunneled out of the 
rock. Only think of the work! The place has 
indeed a martial air. 

The passengers were at liberty to spend the 
greater part of the day on shore, the ship stand- 
ing in the harbor for hours. Our set of excur- 
sionists drove over the city, got Spanish lace, 
Spanish fans, and great baskets (with long han- 
dles they could swing over the arm and carry 
easily) filled with pomegranates, oranges 
and Malaga grapes. Marjorie remembered the 
game she used to play, ' ' Malaga grapes are very 
good grapes, but grapes from Smyrna are bet- 
ter.'^ She looked at the long, wide, luscious 
bunches, and wondered how they could be better 
as she fell to eating them. 

The city is very precipitous, and very foreign, 
but the many English signs over stores and ho- 
tels make one feel at home, in a measure. The 
Moors hovered around, their dark skins, flowing 
or loose garments, and white turbans, wringing 
wet around their craniums — Marjorie said to 
keep them cool, she supposed — ^harmonizing 
with one's idea of the native inhabitants. It 
was pretty warm, and the large Spanish fans 
came in play. 

The vendors clung to the tender which carried 
the passengers back to the ship to the last min- 
ute, and when the ship was reached a man was 
found up there selling a variety of useless 
trumpery, which those who did not get off 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 255 

bought as souvenirs. Our tourists concluded, 
however, they had enough. 

Leaving Gibraltar, the coast of Spain and 
Africa were clearly visible for several hours. 
It was like running between the banks of a wide 
river — Africa high and rocky, Spain the same. 

About this time the moon was rising, early 
enough for one to see its beauty without actually 
sitting up for it. The lines 

^'Soft o'er the fountain lingering falls the 
southern moon. 
Far o'er the mountain breaks the day, too 
soon,'' 

truly applied here. 

Let the fountain be the southern waters, a 
vast expanse of them; let the mountains be the 
billows following one another in long, broken 
lengths, touched by the moon's softening, sil- 
very rays — sleep flees from one ; strange scenes 
flit by in open-eyed dreams; Spanish men and 
women '^witli dark eyes splendor" people the 
laughing glades ; the orange and the myrtle, in 
luxuriant growth, throw out a delicious, subtle 
presence ; one ascends the heights ; the turbaned 
Moors take their characteristic shape ; the earth 
seems like a song of delight ; the moon not only 
lingers, it hovers, it embraces, it clings, it 
breathes a magnetic glow. At last the Alham- 
bra looms in sight; the Pomegranate Gate is 
reached ; the marble flowers smile upon one ; the 



256 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

grinning fruit showing its pretty teeth, telling 
the tale that it is ready to pluck. One enters the 
walled and towered enclosure; one hears the 
nightingale's song, the fountains' purling drops, 
sees their shimmer; then the pillars of Charles 
V appear; the Gate of Judgment; the Watch 
Tower, on which the Christian flag was raised 
in 1492. One sees Granada far below, with its 
hundred churches ; looking up, white houses on 
the cliffs set with emerald shrubbery; the palace 
of Charles V, in Eenaissance style, in ruins al- 
most; beyond, the Moorish palace, the subject 
of so much that is beautiful from the pen of 
gifted authors. 

Unpretentious without, by way of contrast to 
the interior — after a fashion of their own — the 
inner part is a feast for the eye and for the soul. 
Eed, blue and yellow are artistically, delicately 
and harmoniously combined; marble columns, 
embellished ceilings, golden partitions (fragile- 
looking and gracefully curved), silken hangings, 
soft couches — all for the Caliph of Granada. 
The Lyon Court is paved with colored marble; 
the columns are white^ — over one hundred in 
number — a pavilion at either end, with open- 
work screens, domed, and handsomely adorned. 
In the center is the fountain basin upheld by 
twelve strong lions in white marble, the water 
shooting up through their mouths. AH too soon 
the day breaks over the mountains in the form 
of the steward, putting away the rugs and pil- 
lows for the night. One retires with a sigh. 



What Marjorie Saw Abroad 257 

In a few days the Azores were reached — all 
rocky and rough. One clear evening they saw 
the sun set on the ocean. When it goes nearly 
do^\ai the great flaming ball drops suddenly in 
the water as though it had been shot out of a 
cannon. About sunset, if there are any clouds, 
they are rich in the extreme: first gold, then 
amethyst, then crimson; changing from what 
seems to be a golden stairs to a garden of trees, 
lakes and shrubbery, in a flood of yellow day- 
light, to the purple haze of twilight, where some 
white light still lingers, then as though the whole 
had caught fire, or ignited simultaneously at dif- 
ferent places, from a flame-like torch of nature, 
until one-half the globe is enveloped in vast zig- 
zags, or streams of gorgeous red, curling up- 
ward in spirals till they almost meet in the 
zenith. 

Leaving the Azores a storm came up; high 
waves dashed from one end to the other of the 
staunch little ship, which went sailing along, 
determined to make time. It heaved and rocked 
and groaned; all the passengers were ill, even 
the fourteen physicians on board. Marjorie 
said she felt as if a big giant had her in a sling 
and was twirling her round and round his head 
for fun. The ring — the amethyst ring, the 
birthday ring — it was a fraud; no more would 
she wear it ; plain little thing it was, when she 
had a lovely diamond she might have worn in 
its place instead. No more amethysts for her ! 
She would not believe in birthday rings unless 



258 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

they were rubies, diamonds and emeralds. She 
had no fear — ^none but disgust at being so ill. 
It was as much as the stewardesses could do to 
attend to every one. There were three of these, 
being nice German women who spoke English. 
The mighty power of the turbulent ocean is un- 
knoAvn till one feels it. The steamer trunks, the 
valises, the hand-bags waltzed all over the little 
rooms; small articles rattled in their stands; 
the doors banged; the water sprayed through 
the portholes until the man came along and 
made them all secure, and one had to hold on 
to the bed railing to keep from being shaken like 
pepper in a pepper-pot. 

Landing in New York at the appointed time, 
the party, less the Princess, did not by any 
means escape the custom-house officers. They 
had to pay heavy toll before passing through 
the exit gate. The duty on dresses was not 
much, but that on small trinkets and trifles 
seemed exorbitant. The Countess said they 
could easily have done away with the duty on 
the dresses, for they were made in Paris in the 
early part of the tour, and could have been half 
worn out by the time they took the ship at Na- 
ples ; but they had heard that one was allowed 
so much, and his Majesty said keep them fresh 
and pretty for home and he would willingly pay 
the little extra. 

And as to the jewelry, the party had been 
wearing this for some time, having gotten it all 
along and dressing liandsomely in the evenings. 



What Marjorie Sato Abroad 259 

The Countess was sorry she had not thrown the 
pretty boxes into the ocean, which told the tale. 
These she thought they must have charged for. 
Next time she said she would. The Countess 
did not wish to cheat the Government; she was 
willing to pay for the dresses because she had 
not worn them, but the exorbitant price paid 
for the privilege of wearing a few foreign trin- 
kets she thought outrageous, and it made her 
bitter for once. 

His Majesty in his inherent pride, which Mar- 
jorie confessed later she thought ^'overdone'' 
at the time, was too great for remonstrance, and 
Uncle Sam pocketed what she considered ill- 
gotten gains. 

As to the Countess, she made it a point never 
to hurt what she called ^^his noble characteris- 
tics ' ' — it was too much like stealing a treasure, 
or breaking a charm from a handsome ornament 
and marring the whole to get an atom. 

Abroad one goes from one country to another 
without the slightest trouble in regard to duty, 
which the Countess took the pains to inform 
what she considered her persecutors, and Mar- 
jorie thought they must be so sore from her 
bright sarcasms, she pitied the families they 
had to go home to in that frame of mind — ^but 
she thought the men deserved it. 

Americans seem to be at par in Europe. So 
much is done for their comfort and pleasure, no 
wonder they like to go there ; and to be squeezed 



260 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

legitimately by one's own country was disgust- 
ing, the Countess said. 

The party read in an English periodical that 
the American people had shown its superiority 
to themselves (the English) in taking their 
trade away from them, then going over and 
showing their capitalists what they had failed 
to show their own people. The Countess thought 
the English could teach Americans politeness. 

As to scenery, nothing with us is quite as high 
as the Swiss Alps ; but they seem squeezed up, 
so to speak, in a smaller space, and there is no 
one entire snow-covered mountain set apart like 
Shasta, in Washington State; no very great 
streams rushing past; no such great stretches 
of country — the vastness of it by contrast is as 
great as the height in the old country. 

In modesty, progress and home comforts the 
United States is superior, according to our trav- 
elers ' way of thinking. They did not taste hot 
biscuit once during their European travels, 
which seems a small matter ; but, if you stop to 
think of it, a good hot biscuit (which a Southern 
darky makes best), with butter, and a really 
fresh cup of fine gunpowder tea (which they could 
not find in their travels) tones up the system for 
the time and helps to make one comfortable, 
which is next door to amiability and cheerful- 
ness — instead of strong black tea and rolls so 
hard you almost tear your nails trying to break 
them apart. 



What Marjorie Saiv Abroad 261 

But these privations do not count in compari- 
son to the wonders one sees, as long as one does 
not have- to live there always and spend a life 
without these little comforts which some bright 
person has said contribute greatly to one's en- 
joyment of life. 

The old country fills us with awe when we 
know the age of things ; when one sees ancient 
names and articles made somewhere nearer the 
time of Adam than one's own, and on some of 
which time has laid a gentle hand. The history, 
the preservation of it all, makes one rejoice for 
having been among them; but for whole life, 
real life, for freedom and all life holds dear, his 
Majesty said give him America every time. 

He told the foreigners whom he met so much 
about America, all he talked to were burning to 
come over. 

When the party reached home, strange to say, 
in that intelligent and appreciative community, 
they were a several months ' wonder. They said 
his Majesty and the Countess looked ten years 
younger and that Marjorie had grown taller and 
more womanly. She had crossed the line where 
the ^^ brook and river meet.'' 

Marjorie had a stream of friends of her own 
age all the visiting hours of the day coming to 
look at her ^Hruck," as she called her foreign 
things, and not one was forgotten in the way of 
souvenirs as long as there was one left. She 
possibly inherited her love of giving from his 



262 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

Majesty. He came in at times and said: ^^ Mar- 
jorie, where is such and such a thing! I bought 
it for Henry. ' ' 

^^Why, I asked you to buy that for me, and 
I thought it was mine," returned she. Every 
day something like this went on for a month, 
until all the gifts were used up and encroach- 
ments were made on the reserve fund. Marjorie 
did not have near as many as she wanted — some 
old ladies that she loved, her dressmaker, and 
her milliner ought to have one. The Countess 
made a few handsome gifts, and said she had 
much ado keeping his Majesty and Marjorie 
from disposing of everything new. 

The pictures the Countess gathered made 
quite a volume, and every literary club in the 
town sought information from them. She got 
her pictures so scattered she did not know what 
she had and what she had not. However, they 
were all her friends, and by the time she was 
ready to look at them herself, and had the lei- 
sure to think a little over what she had seen, 
they gradually came in. 

She found the house all dusty, after so many 
months' absence, and boarded while she super- 
intended the cleaning and until it was habitable. 
No sooner had she done this than the genius of 
the town came every day to get items to write 
up the trip. 

Altogether it was a very delightful trip, awak- 
ening the whole community and inspiring others 
to do likewise. 



What Marjorie Satv Abroad 263 

Mr. Duke had persuaded Ealph to show him 
around over the same ground he and Peter had 
been, so it was some months before their return 
to the United States. He said he wanted to go 
to Ireland again and ^ up that cousin a little 
better. 

Ealph had never said a word of love to Mar- 
jorie ; but he kneiv and she knew that he hoped. 
He had tried many times to tell his love, but in 
vain. He was afraid of the fatal word "no," 
and he was happy as they were ; at least, as much 
so as was allowable in consideration of his duty 
to his father — after that, we will not say what 
he hoped. 

In the spring came Mr. Duke and Ealph. 
Peter sent word he would be along later. 

At Naples Ealph had given his picture to 
Marjorie in a pretty bangle, and had asked her 
to wear it and not to forget him, rushing off 
without giving time for an answer, and at such 
a time when he would have to return only to bid 
a formal good-by. Ealph was by no means a 
bashful person; but Marjorie dazzled him — she 
restrained him in the doubt of so much loveli- 
ness ever becoming his very own. 

Mr. Duke was a great letter-writer, and cor- 
responded with his Majesty in the meantime. 
It was a hearty welcome which he and Ealph 
received on the threshold of ** Villa Colom- 
bo," which Marjorie, in a mirthful vein, had 
recently named the suburban home, in remem- 
brance of the pigeons in Venice — ^which also 



264 What Marjorie Saw Abroad 

infested her home — and after the fashion of 
homes in Italy. 

Up to this time the Princess's letters were 
full of Prince Leonori, and the family were 
gradually brought up to that pitch in which 
there was no surprise when she announced her 
coming marriage and sent the invitations. Mr. 
Duke sent the diamond necklace. Getting it out 
to make a neat package of it, he turned to Ealph 
and said : 

' ' I told you so, ' ' holding the necklace up for 
him to see; ^^but I'll get the Duchess" — ^mean- 
ing Marjorie — ^^a handsomer one." 

No doubt the turquoises and corals will be in 
Marjorie 's keeping, too, in the course of time, 
though Marjorie already has more than enough. 



THE END 






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